The Coolorburbians

Oct 052018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

My sister and I put together a new photo tutorial on how to crochet the double crochet stitch which is one of the most basic crochet stitches . Many patterns are based on the double crochet stitch , along the single , half double and triple crochet stitches . We decided to put together this series of photo tutorials to those of you who face difficulties while watching videos . We truly hope our photo tutorial is of help to you .

Photo Tutorial How To Crochet The Double Crochet Stitch By Coolorful.com

For practice only , use any type of yarn you prefer and an appropriate crochet hook . However when you decide to follow a pattern we recommend that you respect the specific instructions and use the suggested yarn and crochet hook size .

We truly advise you to only commit yourself to a large project ( such as a blanket , a cardigan or even a shawl ) using this basic stitch only after you got to completely master it . Many people write to us complaining that their throws and wraps turn up curly , wavy and uneven . You surely need to understand that crocheting is an art that requires a lot of time , a lot of practice , patience , commitment and so much love and passion ! It took us many years , trials and errors to learn to keep our tension steady while crocheting and to progress from beginner to intermediate then to advanced crocheters . And even after so many years of hooking we still do not consider us as real advanced crocheters .

Abbreviations :

ch – chain ;

dc – double crochet stitch ;

YO – yarn over hook ( it refers to the step when you are told to wrap the yarn around the hook while executing a stitch ) .

Let’s start ! Work on a smaller piece to begin with . Chain 12 for your foundation chain ( see image bellow ) This will give you 10 double crochet stitches on first row and throughout unless you decide to increase or decrease the project .

Photo Tutorial How To Crochet The Double Crochet Stitch By Coolorful.com

Row 1 : Skip first three chains of the foundation chain ( these 3 chains count as as a double crochet stitch here and throughout ) ; YO once ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) and insert your hook in the 4th ch from the hook ; YO once and pull the yarn through the ch of the foundation chain ( now you have 3 loops on your hook ) ; YO once and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on your hook ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) ; YO one last time and pull the yarn through last 2 remaining loops on your hook to complete the double crochet stitch . ( see following images )

Let’s make a second dc together : YO once ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) and insert your hook in the next ch of the foundation ch ; YO once and pull the yarn through the ch ( now you have 3 loops on your hook ) ; YO and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on your hook ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) ; Yo one last time and pull the yarn through last 2 remaining loops on your hook to complete a second dc . ( see images below ) This is how the first 2 completed dc look like . However do not forget that the first 3ch that you skipped at the beginning of the row also count as a dc . Which means there are 3dc in total so far on first row .

Let’s make another dc together : * YO once ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) and insert your hook in the next ch of the foundation chain ; YO once and pull the yarn through the respective ch ( now you have 3 loops on your hook ) ; YO and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on your hook ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) ; YO one last time and pull the yarn through last 2 remaining loops on your hook to complete another dc * . ( see next images )

Now please repeat the steps given between * and * in the previous paragraph in order to finish the first row . The images below will give you visual support while crocheting the last 6dc on first row following the written instructions given above .

When you finish off the last dc in the last ch of the foundation chain , chain 3 and turn your work on the back . We repeat that this beginning ch3 counts as a dc . Take a look at the below image and notice that the position of this beginning ch3 is above the last executed dc on row 1 . This is a very important detail you need to be aware of and get used to . Many beginner crocheters tend to make mistakes at this point in their work , mistaking the chains and stitches . They usually end up increasing their work on the sides .

Row 2 : YO once ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) and insert your hook in the second dc from row 1 , below the 2 loops on top of the stitch ; YO once and pull the yarn through the stitch ( now you have 3 loops on your hook ) ; YO once and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on your hook ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) ; YO one last time and pull the yarn through last 2 remaining loops on your hook to complete a dc on row 2 . ( see images below )

Let’s continue making more dc together : * YO once ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) and insert your hook in the next dc from previous row , below the 2 loops on top of the stitch ; YO and pull the yarn through the stitch ( now you have 3 loops on your hook ) ; YO once and pull the yarn through first 2 loops on your hook ( now you have 2 loops on your hook ) ; YO one last time and pull the yarn through last 2 remaining loops on your hook to finish another dc on row 2 * . ( see next images )

There are 3dc completed on row 2 , if you did not forget to count the beginning ch3 . Now please repeat the steps between * and * in the previous paragraph six more times to complete 9dc on second row . Crocheting the last dc on this row requires further explanation so we shall meet at the end of this row . You should continue taking a look at the following images which will give you visual support while practicing the written instructions .

Making the last dc on this row is just a little delicate because its position is above the first beginning ch3 that you skipped when you began your work on row 1 . When you get at this point in your work , follow the same steps we hope you got used by now , but instead of inserting your hook in the respective dc , below the 2 loops on top of the stitch , now you need to insert your hook in the first ch of the beginning ch3 , behind the front 2 loops of that chain . Sometimes this step is quite challenging because you could tend to execute these chains a little too tightly . Which is why we recommend that you use a smaller hook to insert in this chain and continue making the last dc using your usual/recommended hook . Do not forget to chain 3 and turn your project on the other side .

From now on your work is a repeat of row 2 so we suggest that you go back to the instructions given previously in order to make more rows . However we attached further photos to give you more visual support for more completed rows .

You may have noticed by now that the sides of your work are turning slightly ugly because of the beginning ch3 which is replacing a dc . Do not worry about this issue , There are many ways and techniques to add a border/edge to your project to make it look prettier . My sister and I will come up with an article showing you a few ways to make various borders around your work .

Photo Tutorial How To Crochet The Double Crochet Stitch By Coolorful.com

We truly hope our tutorial was of help to you . We kindly ask you to spread the word around about our website through sharing and liking ! We kindly thank you for your support !

Happy hooking ,
The Coolorburbians .

Jun 272018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

How are you all doing ? Are you set to begin a new crochet project ? This time around the pattern today I will show you how to crochet an afghan/throw/lap blanket using the laziest waves stitch , which is nothing but a combination of single , half double and double crochet stitches . There is no increasing and decreasing in the peaks and the valleys when it comes to this particular stitch , as you normally do in the case of the wave/zig-zag/chevron stitch which uses large peaks and valleys . Despite the fact that it is summer and you would prefer to crochet light and small items , I decided to put down the written instructions for this blanket before all details are completely erased from my memory . I made this laziest wave afghan a very long time ago , before losing my sight at the end of 2013 , but even so I still remember the steps and materials used . So Here it goes .

Crocheted wave stitch blanket by coolorful.com

Materials and tools needed : I remember using a 6mm European size crochet hook . I used leftover yarn from other projects . I undid a white brownish scarf to get the white that you see in the image . I undid a sweater to get the black yarn and leftover purple yarn from another project . But if I were to recommend a certain amount of yarn and type , then be sure you have plenty of yarn for your project . You should get three of your preferred colors , 4-6 skeins for each color . It should be worsted to chunky or bulky yarn to make the lazy waves as visible as possible . My throw turned about 150cm by 180cm . Thankfully this stitch is not so much of a yarneater . You should crochet this blanket on the wide and not on the long . Otherwise the lazy waves motif will look awkward .

Abbreviations :

ch – chain ;

beg ch – beginning chain ;

sc – single crochet stitch ;

hdc – half double crochet stitch ;

dc – double crochet stitch .

Let’s begin . If you are learning this stitch for other projects , then you should know that it is done in multiples of 12 , plus 4 extra chains to complete this pattern . Chain 160 chains to make a blanket similar in size as the one I made .

Row 1 : Work 1sc in first ch from the hook ; 1sc in next ch ; 1sc in next ch ; * 1hdc in each of next 3ch ; 1dc in each of next 3ch ; 1hdc in each of next 3ch ; 1sc in each of next 3ch * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you finish with 3sc in last 3ch of the foundation chain ; cut the yarn , but don’t fasten off , you should have two loops on your hook from the last unfinished sc on row 1 .

Crocheted wave stitch afghan by coolorful.com

Row 2 : Attach the second color through the two loops left on your hook and chain 3 ( this counts as a dc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in each of next 2sc ; * 1hdc in each of next 3hdc ; 1sc in each of next 3dc ; 1hdc in each of next 3hdc ; 1dc in each of next 3sc * ; repeat from * to * across the row , making sure you finish with 3dc in last 3sc from previous row ; work the last dc as you normally do ; cut the yarn , but don’t fasten off and turn ; you should have two loops left on your hook .

Crocheted wave stitch afghan by coolorful.com

Row 3 : Attach the third color through the two loops on your hook with a sl st and ch1 ; 1sc in each of the 3dc on the side ; * 1hdc in each of next 3hdc ; 1dc in each of next 3sc ; 1hdc in each of next 3hdc ; 1sc in each of next 3dc * ; repeat from * to * across the row , making sure you finish with 3sc in last 3dc on the side , including 1sc in top of beg ch3 from previous row ; cut the yarn , but don’t fasten off , leave two loops on your hook .

Now repeat rows 2 and 3 until the afghan is 180 cm long .

Sew the loose ends across the rows . I did not add any extra edging to my blanket and don’t recommend using one unless necessary . If you hid your loose ends well , then you should be fine . Besides your last row will also have the lazy wave look and the pattern does not require to make an extra row to straighten this side of the blanket .

I hope you are enjoying this new pattern . Please send photos of your finished afghans on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar !

Crocheted wave stitch afghan by coolorful.com

Happy hooking !

Jun 152018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I came up with a pattern for a crocheted market bag using the granny on the straight stitch as the main stitch some time ago . I asked my mom to put my instructions to practice and here is what she made ! A beautiful , handy , practical bag just perfect to be used while at the market , for shopping and grocery , from light to medium weight items and products . It won’t be able to carry a few kilos of potatoes or tomatoes , but it is absolutely perfect for plants like parsley and dill , for your newspaper and magazines and even for your yarn shopping !

Materials and tools needed : Mom used about 4 skeins of bulky/chunky yarn , a blend of acrylic and cotton yarn . As a matter of fact , I recommend using yarn with the highest composition of cotton , preferably 100% cotton . Each skein my mom used was about 100 meters long . She used a 7mm European size crochet hook for the main body of the market bag and a 6mm one for the upper band and handles . Working with such small hook sizes for such a chunky yarn might be slightly awkward , but it is necessary in order to avoid the bag from stretching in time .

Abbreviations :

sl st – slip stitch ;

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

beg ch – beginning chain ;

sc – single crochet stitch ;

dc – double crochet stitch .

The base of the market bag is done in rounds and has the shape of a circle .

Crocheted Granny Market Bag by Coolorful.com

Here is how you should crochet the base :

Round 1 : Using the 7mm hook , chain 4 and join with beginning of the chain with a sl st to form a ring ; ch3 ( counts as a dc here and throughout ) ; 11dc in the ring ; jooin with top of beg ch3 with a sl st . ( 12dc on round 1 )

Round 2 : Ch3 ; 1dc in same stitch as ch3 , which is beg ch3 from previous round ; 2dc in each of the following 11dc from round 1 ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st . ( 24dc on round 2 )

Round 3 : Ch3 ; 2dc in next dc ; * 1dc in next dc ; 2dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st . ( 36dc on round 3 )

Round 4 : Ch3 ; 1dc in next dc ; 2dc in next dc ; * 1dc in next dc ; 1dc in next dc ; 2dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st . ( 48dc on round 4 )

Round 5 : Ch3 ; 1dc in next dc ; 1dc in next dc ; 2dc in next dc ; * 1dc in each of next 3dc ; 2dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st . ( 60dc on round 5 )

Round 6 : Ch3 ; 1dc in each of the next 3dc ; 2dc in next dc ; * 1dc in each of the next 4dc ; 2dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st . ( 72dc on round 6 )

Make sure that you made the right number of stitches on each round . This detail is very important ! Now that the base of the bag is finished , let’s continue to the main body of our project .

Crocheted Granny Market Bag by Coolorful.com

You can see from the photos that this part of the bag looks a little lacey . That is because I instructed my mom to use the granny on the straight stitch which uses lots of chain-1 spaces and sets of 3dc . There is no need to make any increase of the bag from now on . Continue working with the 7mm hook .

Round 7 : Sl st in next dc from previous round ; ch3 ; 2dc in same dc as beg ch3 ; ch1 ; skip next 3dc ; * 3dc in next dc ; ch1 ; skip next 3dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st ; ch3 annd turn the project on the inside . ( 18 sets of 3dc annd 18 ch-1 sp on round 7 )

Round 8 : 2dc in same ch-1 sp as beg ch3 ; ch1 ; skip next set of 3dc ; * 3dc in next ch-1 sp ; ch1 ; skip next set of 3dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st ; ch3 and turn the bag on the other side . ( 18 sets of 3dc and 18 ch-1 sps on round 8 )

Round 9: Repeat round 8 until the bag measures 31 cm in length .

Do you see your market bag taking size ? Don’t worry about it looking like it is going to grow too big ! My mom was utterly scared that the bag would end up too long and big and slouchy , but eventually she realized it turned just perfect ! But if you think it is growing too big , you can stop making the granny on the straight rounds at any point , reducing the size of the bag to suit your taste better . Only a few more steps left and voila ! You’ll be the proud owner of a crocheted bag that you made . Now switch to the 6mm hook .

Round 20 : Repeat round 8 , but skip making the ch1-sp between the sets of 3dc .

Round 21 : Sl st in the second dc of the set of 3dc , where you just ended the previous round ; ch1 ; 3sc in same dc as ch1 ; skip last dc of this set and the first dc of the following set ; * 3sc in the second dc of the set of 3dc ; skip last dc of this set and the first dc of the next set * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with first sc with a sl st ; sl st once mor in the second sc ; ch1 .

Round 22 : 3sc in same sc as ch1 from previous round ; skip third sc of the set of 3sc and first sc of the next set ; * 3sc in the second sc of the set of 3sc from previous round ; skip third sc of the set and the first sc of the following set of 3sc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with first sc with a sl st ; sl st once mor in the second sc of the set of 3sc ; ch1 .

Round 23-30 : Repeat round 22.

Crocheted Granny Market Bag by Coolorful.com

Now let’s go to making the two handles for your market bag . Follow the next instructions to make two pieces alike . Continue using the 6mm hook .

Chain 6 , but leave a long tail . You will need this to saw and attach the handle to the bag ; 1sc in each chain across , 5sc in total ; , ch1 and turn : * 1sc in each of the 5sc from previous row ; ch1 and turn * ; repeat from * to * until the handle is 42cm long . Cut the thread and leave a long tail for sewing .

Crocheted Granny Market Bag by Coolorful.com

I used the term ‘sewing’ to explain the way you will attach the handles to the market bag , but I am sure you noticed yourself that sewing a yarn so thick and frisky might be a challenging task . I only have plastic needles around the house that I use for sewing and mom already broke a few of them while sewing lighter yarn . As a result , I recommend that you use a crochet hook , preferably a smaller size , like 5mm or 5.5mm to help you during this last step Using this hook , attach 2cm of the handle on one side to the inside of the bag , on the band of sc. Use sl sts to do this , as many as you can . Make sure you don’t pull the yarn on the front . Keep it on the back as much as possible . Do the same with the other side of the handle , then attach the second one following the same steps . Use the same crochet hook to ‘saw’ and conceal/hide any other tail of your yarn resulted after knotting the thread .

That is all , dear friends ! Now go show off your new bag at the market ! You can also teach others to make one of their own ! This way we can help reduce the usage of plastic bags at the market ! I would be very happy if you shared pictures of your market bag on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar !

Thank you for following these instructions and don’t forget to share !

Jun 042018
 

Dear Arttsy Craftsy Friends ,

I can’t stop myself from trying new patterns and ways to use the crocodile stitch , now that I began mastering it , even with my eyes closed , which is not a figure of speech . Don’t forget that I still can’t see, which is sort of forcing me to try a certain type of crochet stitches . And the crocodile stitch is one of my favorite nowadays . I came up with three patterns using the crocodile stitch . They are easy , clear and are addressed to beginner-intermediate crocheters . These patterns include instructions on how to crochet a pair of mittens , a scarf and a hat .

Crocheted Crocodile Hat Scarf Gloves Set by Coolorful.com

Here is how you should make the pair of mittens :

Materials needed : I used a 5.5 mm European size crochet hook and a fine , light yarn , a blend of wool and acrylic yarn . Depending on the size of the mittens you plan to crochet , you will need between 250-350 meters of yarn . That is about a skein of yarn weighting around 75gr. .

I made three pairs of mittens so far . Two of them are a M size , whereas the third is a L size . The M ones are 8 cm in diameter and 24 cm long . The L ones are 9 cm in diameter and 24 cm long . My advice to you is to meassure your hand around your wrist using a centimeter to get the right size for yourself .

Abbreviations :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

Let’s begin .

Rows 1 and 2 : Chain 5 ; join with beginning chain with a slip stitch to form a ring ; chain 1 ; work 5dc in the ring ; ch6 ; work 5dc in the ring ; ch4 ( counts as a 1dc+ch1-sp here and throughout ) ;

Row 3 : Work 1dc in same sp as beg ch4 , in top of last executed dc from previous row ; ch1 ; V-st in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 . ( 3 V-st on row 3 )

Row 4 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around the first post of the V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; skip next V-st ; work a second crocodile scale around last V-st ; ch4 and turn . ( 2 scales onn row 4 )

Row 5 : Work 1dc in same space as beg ch4 ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of V-st , making sure you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales from previous row ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in thee middle of second scale ; ch1 ; V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 to turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 )

Row 6 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; ch1 skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; ch4 to turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 )

Row 7 : 1dc in same space as beg ch4 ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; * 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of next V-st , making sure you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales from previous row ; ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale * ; repeat from * to * once ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 to turn . ( 7 V-st on row 7 )

Row 8 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; * skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; ch1 * ; repeat from * to * once ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; ch4 to turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : 1dc in same space as beg ch4 ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; * 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of next V-st , making sure you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales from previous row ; ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale * ; repeat from * to * twice ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 to turn .( 9 V-st on row 9 )

Row 10 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; * skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; ch1 * ; repeat from * to * twice ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

At this point , you should take a look at the size of the triangle you made so far to make sure it fits your arm . To do verify this , wrap the triangle around your wrist . Are you able to join the ends of row 10 in one large ring ? If the triangle is too small , then you should work two extra rows , which will be a repeat of rows 9 and 10 , but making sure you enlarge the size of the triangle on the sides . If this is not neccessary , then continue the following steps for the size M mittens .

Row 11 : Join the last dc you just finished with top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the other side of row 10 with a slip stitch to form a ring ; ch4 ; 1dc in the same spacee as beg ch4 , between the two joined scales on the sides ; ch1 ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of V-st , making suree you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales * ; repeat from * to * around ;; ch1 ; join with third ch of beg ch4 with a slip stitch ; ch3 and do not turn . ( 11 V-st on row 11 )

Row 12 : Working from top to bottom , make 4dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; * ch1 ; skip next V-st ; 1 crocodile scale around next V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; ch1 ; join with top of beg ch3 of the first executed scale with a slip stitch ; do not turn . ( 6 crocodile scales on row 12 )

Row 13 : Ch4 and work 1dc in same space , making sure you insert your hook in the middle of the V-st on the back of the work , grabing the ch1 between the two scales on the front as well ; ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; * ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the midle of next V-st , making sure you also grab and crochet around the ch1 between the two scales as well ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale * ; repeat from * to * around ; ch1 ; join with third ch of beeg ch4 with a slip stitch ; ch3 . ( 11 V-st on row 13 )

Row 14 : Working from top to bottom , make 4dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; * ch1 ; skip next V-st ; 1 crocodile scale around next V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; ch1 ; join with top of beg ch3 of the first executed scale with a slip stitch ; do not turn . ( 6 crocodile scales on row 14 )

Repeat rows 13 and 14 as many times as you like , in case you prefer your mittens to b shorter or longer . I stopped at row 36 . To end your work , please add an extra row of sc around . This is important because it secures your work properly and helps avoid your work to loosen up with time .

So that’s it , folks ! Was it hard ? I am sure it wasn’t at all , since even I was able to crochet this pair of mittens and I do not see ! Despite my disability , I would be very happy if you shared your pictures with your finished mittens on our Facebook page . You can find it on the sidebar .

My sister , Ana Maria , did all the photo shooting , correcting the errors in my written instructions and many more . Like translating the pattern in our native language , Romanian .

In case , you should also take a look at the patterns on how to crochet a scarf and a hat using the crocodile stitch , just so that you have the full set of accessories for the upcoming fall season !

Happy crocheting !

May 082018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

Welcome once again to a new photo tutorial that my sister , Ana Maria , and I put together for you . Today’s written instructions follow the series of photo tutorials for the most basic crochet stitches which , if mastered , will allow you to experiment all sorts of other crochet stitches , from the simplest to more advanced and complicated stitches . Today we will show you how to crochet the half double crochet stitch . If you prefer video instructions instead , you can follow my old tutorial on my crochet channel on YouTube that you can find bellow .

The half double crochet stitch is a stitch between the single crochet stitch and the double crochet stitch . Practically it looks like an elongated single crochet stitch or like a reduced double crochet stitch . Even as a beginner crocheter , you should be already familiar with terms like loops and chains which will be used frequently throughout the pattern . Our photo tutorial will show you lots of illustrative images in order to give you sufficient visual support while you practice the written instructions .

How To Crochet The Half Double Crochet Stitch by coolorful.com

The half double crochet stitch is abbreviated as hdc in most patterns . YO is the abbreviation for yarn over hook .

Let’s begin learning this basic stitch on a smaller sample . While you practice this stitch and you feel more comfortable crocheting it , keeping your tension steady , you can commit yourself to a larger project . Let’s start with 10 hdcs at the moment . To get 10hdc on first row , chain 12 .

How To Crochet The Half Double Crochet Stitch by coolorful.com

Row 1 : Skip first 2ch from the hook ( these 2 chains count as the first hdc ) ; * YO once ( now you have two loops on the hook ) , insert your hook in the third chain from the hook , YO once and pull the yarn through the chain of the foundation chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO one last time and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook to complete your first hdc * ( see images bellow )

Let’s do a second hdc on first row . * YO once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in next chain of the foundation chain , YO once and pull the yarn through the foundation chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO one last time and pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook to complete a new hdc * . ( see next photos )

Continue working the next 7hdc following the instructions given between * and * . Don’t forget that the first 2ch we skipped at the beginning of the row count as a hdc . The following images will show you a repeat of the previous given steps and are meant to help you practice . They will also show you how to finish the first row . At the end of this row , chain 2 to turn ( these two chains also count as a hdc on 2nd row ) .

Row 2 : * Yo once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in the second hdc , bellow the two loops which are visible in the images , YO once and pull the yarn through the hdc ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO again and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook * .

Let’s repeat these steps to crochet a new hdc on second row . * YO once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in next chain , bellow the two loops at the top , YO once and pull the yarn through the chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO again and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook * .

Don’t forget that the beginning chain 2 counts as a first hdc on second row . So we have three hdc completed on second row . Now repeat the given instructions between * and * 6 more times , 9 hdc in total . See next images for visual help .

How To Crochet The Half Double Crochet Stitch by coolorful.com

To crochet the last hdc on second row you should do as follows : * YO once ( now you have two loops on your hook ) , insert your hook in top of beginning chain , YO and pull the yarn through the chain ( now you have three loops on your hook ) , YO one last time and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook * . ( see next images )

That is about it with the half double crochet stitch . To continue your work , you need to repeat second row as many times as necessary . The next given photos will show you more completed rows of the hdc .

Notes :

1. I know that this stitch tends to turn really ugly on the sides because of the beginning chain 2 which is replacing a normal hdc at the beginning of a row . There are different techniques to add pretty edges when a project is nearly finished . I will compile an article with possible ways to add pretty edges in the future .

2. Also , many people ask for instructions on how to increase or decrease the hdc either on the sides or across a row . This is also going to be shown in a next article .

Happy learning , everyone ,
The Coolorburbians .

Apr 302018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

Glad to meet you once again for a catch up on my crochet blog . I’ve been abusing the crocodile stitch quite a lot lately to make baby blankets , pillow cases , shawls , hats , scarves and mittens . Up until the moment my inner voice whispered to me that I should give the shell stitch a try because it might surprise me at how easy it is to crochet it . And so I did and let me tell you that it was quite fun to relearn it . So here are the written instructions for this lovely stitch . They will include a slight modification in the pattern in comparison to the instructions shown in the video tutorial posted on my old YouTube Channel that you can find here .

I did so because I still find quite difficult to crochet a foundation chain and work a stitch across the foundation chain . What I did here was to add an extra row of single crochet stitches at the beginning for a more solid foundation . Let’s get started .

How to crochet the Shell Stitch by coolorful.com

Abbreviations :

ch – chain ;

sc – single crochet stitch ;

dc – double crochet stitch .

Level : beginner .

Usage : blankets , pillow cases , cardigans , sweaters , purses , etc.

Make a foundation chain from a multiple of 6 plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern . Crochet an extra row of sc across the foundation chain to make it more solid and give your item a nicer look .

Row 1 : Work 1sc in the first sc ; * skip next 2sc ; work 5dc in the next sc ; skip next 2sc ; 1sc in the next sc * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure that you end up the row with a sc in the last sc from previous row ; ch3 to turn ( counts as a dc here and throughout ) .

Row 2 : Work 2dc in the last sc from previous row ; * skip next 2dc ; 1sc in top of the third dc from the set of 5dc from previous row ; skip next 2dc ; 5dc in next sc * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; skip next 2dc ; 1sc in next dc ; skip next 2dc ; 3dc in last sc from previous row ; ch1 to turn .

Row 3 : Work 1sc in top of first dc from the set of 3dc from previous row ; * skip next 2dc ; 5dc in the next sc ; skip next 2dc ; 1sc in top of the third dc from the set of 5dc * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with 1sc in top of beg ch3 on the side from previous row ; ch3 to turn .

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern .

That is about all with the crochet shell stitch . Don’t forget to like and share this pattern if you found it helpful . Also , don’t forget to share images of your work on the Facebook page that my sister , Ana Maria , and I manage . You can find it in the sidebar .

Happy shell-ing , everyone !!

Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians)

Mar 232018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

The photo tutorial on how to crochet the single crochet stitch was originally published in late 2013 , but the written instructions were lost during the time spent in the hospital , when I did not renew the hosting for this website . So the photos have been pending and waiting in my old computer for more than 4 years for me to repost them . So what I will try to do is give the steps on how to crochet the single crochet stitch while my sister will try to synchronize the photos to my instructions .

The single crochet stitch is one of the basic stitches in the art of crocheting , along with the half double crochet stitch , the double crochet stitch , the triple crochet stitch , the slip stitch and obviously , the foundation chain . If you know these simple stitches , then you will know how to crochet many other stitches , fancier and more complicated patterns .

The Single Crochet Stitch Written Instructions

The single crochet stitch is abbreviated as sc in all crochet patterns . It is necessary that you also learn that the term “yarn over hook” is abbreviated as YO . Also note that the term “loop” will be used quite often . I remember showing all these loops and YOs extensively in the photos . To begin learning this stitch I recommend that you try it on a smaller swatch before committing yourself to a larger project . So let’s give the single crochet stitch a try .

There is a small particularity to this stitch . No matter the number of single crochet stitches you want to make on your first row , you will always need to add an extra chain to the foundation chain to complete your desired number of stitches . So if you want to have 20 sc on row 1 , then you will need to chain 21 chains for your foundation chain . But let’s try working 10 sc on a few rows together .

Therefore chain 11 , as seen in the image bellow .

The Single Crochet Stitch Written Instructions

Row 1 : There is already a loop on the hook which is visible in the photo; to crochet the first single crochet stitch , insert your hook in the very first chain of the foundation chain which is also called “first chain from the hook” ; YO once and pull the yarn through the chain of the foundation chain ; now you have two loops on your hook ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both loops on your hook ; that’s it , you just completed your first single crochet stitch . ( see images bellow )

Let’s crochet another stitch together : there is already a loop on your hook ; insert your hook in the next chain of the foundation chain ; YO once and pull the yarn through the chain of the foundation chain ; you have two loops on your hook ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on the hook to complete the second single crochet stitch on row 1 , as you can see in the images bellow .

Repeat the following steps to complete 10 sc in total on this first row : * insert hook in next chain of the foundation chain ; YO once and pull the yarn through the chain ; you have two loops on your hook now ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on your hook to complete another single crochet stitch * . At the end of this first row don’t forget to chain 1 to move on to the next row , which is a step that needs repeated here and throughout . ( see images bellow )

The first row was completed on the right side of the project , whereas the second one will be executed on the back side (also called the wrong side), so at this point you need to turn the project on the other side . Take a look at how the stitches look on row 1 . Notice that every stitch has two loops on top , one in front and the other on the back of your work , as you can see in the image bellow .

The Single Crochet Stitch Written Instructions

Row 2 : To crochet the first single crochet stitch on this row work as follows : there is already a loop on your hook from previous row ; insert your hook in the first sc from row 1 , bellow the two loops pointed out earlier ; YO once and pull the yarn through sc ; you have two loops on the hook now ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on the hook ; now you have a first sc on row 2 and a loop on the hook . ( see images bellow )

Let’s try again for a second sc : insert your hook in the next sc , bellow the two loops of the respective stitch ; YO once and pull the yarn through the sc , bellow the two loops ; now you have two loops on your hook ; YO once again and pull the yarn through both the loops on the hook to complete the second sc ; you now have one loop on your hook . ( see images bellow )

Repeat the steps written earlier to complete the whole set of 10 sc on row 2 . Take a look at the following photos to make sure you don’t lose track along the way , especially at the end of the row . At this point you surely should remember to crochet a chain at the end of this row which is necessary to move on to the next row . Lastly ,turn to the other side of the project , which is now the right side . ( see gallery bellow )

Guys , that’s about it with the single crochet stitch . From now on each row is only a repeat of the second row , which I am sure you already know how to crochet . But to make sure you have visual support in learning this basic stitch you can continue following the gallery bellow which shows a few more completed rows .

Alternatively , you can also take a look at my old video tutorial on my crochet YouTube channel that teaches you how to crochet the single crochet stitch in a few minutes .

I hope this helps . Don’t forget to like and share if you found my instructions useful .

Happy hooking , dear fellow crocheters,

Cătătlina (from The Coolorburbians)

Feb 272018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I am so glad you came across my new pattern that will show you how to crochet a combination of single crochet stitches , double crochet stitches , chain spaces and clusters . Please note that the following instructions do not teach you how to crochet an actual pattern for an item , but it will guide you in the usage of the cluster stitch in a pattern . It is up to you how and where you are going to use the following combination of stitches .

How to crochet a combination of single crochet, double crochet and cluster stitches

Level: intermediate.

Abbreviations and how to :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

YO – yarn over ;

cluster – combination of 3dc only partially completed , worked in the same space recommended in the instructions ; ( YO , insert hook in sp recommended , YO and pull out a loop , YO and pull a loop through first two loops on the hook , do not complete the double crochet as usual , two loops left on the hook ) X 3 times ; YO and pull out a loop through all 4 loops on the hook .

Work a loose foundation chain from a multiple of 6 chains , plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern .

Row 1 : Work 1sc in the 2nd ch of the foundation chain ; * skip next 2ch of the foundation chain ; work ( cluster , 3ch , cluster ) in the next ch of the foundation chain ; 1ch ; skip next 2ch of the foundation chain ; 1sc in the next ch of the foundation chain * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; ch4 ; turn .

Row 2 : Work 1dc in the last 1sc on the side from previous row ; * skip next set of ( cluster , 3ch , cluster ) ; in the next 1sc work a set of ( 1dc , 4ch , 1dc ) * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; work a set of ( 1dc , 1ch , 1dc ) in the 1sc on the side from previous row ; 1ch ; turn .

Row 3 : Work 1sc in the last 1dc on the side from previous row ; * in the next 1dc work a set of ( cluster , 3ch , cluster ))) ; 1ch ; 1sc in the next ch-4 sp from previous row * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1sc in the beg ch4 on the side ; 4ch ; turn .

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern .

That is all , dear friends . Please let me know how you used these instructions and post photos of your crocheted items on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar . Also you can try out our patterns in the many categories on our site . Thank you for sharing our work with other artsy people as well .

Happy hooking,
The Coolorburbians

Feb 222018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I decided to put together a few steps and instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to any type of shawl in a separate article rather then write them down in a pattern that can get lost in the dozens that I dream to write in the future . This is for a better management of this website . Also I believe that you will find my tips a lot easier while browsing around the instructions , articles and patterns . So let’s see how this is going to go .

Making the tassels and attaching them to a shawl or blanket is no longer my job now that I no longer see . Now it falls into my sister’s or mother’s attributions, who are of great help when it comes to such delicate issues , such as measuring , cutting , sewing and so on . I remember that making the tassels for a shawl wasn’t my favorite part in the crochet business even before the stroke . This is mostly because I was never able to get the tassels completely right . They were always too short and thick or far too long and thin . But crocheting over 50 shawls and 5 blankets in the last 2 years gave me , my sister and my mother the opportunity to find a formula to make these tassels to suit our taste . Please be advised that our taste may not be your taste at all . However , I am still writing a few tips if you wish to follow and learn from our experience .

Tips :

1. The most common issue you will face when making tassels is related to the amount of yarn you are going to use to finish them . Of course , this depends greatly on the type of shawl you would like to crochet . Is it long and large ? Is it smaller , similar to a scarf ? Here is where personal preferences take action . I absolutely love extra large shawls that you can wrap all around yourself , especially during chilly , cold evenings in spring or fall . Which is why I changed my taste to long and thick tassels as well , which require a lot more yarn and a bit of extra work too . Sure , I understand the purpose of small shawls and scarves as well, which I believe should have shorter tassels . Decide right at this instant whether you are going to crochet a small shawl or a large one .

2. With first step in mind , teach yourself to always buy an extra skein of yarn or even two when you decide to begin a large project . This was nearly always a fatal mistake I made when I wanted to crochet shawls . I often got stingy over a few extra bucks that could have gotten me the right amount of yarn to complete the shawl as I would have liked it in the first place . So don’t get stingy either and buy that extra skein just to be on the safe side . Don’t worry over the leftover yarn . You are going to use it in future projects , such as granny square blankets , baby items and so on .

3. In time , I discovered that I prefer making the tassels using a different type of yarn than the one I used to crochet the main part of the shawl , especially if the main yarn is thick , chunky or bulky . Which is why I got into the habit of buying a few skeins of extra-fine or fine yarn that I can use to make extra thick tassels as well . However , this method requires a lot of patience since you are going to handle thin yarn .

Look at me , so much talking . Let’s get down to business . Besides the yarn you are going to need a pair of scissors , a centimeter and a larger crochet hook , around 7mm European size and above , depending on the type of yarn you are using .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

1. To make tassels that are 15-17 cm long , use your centimeter to measure 130-140 cm of the loose end of your skein . Cut using the pair of scissors . Continue cutting from the loose end until you have the necessary number of threads of yarn to complete the tassels . Don’t forget that a 50-raws shawl will require a double amount of tassels , in this case 100+1 in the tip of the shawl . Please be advised that this thread alone is not going to be enough . It will turn into a long and thin tassel . If you prefer them this way , then you should stop cutting more threads . Otherwise , please continue cutting . I even used 3 such threads to complete one tassel . There were 100 tassels in total . That means that I had to cut 300 threads in total, with one being 140 cm, that means that you will need 420m to complete the tassels, if you choose to make them this thick.

2. There were times when my mom used 1+1/2 threads , 2 or 3 threads to make a tassel . Once again , you need to have a lot of patience to do this work .

3. Now let’s combine 2 threads together . Fold them once . You will have 4 long loose ends . Fold them again . You will have 8 loose ends . Fold the tassel once more . Now you have 16 loose ends . Bellow you will see a list of other ways to get the thickness of the tassels .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

A. If you use one thread , you will get 8 loose ends .

B. If you use one thread and a half , you will get 12 loose ends . My mom even used one thread and a quarter to get 10 loose ends , especially when the yarn was limited . this is the reason why I suggested that you got plenty of yarn to avoid all this extra work of cutting small bits of thread .

C. If you use 2 threads you will get 16 loose ends .

D. If you use 3 threads , you will get 24 loose ends . This point is one of my favorite , but mostly when using thin yarn . Otherwise , I choose to combine 2 threads .

E. My sister alternated the number the threads to complete the shawls in the imagine bellow. She combined a tassel with two threads with a tassel with three threads, resulting in a combination of thinner and thicker tassels, just to try a new method.

F. For the next colorful shawl, my mom used a crazy combination of threads. She was so brave to cut 30cm long threads from 5-7 colors and mixed all of them together to make multicolored tassels.

The choice is up to you.

4. With the 2 threads equally folded 3 times , giving you 16 loose ends , make sure you make the middle of the tassel as visible as possible . This space in the middle should look like one giant loop .

5. Insert the recommended crochet hook earlier in the chain space where you need to attach the tassel ( the chain 1 space between the shells in the case of a granny shawl , or the chain 1 space right in the middle of a crocodile scale , as seen in the case bellow ) Make sure your shawl is facing the front side and that you are inserting the hook from bottom to up .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.1

6. Insert the hook in the middle of the tassel , right in the giant loop . Be careful when grabbing this loop . Make sure you don’t lose any loose ends . Pull the loop through the chain space .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.2

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.3

7. This is the hardest part . Even though what you are doing is nothing else but a knot , it is a bit awkward to handle because of the large size . Which is why I recommended that you use a big hook as well .

8. Now you have a giant loop on your hook . Don’t make this loop too tight . There is one last step that needs completed . Yarn over hook once , wrapping the whole threads together around the hook in one go . Now you have a new loop on your hook . Pull this secondary loop through the first loop on your hook which , once again , should not be too tight . Continue pulling until all loose ends went through the loop and the tassel is attached to the shawl in the space recommended in the instructions .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.4

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.5

9. You can adjust the loose ends to look equal between them . Use the pair of scissors to cut the ends of the tassels .

Adding Tassels To A Shawl

Imag.6

Well , that is all . I sort of scared you , didn’t I ? I did not mean to . It is just that making these tassels was simply not my favorite part in the past . But to be honest , I absolutely love a shawl with tassels . So do you know what ? I think I got over the unpleasantry . My advice to you is to practice making these tassels until you master them .

If you prefer the video instructions, you can watch the video tutorial bellow.

Of course , there are more methods of making tassels , some easier , some more difficult . However , this is currently my preferred method . However I will add other methods in this article in the future , when time and imagination allow me to . I hope my instructions are of help . You can also contribute with other tips and techniques in the comment section bellow .

Happy cutting and tasseling , everyone .
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians)

Feb 092018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

There are many variations to the crocodile crochet stitch and even more applications and ways to use it to make all sorts of items , from blankets , pillow cases , hats , mittens , shawls , cardigans and so many more . I am currently experimenting with these variations to create patterns for small items just to keep my hands and imagination busy . Let me remind you that I lost my sight in November 2013 after suffering a stroke that I wrote about on my personal blog . You can read the story here . But let’s go back to the crocodile stitch . I put together a video tutorial on how to crochet the crocodile stitch that you can follow bellow .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

However , today’s instructions will show you a variation of this beautiful crochet stitch . Why is that ? It is easier for me to use this variation because of the extra chain 1 spaces . Since I no longer see , I need to use my touching quite a lot to figure out a pattern . Which is why I prefer the lacey stitches a lot more rather than the solid block stitches . Thankfully , the crocodile stitch falls under the first category which I like . So now let me explain to you how I was able to crochet the crocodile shawl that you can see in the images bellow , even though I don’t see . If you prefer visual instructions , you can follow my video tutorial on YouTube on how to crochet this type of shawl that I made shortly before the stroke . As far as I remember , the video also uses a small variation of the stitch . Either way will work just fine .

Information about the materials and tools needed :

1. I used 13 skeins of superfine yarn for the entire project , including the tassels , which I prefer long and thick . I wanted to make a large crocodile shawl because this is how I like them better , long and large . Which is why I used so many skeins of yarn . But if you want to make a scarf or a smaller shawl , then you should get 8 skeins . The information on the label is as follows : 50g (1,76 oz), 255m (~ 278yds), 71% acrylic, 24% wool, 5% metallic yarn, needle 2.50mm.

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook , even though the label on the yarn recommends using a smaller size . I chose the 6 mm one because I can’t really hold a smaller hook in my hand . Blind people usually tend to work with big hooks and needles and bulky wool . I should admit that making this shawl was a dare . But the result turned out beautifully , which is why I couldn’t care less about all that effort , sweat , blood and tears .

3. It took me approximately 2 weeks to finish this shawl , with an average of one skein per day used .

4. Sizes: Width= 200cm (78,74 inch), Height= 82cm (32,38 inch), Sides= 128cm (50 inch), Tassels= 17cm (6,7 inch).

Abbreviations and how tos :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stictch;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in space recommended and work 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

The shawl will be worked in rows , with the start at the tip of the shawl . It will grow in size on each row , on the edges . Which is why I am only going to explain how to crochet the first rows , the rest of them being a repeat of these first , making sure you add the necessary stitches on the sides to enlarge your shawl .

Row 1 and row 2 : Ch5 ; join with beg ch with sl st to form a ring ; ch 1 ; 5dc in ring ; ch1 ; 5dc in ring ; turn .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.1

Row 3 : Ch4 ( counts as 1dc+ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same space as ch-4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale from previous row ; V-st in top of the first dc on one of the sides of the scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 3 V-st on row 3, see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.2

Row 4 : 1scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1scale around last V-st ; turn . ( 2 scales on row 4 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.3

Row 5 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; V-st in next ch1 sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on one of the sides of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.4

Row 6 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.5

Row 7 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * once ; v-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of last scale from previous row ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 7 V-sts on row 7 )

Row 8 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; * repeat fromm * to * once ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the two scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 9 V-sts on row 9 )

Row 10 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last V-st on the side from previous row ; turn . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

Rows 11-110 : Repeat rows 9-10 , making sure you enlarge the shawl on the sides , as explained and shown in the previous paragraphs .

Row 111 : 1sc in each chain space and stitch from rows 109 and 110 , making sure you grab and crochet around the spaces between the scales and in the middle of the scales from previous row as well / This row is necessary for a stronger foundation when you finish the shawl .

This is about it . Trust me when I say this , the pattern is not complicated at all . And the crocodile stitch is a lot easier to execute than it meets the eye . Even *I* was able to make it and I don’t see . I wrote the instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to a shawl in a different article for a better management of this website . You can find it here . I hope my instructions are of help to you and that you now have a long and gorgeous shawl wrapped around yourself for the upcoming spring . Please share photos of your work on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians) .