The Coolorburbians

May 082018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

Welcome once again to a new photo tutorial that my sister , Ana Maria , and I put together for you . Today’s written instructions follow the series of photo tutorials for the most basic crochet stitches which , if mastered , will allow you to experiment all sorts of other crochet stitches , from the simplest to more advanced and complicated stitches . Today we will show you how to crochet the half double crochet stitch . If you prefer video instructions instead , you can follow my old tutorial on my crochet channel on YouTube that you can find bellow .

The half double crochet stitch is a stitch between the single crochet stitch and the double crochet stitch . Practically it looks like an elongated single crochet stitch or like a reduced double crochet stitch . Even as a beginner crocheter , you should be already familiar with terms like loops and chains which will be used frequently throughout the pattern . Our photo tutorial will show you lots of illustrative images in order to give you sufficient visual support while you practice the written instructions .

How To Crochet The Half Double Crochet Stitch by coolorful.com

The half double crochet stitch is abbreviated as hdc in most patterns . YO is the abbreviation for yarn over hook .

Let’s begin learning this basic stitch on a smaller sample . While you practice this stitch and you feel more comfortable crocheting it , keeping your tension steady , you can commit yourself to a larger project . Let’s start with 10 hdcs at the moment . To get 10hdc on first row , chain 12 .

How To Crochet The Half Double Crochet Stitch by coolorful.com

Row 1 : Skip first 2ch from the hook ( these 2 chains count as the first hdc ) ; * YO once ( now you have two loops on the hook ) , insert your hook in the third chain from the hook , YO once and pull the yarn through the chain of the foundation chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO one last time and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook to complete your first hdc * ( see images bellow )

Let’s do a second hdc on first row . * YO once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in next chain of the foundation chain , YO once and pull the yarn through the foundation chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO one last time and pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook to complete a new hdc * . ( see next photos )

Continue working the next 7hdc following the instructions given between * and * . Don’t forget that the first 2ch we skipped at the beginning of the row count as a hdc . The following images will show you a repeat of the previous given steps and are meant to help you practice . They will also show you how to finish the first row . At the end of this row , chain 2 to turn ( these two chains also count as a hdc on 2nd row ) .

Row 2 : * Yo once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in the second hdc , bellow the two loops which are visible in the images , YO once and pull the yarn through the hdc ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO again and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook * .

Let’s repeat these steps to crochet a new hdc on second row . * YO once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in next chain , bellow the two loops at the top , YO once and pull the yarn through the chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO again and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook * .

Don’t forget that the beginning chain 2 counts as a first hdc on second row . So we have three hdc completed on second row . Now repeat the given instructions between * and * 6 more times , 9 hdc in total . See next images for visual help .

How To Crochet The Half Double Crochet Stitch by coolorful.com

To crochet the last hdc on second row you should do as follows : * YO once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in top of beginning chain , YO and pull the yarn through the chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO one last time and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook * . ( see next images )

That is about it with the half double crochet stitch . To continue your work , you need to repeat second row as many times as necessary . The next given photos will show you more completed rows of the hdc .

Notes :

1. I know that this stitch tends to turn really ugly on the sides because of the beginning chain 2 which is replacing a normal hdc at the beginning of a row . There are different techniques to add pretty edges when a project is nearly finished . I will compile an article with possible ways to add pretty edges in the future .

2. Also , many people ask for instructions on how to increase or decrease the hdc either on the sides or across a row . This is also going to be shown in a next article .

Happy learning , everyone ,
The Coolorburbians .

Apr 302018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

Glad to meet you once again for a catch up on my crochet blog . I’ve been abusing the crocodile stitch quite a lot lately to make baby blankets , pillow cases , shawls , hats , scarves and mittens . Up until the moment my inner voice whispered to me that I should give the shell stitch a try because it might surprise me at how easy it is to crochet it . And so I did and let me tell you that it was quite fun to relearn it . So here are the written instructions for this lovely stitch . They will include a slight modification in the pattern in comparison to the instructions shown in the video tutorial posted on my old YouTube Channel that you can find here .

I did so because I still find quite difficult to crochet a foundation chain and work a stitch across the foundation chain . What I did here was to add an extra row of single crochet stitches at the beginning for a more solid foundation . Let’s get started .

How to crochet the Shell Stitch by coolorful.com

Abbreviations :

ch – chain ;

sc – single crochet stitch ;

dc – double crochet stitch .

Level : beginner .

Usage : blankets , pillow cases , cardigans , sweaters , purses , etc.

Make a foundation chain from a multiple of 6 plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern . Crochet an extra row of sc across the foundation chain to make it more solid and give your item a nicer look .

Row 1 : Work 1sc in the first sc ; * skip next 2sc ; work 5dc in the next sc ; skip next 2sc ; 1sc in the next sc * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure that you end up the row with a sc in the last sc from previous row ; ch3 to turn ( counts as a dc here and throughout ) .

Row 2 : Work 2dc in the last sc from previous row ; * skip next 2dc ; 1sc in top of the third dc from the set of 5dc from previous row ; skip next 2dc ; 5dc in next sc * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; skip next 2dc ; 1sc in next dc ; skip next 2dc ; 3dc in last sc from previous row ; ch1 to turn .

Row 3 : Work 1sc in top of first dc from the set of 3dc from previous row ; * skip next 2dc ; 5dc in the next sc ; skip next 2dc ; 1sc in top of the third dc from the set of 5dc * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with 1sc in top of beg ch3 on the side from previous row ; ch3 to turn .

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern .

That is about all with the crochet shell stitch . Don’t forget to like and share this pattern if you found it helpful . Also , don’t forget to share images of your work on the Facebook page that my sister , Ana Maria , and I manage . You can find it in the sidebar .

Happy shell-ing , everyone !!

Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians)

Mar 232018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

The photo tutorial on how to crochet the single crochet stitch was originally published in late 2013 , but the written instructions were lost during the time spent in the hospital , when I did not renew the hosting for this website . So the photos have been pending and waiting in my old computer for more than 4 years for me to repost them . So what I will try to do is give the steps on how to crochet the single crochet stitch while my sister will try to synchronize the photos to my instructions .

The single crochet stitch is one of the basic stitches in the art of crocheting , along with the half double crochet stitch , the double crochet stitch , the triple crochet stitch , the slip stitch and obviously , the foundation chain . If you know these simple stitches , then you will know how to crochet many other stitches , fancier and more complicated patterns .

The Single Crochet Stitch Written Instructions

The single crochet stitch is abbreviated as sc in all crochet patterns . It is necessary that you also learn that the term “yarn over hook” is abbreviated as YO . Also note that the term “loop” will be used quite often . I remember showing all these loops and YOs extensively in the photos . To begin learning this stitch I recommend that you try it on a smaller swatch before committing yourself to a larger project . So let’s give the single crochet stitch a try .

There is a small particularity to this stitch . No matter the number of single crochet stitches you want to make on your first row , you will always need to add an extra chain to the foundation chain to complete your desired number of stitches . So if you want to have 20 sc on row 1 , then you will need to chain 21 chains for your foundation chain . But let’s try working 10 sc on a few rows together .

Therefore chain 11 , as seen in the image bellow .

The Single Crochet Stitch Written Instructions

Row 1 : There is already a loop on the hook which is visible in the photo; to crochet the first single crochet stitch , insert your hook in the very first chain of the foundation chain which is also called “first chain from the hook” ; YO once and pull the yarn through the chain of the foundation chain ; now you have two loops on your hook ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both loops on your hook ; that’s it , you just completed your first single crochet stitch . ( see images bellow )

Let’s crochet another stitch together : there is already a loop on your hook ; insert your hook in the next chain of the foundation chain ; YO once and pull the yarn through the chain of the foundation chain ; you have two loops on your hook ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on the hook to complete the second single crochet stitch on row 1 , as you can see in the images bellow .

Repeat the following steps to complete 10 sc in total on this first row : * insert hook in next chain of the foundation chain ; YO once and pull the yarn through the chain ; you have two loops on your hook now ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on your hook to complete another single crochet stitch * . At the end of this first row don’t forget to chain 1 to move on to the next row , which is a step that needs repeated here and throughout . ( see images bellow )

The first row was completed on the right side of the project , whereas the second one will be executed on the back side (also called the wrong side), so at this point you need to turn the project on the other side . Take a look at how the stitches look on row 1 . Notice that every stitch has two loops on top , one in front and the other on the back of your work , as you can see in the image bellow .

The Single Crochet Stitch Written Instructions

Row 2 : To crochet the first single crochet stitch on this row work as follows : there is already a loop on your hook from previous row ; insert your hook in the first sc from row 1 , bellow the two loops pointed out earlier ; YO once and pull the yarn through sc ; you have two loops on the hook now ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on the hook ; now you have a first sc on row 2 and a loop on the hook . ( see images bellow )

Let’s try again for a second sc : insert your hook in the next sc , bellow the two loops of the respective stitch ; YO once and pull the yarn through the sc , bellow the two loops ; now you have two loops on your hook ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on the hook to complete the second sc ; you now have one loop on your hook . ( see images bellow )

Repeat the steps written earlier to complete the whole set of 10 sc on row 2 . Take a look at the following photos to make sure you don’t lose track along the way , especially at the end of the row . At this point you surely should remember to crochet a chain at the end of this row which is necessary to move on to the next row . Lastly ,turn to the other side of the project , which is now the right side . ( see gallery bellow )

Guys , that’s about it with the single crochet stitch . From now on each row is only a repeat of the second row , which I am sure you already know how to crochet . But to make sure you have visual support in learning this basic stitch you can continue following the gallery bellow which shows a few more completed rows .

Alternatively , you can also take a look at my old video tutorial on my crochet YouTube channel that teaches you how to crochet the single crochet stitch in a few minutes .

I hope this helps . Don’t forget to like and share if you found my instructions useful .

Happy hooking , dear fellow crocheters,

Cătătlina (from The Coolorburbians)

Feb 272018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I am so glad you came across my new pattern that will show you how to crochet a combination of single crochet stitches , double crochet stitches , chain spaces and clusters . Please note that the following instructions do not teach you how to crochet an actual pattern for an item , but it will guide you in the usage of the cluster stitch in a pattern . It is up to you how and where you are going to use the following combination of stitches .

How to crochet a combination of single crochet, double crochet and cluster stitches

Level: intermediate.

Abbreviations and how to :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

YO – yarn over ;

cluster – combination of 3dc only partially completed , worked in the same space recommended in the instructions ; ( YO , insert hook in sp recommended , YO and pull out a loop , YO and pull a loop through first two loops on the hook , do not complete the double crochet as usual , two loops left on the hook ) X 3 times ; YO and pull out a loop through all 4 loops on the hook .

Work a loose foundation chain from a multiple of 6 chains , plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern .

Row 1 : Work 1sc in the 2nd ch of the foundation chain ; * skip next 2ch of the foundation chain ; work ( cluster , 3ch , cluster ) in the next ch of the foundation chain ; 1ch ; skip next 2ch of the foundation chain ; 1sc in the next ch of the foundation chain * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; ch4 ; turn .

Row 2 : Work 1dc in the last 1sc on the side from previous row ; * skip next set of ( cluster , 3ch , cluster ) ; in the next 1sc work a set of ( 1dc , 4ch , 1dc ) * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; work a set of ( 1dc , 1ch , 1dc ) in the 1sc on the side from previous row ; 1ch ; turn .

Row 3 : Work 1sc in the last 1dc on the side from previous row ; * in the next 1dc work a set of ( cluster , 3ch , cluster ))) ; 1ch ; 1sc in the next ch-4 sp from previous row * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1sc in the beg ch4 on the side ; 4ch ; turn .

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern .

That is all , dear friends . Please let me know how you used these instructions and post photos of your crocheted items on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar . Also you can try out our patterns in the many categories on our site . Thank you for sharing our work with other artsy people as well .

Happy hooking,
The Coolorburbians

Feb 222018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I decided to put together a few steps and instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to any type of shawl in a separate article rather then write them down in a pattern that can get lost in the dozens that I dream to write in the future . This is for a better management of this website . Also I believe that you will find my tips a lot easier while browsing around the instructions , articles and patterns . So let’s see how this is going to go .

Making the tassels and attaching them to a shawl or blanket is no longer my job now that I no longer see . Now it falls into my sister’s or mother’s attributions, who are of great help when it comes to such delicate issues , such as measuring , cutting , sewing and so on . I remember that making the tassels for a shawl wasn’t my favorite part in the crochet business even before the stroke . This is mostly because I was never able to get the tassels completely right . They were always too short and thick or far too long and thin . But crocheting over 50 shawls and 5 blankets in the last 2 years gave me , my sister and my mother the opportunity to find a formula to make these tassels to suit our taste . Please be advised that our taste may not be your taste at all . However , I am still writing a few tips if you wish to follow and learn from our experience .

Tips :

1. The most common issue you will face when making tassels is related to the amount of yarn you are going to use to finish them . Of course , this depends greatly on the type of shawl you would like to crochet . Is it long and large ? Is it smaller , similar to a scarf ? Here is where personal preferences take action . I absolutely love extra large shawls that you can wrap all around yourself , especially during chilly , cold evenings in spring or fall . Which is why I changed my taste to long and thick tassels as well , which require a lot more yarn and a bit of extra work too . Sure , I understand the purpose of small shawls and scarves as well, which I believe should have shorter tassels . Decide right at this instant whether you are going to crochet a small shawl or a large one .

2. With first step in mind , teach yourself to always buy an extra skein of yarn or even two when you decide to begin a large project . This was nearly always a fatal mistake I made when I wanted to crochet shawls . I often got stingy over a few extra bucks that could have gotten me the right amount of yarn to complete the shawl as I would have liked it in the first place . So don’t get stingy either and buy that extra skein just to be on the safe side . Don’t worry over the leftover yarn . You are going to use it in future projects , such as granny square blankets , baby items and so on .

3. In time , I discovered that I prefer making the tassels using a different type of yarn than the one I used to crochet the main part of the shawl , especially if the main yarn is thick , chunky or bulky . Which is why I got into the habit of buying a few skeins of extra-fine or fine yarn that I can use to make extra thick tassels as well . However , this method requires a lot of patience since you are going to handle thin yarn .

Look at me , so much talking . Let’s get down to business . Besides the yarn you are going to need a pair of scissors , a centimeter and a larger crochet hook , around 7mm European size and above , depending on the type of yarn you are using .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

1. To make tassels that are 15-17 cm long , use your centimeter to measure 130-140 cm of the loose end of your skein . Cut using the pair of scissors . Continue cutting from the loose end until you have the necessary number of threads of yarn to complete the tassels . Don’t forget that a 50-raws shawl will require a double amount of tassels , in this case 100+1 in the tip of the shawl . Please be advised that this thread alone is not going to be enough . It will turn into a long and thin tassel . If you prefer them this way , then you should stop cutting more threads . Otherwise , please continue cutting . I even used 3 such threads to complete one tassel . There were 100 tassels in total . That means that I had to cut 300 threads in total, with one being 140 cm, that means that you will need 420m to complete the tassels, if you choose to make them this thick.

2. There were times when my mom used 1+1/2 threads , 2 or 3 threads to make a tassel . Once again , you need to have a lot of patience to do this work .

3. Now let’s combine 2 threads together . Fold them once . You will have 4 long loose ends . Fold them again . You will have 8 loose ends . Fold the tassel once more . Now you have 16 loose ends . Bellow you will see a list of other ways to get the thickness of the tassels .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

A. If you use one thread , you will get 8 loose ends .

B. If you use one thread and a half , you will get 12 loose ends . My mom even used one thread and a quarter to get 10 loose ends , especially when the yarn was limited . this is the reason why I suggested that you got plenty of yarn to avoid all this extra work of cutting small bits of thread .

C. If you use 2 threads you will get 16 loose ends .

D. If you use 3 threads , you will get 24 loose ends . This point is one of my favorite , but mostly when using thin yarn . Otherwise , I choose to combine 2 threads .

E. My sister alternated the number the threads to complete the shawls in the imagine bellow. She combined a tassel with two threads with a tassel with three threads, resulting in a combination of thinner and thicker tassels, just to try a new method.

F. For the next colorful shawl, my mom used a crazy combination of threads. She was so brave to cut 30cm long threads from 5-7 colors and mixed all of them together to make multicolored tassels.

The choice is up to you.

4. With the 2 threads equally folded 3 times , giving you 16 loose ends , make sure you make the middle of the tassel as visible as possible . This space in the middle should look like one giant loop .

5. Insert the recommended crochet hook earlier in the chain space where you need to attach the tassel ( the chain 1 space between the shells in the case of a granny shawl , or the chain 1 space right in the middle of a crocodile scale , as seen in the case bellow ) Make sure your shawl is facing the front side and that you are inserting the hook from bottom to up .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.1

6. Insert the hook in the middle of the tassel , right in the giant loop . Be careful when grabbing this loop . Make sure you don’t lose any loose ends . Pull the loop through the chain space .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.2

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.3

7. This is the hardest part . Even though what you are doing is nothing else but a knot , it is a bit awkward to handle because of the large size . Which is why I recommended that you use a big hook as well .

8. Now you have a giant loop on your hook . Don’t make this loop too tight . There is one last step that needs completed . Yarn over hook once , wrapping the whole threads together around the hook in one go . Now you have a new loop on your hook . Pull this secondary loop through the first loop on your hook which , once again , should not be too tight . Continue pulling until all loose ends went through the loop and the tassel is attached to the shawl in the space recommended in the instructions .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.4

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.5

9. You can adjust the loose ends to look equal between them . Use the pair of scissors to cut the ends of the tassels .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.6

Well , that is all . I sort of scared you , didn’t I ? I did not mean to . It is just that making these tassels was simply not my favorite part in the past . But to be honest , I absolutely love a shawl with tassels . So do you know what ? I think I got over the unpleasantry . My advice to you is to practice making these tassels until you master them .

If you prefer the video instructions, you can watch the video tutorial bellow.

Of course , there are more methods of making tassels , some easier , some more difficult . However , this is currently my preferred method . However I will add other methods in this article in the future , when time and imagination allow me to . I hope my instructions are of help . You can also contribute with other tips and techniques in the comment section bellow .

Happy cutting and tasseling , everyone .
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians)

Feb 092018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

There are many variations to the crocodile crochet stitch and even more applications and ways to use it to make all sorts of items , from blankets , pillow cases , hats , mittens , shawls , cardigans and so many more . I am currently experimenting with these variations to create patterns for small items just to keep my hands and imagination busy . Let me remind you that I lost my sight in November 2013 after suffering a stroke that I wrote about on my personal blog . You can read the story here . But let’s go back to the crocodile stitch . I put together a video tutorial on how to crochet the crocodile stitch that you can follow bellow .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

However , today’s instructions will show you a variation of this beautiful crochet stitch . Why is that ? It is easier for me to use this variation because of the extra chain 1 spaces . Since I no longer see , I need to use my touching quite a lot to figure out a pattern . Which is why I prefer the lacey stitches a lot more rather than the solid block stitches . Thankfully , the crocodile stitch falls under the first category which I like . So now let me explain to you how I was able to crochet the crocodile shawl that you can see in the images bellow , even though I don’t see . If you prefer visual instructions , you can follow my video tutorial on YouTube on how to crochet this type of shawl that I made shortly before the stroke . As far as I remember , the video also uses a small variation of the stitch . Either way will work just fine .

Information about the materials and tools needed :

1. I used 13 skeins of superfine yarn for the entire project , including the tassels , which I prefer long and thick . I wanted to make a large crocodile shawl because this is how I like them better , long and large . Which is why I used so many skeins of yarn . But if you want to make a scarf or a smaller shawl , then you should get 8 skeins . The information on the label is as follows : 50g (1,76 oz), 255m (~ 278yds), 71% acrylic, 24% wool, 5% metallic yarn, needle 2.50mm.

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook , even though the label on the yarn recommends using a smaller size . I chose the 6 mm one because I can’t really hold a smaller hook in my hand . Blind people usually tend to work with big hooks and needles and bulky wool . I should admit that making this shawl was a dare . But the result turned out beautifully , which is why I couldn’t care less about all that effort , sweat , blood and tears .

3. It took me approximately 2 weeks to finish this shawl , with an average of one skein per day used .

4. Sizes: Width= 200cm (78,74 inch), Height= 82cm (32,38 inch), Sides= 128cm (50 inch), Tassels= 17cm (6,7 inch).

Abbreviations and how tos :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stictch;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in space recommended and work 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

The shawl will be worked in rows , with the start at the tip of the shawl . It will grow in size on each row , on the edges . Which is why I am only going to explain how to crochet the first rows , the rest of them being a repeat of these first , making sure you add the necessary stitches on the sides to enlarge your shawl .

Row 1 and row 2 : Ch5 ; join with beg ch with sl st to form a ring ; ch 1 ; 5dc in ring ; ch1 ; 5dc in ring ; turn .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.1

Row 3 : Ch4 ( counts as 1dc+ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same space as ch-4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale from previous row ; V-st in top of the first dc on one of the sides of the scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 3 V-st on row 3, see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.2

Row 4 : 1scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1scale around last V-st ; turn . ( 2 scales on row 4 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.3

Row 5 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; V-st in next ch1 sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on one of the sides of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.4

Row 6 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.5

Row 7 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * once ; v-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of last scale from previous row ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 7 V-sts on row 7 )

Row 8 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; * repeat fromm * to * once ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the two scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 9 V-sts on row 9 )

Row 10 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last V-st on the side from previous row ; turn . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

Rows 11-110 : Repeat rows 9-10 , making sure you enlarge the shawl on the sides , as explained and shown in the previous paragraphs .

Row 111 : 1sc in each chain space and stitch from rows 109 and 110 , making sure you grab and crochet around the spaces between the scales and in the middle of the scales from previous row as well / This row is necessary for a stronger foundation when you finish the shawl .

This is about it . Trust me when I say this , the pattern is not complicated at all . And the crocodile stitch is a lot easier to execute than it meets the eye . Even *I* was able to make it and I don’t see . I wrote the instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to a shawl in a different article for a better management of this website . You can find it here . I hope my instructions are of help to you and that you now have a long and gorgeous shawl wrapped around yourself for the upcoming spring . Please share photos of your work on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians) .

Jan 182018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I am so happy you are showing interest in following my instructions on how to crochet a pillow case for a baby or child using the crocodile stitch that I re-learned recently and that I love so much since it gives me the opportunity to crochet more complicated patterns and fancier stitches . If you did not reach these instructions following my previous on how to crochet a baby blanket using the crocodile stitch , then please take a look at the respective article since it includes important details about this stitch , materials and tools needed and so on . You can find this pattern here .

Crocodile Pillow Case Coolorful

Let’s recap a few things :

1. I used 14 colors in total for one type of pillow case and a mix of 4 shades of blue and white for the baby boy pillow case . Most of the yarn that I used was leftover yarn from the 28-30 skeins that I bought to complete the whole project altogether . That means a baby blanket and two pillow cases . If you prefer crocheting only the pillow case , I still recommend that you get plenty of yarn in case you decide to make it bright and colorful . For example 14 skeins of different colors are enough to make two pillow cases , but only if you change the colors between them to make the best of your yarn work . Whereas for the blue pillow case I used 4 shades of blue and 6 skeins of white to complete both my pillow cases . It is still a continuous effort for me to discover the right amount of yarn needed to end a crochet project .

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook .

3. It took me approximately 4 days to make one pillow case .

4. One pillow case is 30cmx30cm (12inch x12inch)

5. The following information is a repeat of one of the points described in my previous pattern on how to crochet a baby blanket, but it is mandatory that you decide beforehand how you want to combine the colors, since you do not want your pillow case to turn either too wide or too long. So this is how I mixed my colors:

Baby girl pillow case:

A-B-C-D-E-F-G/ H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G

H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G/ H-I-J-K-L-M-N

Baby boy pillow case:

A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A

Abbreviations and how to :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stitch ;

sc – single crochet stitch ;

dc – double crochet stitch ;

IR – in round ( this pattern is executed in rounds with no sewing whatsoever , since sewing is a procedure I would not be able to make since I am blind ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next set of 2dc, ch 1, turn work so the set of 2dc is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of the set, work 5 dc.

Let’s get started!

With your first choice of color , chain 49 ; 1sc in each chain across the foundation chain on both sides of the chain ; that means that you will have 48 sc on one side and 48 sc on the other side of the foundation chain . Please count your stitches and make sure you have 96 sc in total ; join with sl st in first sc to complete the foundation of your pillow case .

Round 1 : ch 3 ( counts as a dc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same sc as beg ch3 ; ch2 ; skip next 2sc ; * 2dc in next sc ; ch 2 ; skip next 2sc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with sl st in top of beg ch3, do not turn (32 sets of 2dc) .

*Note: please be aware that you need to have 16 sets of 2 dc on one side of the foundation chain and 16 on the other side; when you finish the last set of 2dc on one side you need to have 2sc remaining at the end of one side you need that you need to skip; turn your work on the other side of the foundation chain and repeat the instructions from this note.

Round 2 : Ch3 ; working from top to bottom , 4dc around the beg ch3 from previous round ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top 5dc around the second dc from previous round ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with sl st in top of beg ch3 of the first scale ; cut the yarn and fasten off (16 scales in total) .

Round 3 : Attach your next choice of color with a sl st between the two dc of any available set of 2dc from previous round ; ch3 ; 1dc in same space as ch3 , making sure you grab the ch-1 sp between the 2 scales from previous round and crochet around it as well ; ch2 ; * 2dc in next ch sp in the middle of next scale ; ch2 ; 2dc between the next set of 2dc , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the 2 scales from previous round as well ; ch2 * ; repeat from * to * around ; join in top of beg ch3 with sl st (32 sets of 2dc in total)

Round 4 : Ch3 ; working from top to bottom , 4dc around the beg ch3 from previous round ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top 5dc around the second dc from previous round ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with sl st in top of beg ch3 of the first scale ; cut the yarn and fasten off (16 scales in total) .

Round 5-42 : Repeat round 3 and 4 , making sure you alternate between your desired colors .

Round 43 : Do not cut the yarn on round 42 ; crochet one last round of sc in each stitch and chain from previous round , making sure you crochet around the ch1 sps between the scales and in the sps in the middle of the scales as well ; 96 sc in total ;do not cut the yarn yet, as you will need to sew the pillow.

Crocodile Pillow Case Coolorful

Sew all the loose ends around the crocodile scales to conceal them better .

Methods to sew the pillow case:

1. Do not cut the yarn on round 43 of sc; insert your pillow in the pillow case; use the yarn to crochet sl st along this last round of sc to finish the pillow case.; alternatively, you can cut the yarn but leave a long tail and simply sew across this last round of sc.

2. With the left-over yarn, braid a lace, approximately 50cm long; insert it throughout the chain spaces across the last round of crocodile scales; pull the lace softly while inserting, in the same way as you would do your shoelaces; knot a ribbon at the end.
Crocodile Pillow Case Coolorful

Shades of Blue and White Crocodile Baby Blanket by Coolorful

And there you have it . Two beautiful small sized pillow cases for your children or even for yourself , if you decide to use the pillows as decor in your living room or bedroom . I hope you are enjoying your new finished items and that you are pleased with my instructions . If you find any details that sound unclear or confusing , please write them down to me in a comment bellow this article . I will add the corrections afterwards .

And one last thing . Please add photos of your crocodile baby blankets and pillow cases on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
The Coolorburbians.

Jan 132018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit I grew very fond of the granny on the straight stitch that I used since I began crocheting again in March 2016 . To those of you who are reading my blog for the first time , I should repeat this bit of information about my life . I suffered a stroke in late November 2013 after which I became blind and partially deaf . I used to crochet on an advanced level before the stroke , but the permanent blindness that I am facing cut my crocheting passion short . I now am somewhere below a beginner crocheter since I have to make every step and stitch through touching with the visual help being a valuable commodity that I currently do not afford . But in March 2016 I got into the habit of crocheting once again , though all my work since that moment relied solely on the granny on the straight stitch that I found so easy to use with all the chain 1 spaces and somewhat lacey aspect that this stitch has . In time , I was no longer able to fool the little artist in me . My fingers were aching to try new stitches and patterns , despite my fear and frustration . I really used to be an advanced crocheter and loved the Tunisian stitches the most , stitches that I currently find impossible to make . But so I thought about the crocodile crochet stitch less than 4 months ago , when I gave it a try . And guess what , everyone ? I did a fabulous job crocheting two baby blankets and three pillow cases . One set is for a girl , the other one is for a baby boy . Come to think about it , the two blankets are for about 12-18 months old children . In any case , I thought to put together the instructions that will help you crochet similar pieces for your children , relatives or possible clients .

Things you need to know about the stitch and materials needed :

1. I used 28 skeins of 100% micropolyester Baby Softy yarn from Alize, wash by hand, 50g (1.76 oz.), 115m (126 yds) , as shown in the image bellow . They were enough to complete the blanket and the pillow cases .

Colorful Crocodile Crochet Baby Blanket By Coolorful

2. I used a mix of 14 colors for the girl blanket and a mix of white and four shades of blue for the boy blanket . Feel free to use whatever colors you prefer , but make sure you have sufficient quantity to finish your project .

3. Buying the necessary amount of yarn depends on the type of crochet hook you will use to crochet the crocodile set . I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook . It also depends on the type of stitches and tension in your work . For example , my mother tends to crochet large stitches , so she would need a larger quantity of yarn as well , whereas my sister and I tend to make our stitches tightly , giving them a smaller look .

4. This means that the following measurements that I am going to give you are only an approximation . Please take into consideration your own crochet habits before embarking on working on this project .

The Baby Girl Crocodile Crochet Blanket: Width: 90cm; Length: 100cm

The Baby Boy Crocodile Crochet Blanket: Width: 94cm ; Length: 98cm

5. It took me about 18 days to complete the whole set of blanket plus two pillow cases , but then again I have a tremendous amount of free time on my hands . However I averaged on around five rows per day .

6. Even though I will try my best to explain the crocodile stitch as best as possible , you could take a look at my old tutorial on YouTube that I posted on my crochet channel before the stroke that you can find at the following link . Please note that the tutorial is split in a few parts , giving you a lot of details and tips on how to crochet the crocodile stitch .

7. See the following diagram that I used to combine the colors:

Baby girl blanket: A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N / A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N / A-B-C-D-E-F-G – 2 skeins for each A to N colors (28 in total)

Baby boy blanket: A- white (16 skeins); B- 1st blue (3 skeins); C- 2nd bleu (3 skeins); D- 3rd bleu (3 skeins); E- 4th bleu (3 skeins) – 28 in total.

A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A

Abbreviations :

ch – chain

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space

beg ch – beginning chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet stitch

dc – double crochet stitch

How to crochet the crocodile scale : working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next set of 2dc, ch 1, turn work so the set of 2dc is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of the set, work 5 dc.

Level: easy, beginner.

Instructions :

Make a foundation chain of 122 chains ( the crocodile stitch is usually done in a multiple of 6 chains plus 4 extra chains to complete the pattern , but I used a small variation of the instructions for a more solid foundation , so I recommend that you do the same ) . Work 1sc in each ch across the foundation ch ( 121 sc in total ) .

Row 1 : Ch 3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same sc as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; skip next 2sc ; * 2dc in next sc ; ch 2 ; skip next 2 sc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; 2dc in last sc ; ch 1 and turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 1 )

Row 2 : 1 crocodile scale around first set of 2dc ; ch 1; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around next set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last set of 2dc ; cut the yarn and fasten off; turn . ( 21 crocodile scales on row 2 )

Row 3 : Attach new color in the middle of last scale from previous row with sl st ; ch 3 ; 1dc in same sp as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; * 2dc between the next 2dc from previous row , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the scales as well ; ch 2 ; 2dc in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with 2dc in the middle of last scale ; turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 3 )

Row 4 : Sl st between the two dc of the first set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; * 1 scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; sl st between the two dc of the last set of 2dc from previous row ; cut the yarn and fasten off , turn . (20 crocodile scales in total)

Row 5 : Attach new choice of color between the two dc of the last set of 2dc from row 3 with a sl st ; ch 3 ; 1dc in same space as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; * 2dc in the middle of the next scale ; ch 2 ; 2dc between the two dc of the next set of 2dc , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the scales as well ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with a set of 2dc in the last set of 2dc from row 3 ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 5 )

Row 6 : 1 scale around the first set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; * skip next set of 2dc ; 1 scale around next set of 2dc; ch 1* repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with a scale around the last set of 2dc ; cut the yarn and fasten off; turn. ( 21 scales on row 6 )

Rows 7-126 : Repeat rows 3-6 , alternating your color options as well to suit your personal taste the best .

Do not cut the yarn on row 126. 1sc in each stitch , chain and space , 121 sc in total . Knot all loose ends securely , sew them across the scales and cut the tails when you are done .

I split the instructions in two parts, making the pattern easier to follow. Please visit the article on how to crochet a crocodile pillow case for a baby or as a home decor here.

I hope my guidance is of help and that your kids will enjoy their new crocodile blankets.

Happy crocodiling,
The Coolorburbians.

Dec 222017
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit that I only began writing instructions for my crochet projects recently , after resuming my hand made hobby last year , in March . Putting these instructions together is a great adventure for me , since I still am unable to see , which means that I have to write down the steps using a lot of my imagination and visual memory . This is a marvelous thing happening to me since visualizing things is a recommended exercise for people who have lost their sight . So let’s see how this is going to go . Please address notes to me about any mistakes you may find throughout the instructions for a Christmas crocheted beret using the crocodile stitch as the main technique .

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Crocodile Stitch Beret

Materials and other information :

I used three skeins of yarn , one white and two reds and a 5.5 mm and a 4.5 mm European size crochet hooks , as seen in the image bellow . The yarn is 100% acrylic yarn , 75 grams per skein , 210 meters long , from a Romanian brand called ‘Adina’ . I recommend that you use similar materials , including the hook sizes for the instructions to work the best . If you prefer crocheting the crocodile beret in one color , I still suggest that you get three skeins of your preferred color . Better be safe than sorry . Besides that , you are going to need the remaining yarn to make the pompon . This is a pattern for beginner-intermediate crocheters . It took me three days to finish the beret , but then again things take me a little longer to complete . But if you are going to start like NOW , you may be over in time for Christmas with a beautiful beret that you can wear yourself or give away as a gift to someone dear .

The beret will fit a medium adult size. Unstretched, the headband is 51cm in circumference.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.1

Abbreviations and how-to’s :

ch – chain ;

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space ;

sl st – slip stitch ;

YO – yarn over

hdc – half double crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

hdc V-st– half double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1hdc , ch1 , 1hdc ) ;

dc V-st – double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1dc , ch1 , 1dc ) ;

fpdc – front post double crochet ( insert hook behind the next recommended stitch from right to left, as seen in the image bellow , making sure you YO once before this step ; twirl the hook and YO again , just like you would crochet a normal dc ; now you have three loops on your hook ; YO again and pull through first two loops on your hook ; YO one last time and pull through last two loops on your hook ; the dc should look as if pushed in front – see images bellow )

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc (see image bellow).

How to crochet the headband :

Begin with white and the 5.5 mm hook . Chain 13 .

Row 1 : Skip first 2ch ( they count as 1hdc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in each of next 10 chains ; 1hdc in last ch ; ch 2 ; turn .

Row 2 : 1fpdc in second dc from previous row ; 1fpdc in each of the next 9dc ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch2 ; turn .

Rows 3-56 : Begin in the second fpdc , 1fpdc in each fpdc across the row ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch 2 ( skip this last step when you get to row 56 ) ; turn .

Your headband should look like mine , as seen in the image bellow . Each row of the crocheted headband has 12 stitches , 10 of which are fpdc and 2 hdc on the sides.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.11

If you are going to switch the color into the red one , then please cut the yarn , leaving about a 10 cm long tail for sewing , . If you continue working the beret using the same color , then please use sl st to join the two sides together, as shown in image bellow.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.12

How to crochet the main part of the beret:

Turn the headband on one side. You will work in rounds from now on.

Round 1 : Attach the red color in any ch2 on side of the beret you chose with a sl st ; ch 4 ( counts as 1dc and a ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same ch2 as the previous ch4 ; * skip next hdc on the side ; dc V-st in next ch2 * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last hdc on the side ; join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch4 with sl st . ( 28 dc V-st in total , see image bellow ); do not turn.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.13

Round 2 : Ch3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; working from top to bottom around post of first dc of first V-st , work 4dc ; ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down (V point of V-st will be facing right); working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc ; * skip next dc V-st ; 1 scale around the next dc V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last dc V-st ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st ; do not turn . (14 scales in total)

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.14

Round 3 : Insert hook in the ch-1 sp between the two scales from previous row and work 1sc , making sure you crochet around both the ch-1 sp and the sp between the scales ; ch4 ; 1dc in same sp as ch4 ; * dc V-st in next ch-1 sp in the middle of the next scale ; dc V-st in the next ch-1 sp , making sure you crochet around the sp between the the two scales from previous row as well * ; repeat from * to * around ; dc V-st in last ch-1 sp in the middle of last scale ; join in the 3rd ch of ch4 with a sl st ; do not turn . (28 dc V-st in total)

Round 4 : repeat round 2 .

Rounds 5-22 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , alternating between them .

Rounds 23-24 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , but using the 4.5 mm crochet hook .

Round 25 : Repeat row 3 with the following notes : change beg ch4 with a ch3 ; change dc V-st with hdc V-st ; join in the second ch from the beg ch3 with a sl st ; use the same 4.5 mm crochet hook . (28 hdc V-sts in total)

Round 26 : Ch 2 (counts as a hdc); working from top to bottom around post of first hdc of first V-st, work 3 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down, working from bottom to top around post of second hdc of V-st, work 4 fphdc; * skip next hdc V-st; 1 hdc scale around next hdc V-st, making sure you crochet 4hdc around each hdc post instead of 5, like you did so far*; repeat from * to *; skip last hdc V-st; join with top of beg ch-2 with a sl st; do not turn. (14 smaller scales in total)

Round 27 : Repeat round 25 . Leave a long thread to use for sewing top of beret.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.15

Closing hat top: With yarn needle, thread tail through spaces of hdc V-sts of last round twice, pull gently to gather top tightly, and knot securely. (See following image)

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.16

How to make the pompon :
Wind yarn around a piece of hard cardboard 13cm long approx 150 times ( we used a plastic cover); tie tightly in the middle and leave a long end for attaching to hat; cut loops at both ends and trim to smooth round shape; sew securely to top of hat. See images below:

I hope you like it. Happy crocheting and
Merry Christmas,
The Coolorburbians.

Nov 252017
 

Dear Artsy&Crafts Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial I am going to show you how to crochet a colorful sweater using the Traditional Solid Granny Square, as shown in the picture below.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

You might think it is hard, but that’s not the case. So let’s get started.

Abbreviations:

ch- – chain
ch-X-sp – chain X space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner

Size: L, 40

Tips:

1. To make your sweater as colorful as possible, you will need a variety of colors. So make an inventory of all the leftover yarn or buy new ones. Or you can make it with as many colors as you want, even two or just one, in which case you won’t have to cut the yarn and fasten off the yarn as much. The instructions will be the same. All in all, you will need about 800 grams ( approx. 29 ounces) of yarn in total.

2. For this project, we used 100% light worsted acrylic yarn. If you use a thicker yarn, the size will differ.

3. You will need a 4mm EU size (7-I9), 5mm EU size, a pair of scissors, tape measurement, like in the photo below (imag.1).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.1

4. Try to keep a steady tension when crocheting the stitches to make the project look even and neat.

5. If you decide to work with multiple colors, be aware that you will have lots of loose ends. When working solid Granny squares, you will attach the new color as follows: make a knot, (imag. 2) join with sl st ]n ch-2-sp (imag. 3), which is the corner of the solid granny square. You will do the same when working the sleeves, chest or back.

6. Don’t forget to hide all the loose ends as you crochet ( imag. 4). If you leave them for later, it will be a lot more difficult and time consuming.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.4

7. You will crochet 2 big solid Granny squares, one for front, one for back. Each square will have 20 rows. When you finish working one square, you will add 15 rows of double crochet to each square to complete the chest and the back. Then, you will work the sleeves, an edge using the single crochet and, finally, the collar.

Having said that, let’s get to work.

Part 1: How to crochet the two solid Granny squares

Row 1: with first color work 2ch (imag.5); work [ 3dc in 1st ch; 2 h (imag.6,7)] x 4; join with sl st last ch-2 with first dc; cut the thread and fasten off; you will have: 3dc on each side, 12 dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp (which represent the corners of the square)(imag. 8)

Row 2: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp; work 3ch (this counts as a dc here and throughout); work 1dc in same ch-sp as the 3ch (imag. 9); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row (imag 10); * work [2dc, 2 ch, 2dc] in next ch-2-sp (imag. 11); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch -3 with sl st; cut the thread and fasten off . You will have: 7dc on each side, 28dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.12)

Row 3: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2-sp as 3ch (imag.13); work 1dc in each of next 7dc from previous row (imag. 14); * work [2dc, 2ch,2dc] in next ch-2sp, (imag. 15) and 1dc in each of the next 7 dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 11dc on each side, 44dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.(imag. 16)

Row 4: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 17), and 1dc in each of the 11dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.18), and 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 15dc on each side, 60dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.19)

Row 5: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 20), and 1dc in each of the 15dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.21), and 1dc in each of next 15dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 19dc on each side, 76dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.22)

The square will increase in size in the ch-2-sp corners which each row. Each side of the square will have 4 extra dc (16dc in total on each row). Following this principle and the instructions from the previous rows, please work the next 15 rows. To give you extra help, will count the number of dc for each row.

Row 6: you will have: 23dc on each side, 92dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 7: 27dc on each side, 108dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 8: 31dc on each side, 124dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 9: 35dc on each side, 140dc in total, 4ch-2-sp.

Row 10: 39dc on each side, 156dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag. 23)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.23

Row 11: 43dc on each side, 172dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 12: 47dc on each side, 188dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 13: 51dc on each side, 204 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 14: 55dc on each side, 220 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 15: 59dc on each side, 236 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 16: 63dc on each side, 252 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 17: 67dc on each side, 268 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 18: 71dc on each side, 284 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 19: 75dc on each side, 300 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 20: 79dc on each side, 316 in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.24)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.24

Part 2: How to crochet the chest and the back

The pattern is the same for both chest and back. You work the rows horizontically on either side of the squares.

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp ; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout)(imag. 25); work 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row of the square, 1dc in next ch-2-sp; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag.26,27)

Rows 2-15: join new color with sl st in last dc from previous row; work 3c, and 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag. 28, 29)

Part 3: How to join the front and the back

Join the two sides of the sweater, front and back, with sl st. Insert crochet hook in any ch-2-sp from opposite side of the one you worked the 15 rows, simultaneously in both squares and start to sl st. Insert hook in next dc, simultaneously in both squares and sl st. Repeat until end of rows. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag 30)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.30

Part 4: How to join the shoulders

Join the shoulders the same as the front and back, with sl st. Don’t forget to leave enough space for the neck. (imag. 31)
At this point, your project will look like a vest.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.31

Part 5: How to crochet the sleeves

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc in the space designed for the sleeve; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout), and 1dc in same dc as ch-3; work 2dc on the horizontal side of each dc in the sleeve space until you finish; join last dc with top of beg. ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 60dc in total ( imag. 32)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.32

Rows 2-35: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 3ch, and 1dc in each of next 59dc from previous row; join last dc with top beg ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. There will be 60dc in total (imag. 33).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.33

Part 6: How to work the edges

You will need the 4mm crochet hook. You will use single crochet stitches and work in circle.

a)The edge at the bottom of squares:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any ch-2-sp from bottom side of the Granny square; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 79dc from the bottom side of square1; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; 1sc in next 79dc from bottom side of square2; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; join with first sc with sl st; cut and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag 34, 35)

Rows2-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 161sc from previous row; join with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag.36)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.36

b)The sleeve edge:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 1ch; insert hook in same space as ch-1 and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all the 3 loops on the hook (imag. 37, 38); * insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all 3 loops on the hook (imag. 39,40) *; repet from * to *; join last sc with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 30sc in total. (imag. 41)

Row 2: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops on the hook; * insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops *; repeat from * to *; join with first ch-1 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 20 sc in total.

Rows 3-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 19sc in each of the next 20sc from previous row; join with sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and afsten off. You will have 20sc in total. (imag.42)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.42

Part 7: How to work the collar

Join desired color with sl st in any of dc from within the collar space; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 1sc in each of the next dc from previous row within the collar area; join wih sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag. 43)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.43

Congratulations! You’ve just finished a super colorful sweater. Enjoy it.

Happy joining colors,

The Coolorburbians.