The Coolorburbians

Feb 092018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

There are many variations to the crocodile crochet stitch and even more applications and ways to use it to make all sorts of items , from blankets , pillow cases , hats , mittens , shawls , cardigans and so many more . I am currently experimenting with these variations to create patterns for small items just to keep my hands and imagination busy . Let me remind you that I lost my sight in November 2013 after suffering a stroke that I wrote about on my personal blog . You can read the story here . But let’s go back to the crocodile stitch . I put together a video tutorial on how to crochet the crocodile stitch that you can follow bellow .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

However , today’s instructions will show you a variation of this beautiful crochet stitch . Why is that ? It is easier for me to use this variation because of the extra chain 1 spaces . Since I no longer see , I need to use my touching quite a lot to figure out a pattern . Which is why I prefer the lacey stitches a lot more rather than the solid block stitches . Thankfully , the crocodile stitch falls under the first category which I like . So now let me explain to you how I was able to crochet the crocodile shawl that you can see in the images bellow , even though I don’t see . If you prefer visual instructions , you can follow my video tutorial on YouTube on how to crochet this type of shawl that I made shortly before the stroke . As far as I remember , the video also uses a small variation of the stitch . Either way will work just fine .

Information about the materials and tools needed :

1. I used 13 skeins of superfine yarn for the entire project , including the tassels , which I prefer long and thick . I wanted to make a large crocodile shawl because this is how I like them better , long and large . Which is why I used so many skeins of yarn . But if you want to make a scarf or a smaller shawl , then you should get 8 skeins . The information on the label is as follows : 50g (1,76 oz), 255m (~ 278yds), 71% acrylic, 24% wool, 5% metallic yarn, needle 2.50mm.

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook , even though the label on the yarn recommends using a smaller size . I chose the 6 mm one because I can’t really hold a smaller hook in my hand . Blind people usually tend to work with big hooks and needles and bulky wool . I should admit that making this shawl was a dare . But the result turned out beautifully , which is why I couldn’t care less about all that effort , sweat , blood and tears .

3. It took me approximately 2 weeks to finish this shawl , with an average of one skein per day used .

4. Sizes: Width= 200cm (78,74 inch), Height= 82cm (32,38 inch), Sides= 128cm (50 inch), Tassels= 17cm (6,7 inch).

Abbreviations and how tos :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stictch;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in space recommended and work 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

The shawl will be worked in rows , with the start at the tip of the shawl . It will grow in size on each row , on the edges . Which is why I am only going to explain how to crochet the first rows , the rest of them being a repeat of these first , making sure you add the necessary stitches on the sides to enlarge your shawl .

Row 1 and row 2 : Ch5 ; join with beg ch with sl st to form a ring ; ch 1 ; 5dc in ring ; ch1 ; 5dc in ring ; turn .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.1

Row 3 : Ch4 ( counts as 1dc+ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same space as ch-4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale from previous row ; V-st in top of the first dc on one of the sides of the scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 3 V-st on row 3, see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.2

Row 4 : 1scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1scale around last V-st ; turn . ( 2 scales on row 4 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.3

Row 5 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; V-st in next ch1 sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on one of the sides of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.4

Row 6 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.5

Row 7 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * once ; v-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of last scale from previous row ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 7 V-sts on row 7 )

Row 8 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; * repeat fromm * to * once ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the two scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 9 V-sts on row 9 )

Row 10 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last V-st on the side from previous row ; turn . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

Rows 11-110 : Repeat rows 9-10 , making sure you enlarge the shawl on the sides , as explained and shown in the previous paragraphs .

Row 111 : 1sc in each chain space and stitch from rows 109 and 110 , making sure you grab and crochet around the spaces between the scales and in the middle of the scales from previous row as well / This row is necessary for a stronger foundation when you finish the shawl .

This is about it . Trust me when I say this , the pattern is not complicated at all . And the crocodile stitch is a lot easier to execute than it meets the eye . Even *I* was able to make it and I don’t see . I wrote the instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to a shawl in a different article for a better management of this website . You can find it here . I hope my instructions are of help to you and that you now have a long and gorgeous shawl wrapped around yourself for the upcoming spring . Please share photos of your work on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians) .

Jan 182018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I am so happy you are showing interest in following my instructions on how to crochet a pillow case for a baby or child using the crocodile stitch that I re-learned recently and that I love so much since it gives me the opportunity to crochet more complicated patterns and fancier stitches . If you did not reach these instructions following my previous on how to crochet a baby blanket using the crocodile stitch , then please take a look at the respective article since it includes important details about this stitch , materials and tools needed and so on . You can find this pattern here .

Crocodile Pillow Case Coolorful

Let’s recap a few things :

1. I used 14 colors in total for one type of pillow case and a mix of 4 shades of blue and white for the baby boy pillow case . Most of the yarn that I used was leftover yarn from the 28-30 skeins that I bought to complete the whole project altogether . That means a baby blanket and two pillow cases . If you prefer crocheting only the pillow case , I still recommend that you get plenty of yarn in case you decide to make it bright and colorful . For example 14 skeins of different colors are enough to make two pillow cases , but only if you change the colors between them to make the best of your yarn work . Whereas for the blue pillow case I used 4 shades of blue and 6 skeins of white to complete both my pillow cases . It is still a continuous effort for me to discover the right amount of yarn needed to end a crochet project .

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook .

3. It took me approximately 4 days to make one pillow case .

4. One pillow case is 30cmx30cm (12inch x12inch)

5. The following information is a repeat of one of the points described in my previous pattern on how to crochet a baby blanket, but it is mandatory that you decide beforehand how you want to combine the colors, since you do not want your pillow case to turn either too wide or too long. So this is how I mixed my colors:

Baby girl pillow case:

A-B-C-D-E-F-G/ H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G

H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G/ H-I-J-K-L-M-N

Baby boy pillow case:

A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A

Abbreviations and how to :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stitch ;

sc – single crochet stitch ;

dc – double crochet stitch ;

IR – in round ( this pattern is executed in rounds with no sewing whatsoever , since sewing is a procedure I would not be able to make since I am blind ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next set of 2dc, ch 1, turn work so the set of 2dc is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of the set, work 5 dc.

Let’s get started!

With your first choice of color , chain 49 ; 1sc in each chain across the foundation chain on both sides of the chain ; that means that you will have 48 sc on one side and 48 sc on the other side of the foundation chain . Please count your stitches and make sure you have 96 sc in total ; join with sl st in first sc to complete the foundation of your pillow case .

Round 1 : ch 3 ( counts as a dc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same sc as beg ch3 ; ch2 ; skip next 2sc ; * 2dc in next sc ; ch 2 ; skip next 2sc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with sl st in top of beg ch3, do not turn (32 sets of 2dc) .

*Note: please be aware that you need to have 16 sets of 2 dc on one side of the foundation chain and 16 on the other side; when you finish the last set of 2dc on one side you need to have 2sc remaining at the end of one side you need that you need to skip; turn your work on the other side of the foundation chain and repeat the instructions from this note.

Round 2 : Ch3 ; working from top to bottom , 4dc around the beg ch3 from previous round ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top 5dc around the second dc from previous round ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with sl st in top of beg ch3 of the first scale ; cut the yarn and fasten off (16 scales in total) .

Round 3 : Attach your next choice of color with a sl st between the two dc of any available set of 2dc from previous round ; ch3 ; 1dc in same space as ch3 , making sure you grab the ch-1 sp between the 2 scales from previous round and crochet around it as well ; ch2 ; * 2dc in next ch sp in the middle of next scale ; ch2 ; 2dc between the next set of 2dc , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the 2 scales from previous round as well ; ch2 * ; repeat from * to * around ; join in top of beg ch3 with sl st (32 sets of 2dc in total)

Round 4 : Ch3 ; working from top to bottom , 4dc around the beg ch3 from previous round ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top 5dc around the second dc from previous round ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch1 ; skip next set of 2dc * ; repeat from * to * around ; join with sl st in top of beg ch3 of the first scale ; cut the yarn and fasten off (16 scales in total) .

Round 5-42 : Repeat round 3 and 4 , making sure you alternate between your desired colors .

Round 43 : Do not cut the yarn on round 42 ; crochet one last round of sc in each stitch and chain from previous round , making sure you crochet around the ch1 sps between the scales and in the sps in the middle of the scales as well ; 96 sc in total ;do not cut the yarn yet, as you will need to sew the pillow.

Crocodile Pillow Case Coolorful

Sew all the loose ends around the crocodile scales to conceal them better .

Methods to sew the pillow case:

1. Do not cut the yarn on round 43 of sc; insert your pillow in the pillow case; use the yarn to crochet sl st along this last round of sc to finish the pillow case.; alternatively, you can cut the yarn but leave a long tail and simply sew across this last round of sc.

2. With the left-over yarn, braid a lace, approximately 50cm long; insert it throughout the chain spaces across the last round of crocodile scales; pull the lace softly while inserting, in the same way as you would do your shoelaces; knot a ribbon at the end.
Crocodile Pillow Case Coolorful

Shades of Blue and White Crocodile Baby Blanket by Coolorful

And there you have it . Two beautiful small sized pillow cases for your children or even for yourself , if you decide to use the pillows as decor in your living room or bedroom . I hope you are enjoying your new finished items and that you are pleased with my instructions . If you find any details that sound unclear or confusing , please write them down to me in a comment bellow this article . I will add the corrections afterwards .

And one last thing . Please add photos of your crocodile baby blankets and pillow cases on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
The Coolorburbians.

Jan 132018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit I grew very fond of the granny on the straight stitch that I used since I began crocheting again in March 2016 . To those of you who are reading my blog for the first time , I should repeat this bit of information about my life . I suffered a stroke in late November 2013 after which I became blind and partially deaf . I used to crochet on an advanced level before the stroke , but the permanent blindness that I am facing cut my crocheting passion short . I now am somewhere below a beginner crocheter since I have to make every step and stitch through touching with the visual help being a valuable commodity that I currently do not afford . But in March 2016 I got into the habit of crocheting once again , though all my work since that moment relied solely on the granny on the straight stitch that I found so easy to use with all the chain 1 spaces and somewhat lacey aspect that this stitch has . In time , I was no longer able to fool the little artist in me . My fingers were aching to try new stitches and patterns , despite my fear and frustration . I really used to be an advanced crocheter and loved the Tunisian stitches the most , stitches that I currently find impossible to make . But so I thought about the crocodile crochet stitch less than 4 months ago , when I gave it a try . And guess what , everyone ? I did a fabulous job crocheting two baby blankets and three pillow cases . One set is for a girl , the other one is for a baby boy . Come to think about it , the two blankets are for about 12-18 months old children . In any case , I thought to put together the instructions that will help you crochet similar pieces for your children , relatives or possible clients .

Things you need to know about the stitch and materials needed :

1. I used 28 skeins of 100% micropolyester Baby Softy yarn from Alize, wash by hand, 50g (1.76 oz.), 115m (126 yds) , as shown in the image bellow . They were enough to complete the blanket and the pillow cases .

Colorful Crocodile Crochet Baby Blanket By Coolorful

2. I used a mix of 14 colors for the girl blanket and a mix of white and four shades of blue for the boy blanket . Feel free to use whatever colors you prefer , but make sure you have sufficient quantity to finish your project .

3. Buying the necessary amount of yarn depends on the type of crochet hook you will use to crochet the crocodile set . I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook . It also depends on the type of stitches and tension in your work . For example , my mother tends to crochet large stitches , so she would need a larger quantity of yarn as well , whereas my sister and I tend to make our stitches tightly , giving them a smaller look .

4. This means that the following measurements that I am going to give you are only an approximation . Please take into consideration your own crochet habits before embarking on working on this project .

The Baby Girl Crocodile Crochet Blanket: Width: 90cm; Length: 100cm

The Baby Boy Crocodile Crochet Blanket: Width: 94cm ; Length: 98cm

5. It took me about 18 days to complete the whole set of blanket plus two pillow cases , but then again I have a tremendous amount of free time on my hands . However I averaged on around five rows per day .

6. Even though I will try my best to explain the crocodile stitch as best as possible , you could take a look at my old tutorial on YouTube that I posted on my crochet channel before the stroke that you can find at the following link . Please note that the tutorial is split in a few parts , giving you a lot of details and tips on how to crochet the crocodile stitch .

7. See the following diagram that I used to combine the colors:

Baby girl blanket: A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N / A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N / A-B-C-D-E-F-G – 2 skeins for each A to N colors (28 in total)

Baby boy blanket: A- white (16 skeins); B- 1st blue (3 skeins); C- 2nd bleu (3 skeins); D- 3rd bleu (3 skeins); E- 4th bleu (3 skeins) – 28 in total.

A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A

Abbreviations :

ch – chain

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space

beg ch – beginning chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet stitch

dc – double crochet stitch

How to crochet the crocodile scale : working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next set of 2dc, ch 1, turn work so the set of 2dc is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of the set, work 5 dc.

Level: easy, beginner.

Instructions :

Make a foundation chain of 122 chains ( the crocodile stitch is usually done in a multiple of 6 chains plus 4 extra chains to complete the pattern , but I used a small variation of the instructions for a more solid foundation , so I recommend that you do the same ) . Work 1sc in each ch across the foundation ch ( 121 sc in total ) .

Row 1 : Ch 3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same sc as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; skip next 2sc ; * 2dc in next sc ; ch 2 ; skip next 2 sc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; 2dc in last sc ; ch 1 and turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 1 )

Row 2 : 1 crocodile scale around first set of 2dc ; ch 1; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around next set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last set of 2dc ; cut the yarn and fasten off; turn . ( 21 crocodile scales on row 2 )

Row 3 : Attach new color in the middle of last scale from previous row with sl st ; ch 3 ; 1dc in same sp as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; * 2dc between the next 2dc from previous row , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the scales as well ; ch 2 ; 2dc in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with 2dc in the middle of last scale ; turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 3 )

Row 4 : Sl st between the two dc of the first set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; * 1 scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; sl st between the two dc of the last set of 2dc from previous row ; cut the yarn and fasten off , turn . (20 crocodile scales in total)

Row 5 : Attach new choice of color between the two dc of the last set of 2dc from row 3 with a sl st ; ch 3 ; 1dc in same space as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; * 2dc in the middle of the next scale ; ch 2 ; 2dc between the two dc of the next set of 2dc , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the scales as well ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with a set of 2dc in the last set of 2dc from row 3 ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 5 )

Row 6 : 1 scale around the first set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; * skip next set of 2dc ; 1 scale around next set of 2dc; ch 1* repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with a scale around the last set of 2dc ; cut the yarn and fasten off; turn. ( 21 scales on row 6 )

Rows 7-126 : Repeat rows 3-6 , alternating your color options as well to suit your personal taste the best .

Do not cut the yarn on row 126. 1sc in each stitch , chain and space , 121 sc in total . Knot all loose ends securely , sew them across the scales and cut the tails when you are done .

I split the instructions in two parts, making the pattern easier to follow. Please visit the article on how to crochet a crocodile pillow case for a baby or as a home decor here.

I hope my guidance is of help and that your kids will enjoy their new crocodile blankets.

Happy crocodiling,
The Coolorburbians.

Dec 222017
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit that I only began writing instructions for my crochet projects recently , after resuming my hand made hobby last year , in March . Putting these instructions together is a great adventure for me , since I still am unable to see , which means that I have to write down the steps using a lot of my imagination and visual memory . This is a marvelous thing happening to me since visualizing things is a recommended exercise for people who have lost their sight . So let’s see how this is going to go . Please address notes to me about any mistakes you may find throughout the instructions for a Christmas crocheted beret using the crocodile stitch as the main technique .

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Crocodile Stitch Beret

Materials and other information :

I used three skeins of yarn , one white and two reds and a 5.5 mm and a 4.5 mm European size crochet hooks , as seen in the image bellow . The yarn is 100% acrylic yarn , 75 grams per skein , 210 meters long , from a Romanian brand called ‘Adina’ . I recommend that you use similar materials , including the hook sizes for the instructions to work the best . If you prefer crocheting the crocodile beret in one color , I still suggest that you get three skeins of your preferred color . Better be safe than sorry . Besides that , you are going to need the remaining yarn to make the pompon . This is a pattern for beginner-intermediate crocheters . It took me three days to finish the beret , but then again things take me a little longer to complete . But if you are going to start like NOW , you may be over in time for Christmas with a beautiful beret that you can wear yourself or give away as a gift to someone dear .

The beret will fit a medium adult size. Unstretched, the headband is 51cm in circumference.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.1

Abbreviations and how-to’s :

ch – chain ;

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space ;

sl st – slip stitch ;

YO – yarn over

hdc – half double crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

hdc V-st– half double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1hdc , ch1 , 1hdc ) ;

dc V-st – double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1dc , ch1 , 1dc ) ;

fpdc – front post double crochet ( insert hook behind the next recommended stitch from right to left, as seen in the image bellow , making sure you YO once before this step ; twirl the hook and YO again , just like you would crochet a normal dc ; now you have three loops on your hook ; YO again and pull through first two loops on your hook ; YO one last time and pull through last two loops on your hook ; the dc should look as if pushed in front – see images bellow )

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc (see image bellow).

How to crochet the headband :

Begin with white and the 5.5 mm hook . Chain 13 .

Row 1 : Skip first 2ch ( they count as 1hdc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in each of next 10 chains ; 1hdc in last ch ; ch 2 ; turn .

Row 2 : 1fpdc in second dc from previous row ; 1fpdc in each of the next 9dc ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch2 ; turn .

Rows 3-56 : Begin in the second fpdc , 1fpdc in each fpdc across the row ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch 2 ( skip this last step when you get to row 56 ) ; turn .

Your headband should look like mine , as seen in the image bellow . Each row of the crocheted headband has 12 stitches , 10 of which are fpdc and 2 hdc on the sides.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.11

If you are going to switch the color into the red one , then please cut the yarn , leaving about a 10 cm long tail for sewing , . If you continue working the beret using the same color , then please use sl st to join the two sides together, as shown in image bellow.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.12

How to crochet the main part of the beret:

Turn the headband on one side. You will work in rounds from now on.

Round 1 : Attach the red color in any ch2 on side of the beret you chose with a sl st ; ch 4 ( counts as 1dc and a ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same ch2 as the previous ch4 ; * skip next hdc on the side ; dc V-st in next ch2 * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last hdc on the side ; join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch4 with sl st . ( 28 dc V-st in total , see image bellow ); do not turn.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.13

Round 2 : Ch3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; working from top to bottom around post of first dc of first V-st , work 4dc ; ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down (V point of V-st will be facing right); working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc ; * skip next dc V-st ; 1 scale around the next dc V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last dc V-st ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st ; do not turn . (14 scales in total)

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.14

Round 3 : Insert hook in the ch-1 sp between the two scales from previous row and work 1sc , making sure you crochet around both the ch-1 sp and the sp between the scales ; ch4 ; 1dc in same sp as ch4 ; * dc V-st in next ch-1 sp in the middle of the next scale ; dc V-st in the next ch-1 sp , making sure you crochet around the sp between the the two scales from previous row as well * ; repeat from * to * around ; dc V-st in last ch-1 sp in the middle of last scale ; join in the 3rd ch of ch4 with a sl st ; do not turn . (28 dc V-st in total)

Round 4 : repeat round 2 .

Rounds 5-22 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , alternating between them .

Rounds 23-24 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , but using the 4.5 mm crochet hook .

Round 25 : Repeat row 3 with the following notes : change beg ch4 with a ch3 ; change dc V-st with hdc V-st ; join in the second ch from the beg ch3 with a sl st ; use the same 4.5 mm crochet hook . (28 hdc V-sts in total)

Round 26 : Ch 2 (counts as a hdc); working from top to bottom around post of first hdc of first V-st, work 3 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down, working from bottom to top around post of second hdc of V-st, work 4 fphdc; * skip next hdc V-st; 1 hdc scale around next hdc V-st, making sure you crochet 4hdc around each hdc post instead of 5, like you did so far*; repeat from * to *; skip last hdc V-st; join with top of beg ch-2 with a sl st; do not turn. (14 smaller scales in total)

Round 27 : Repeat round 25 . Leave a long thread to use for sewing top of beret.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.15

Closing hat top: With yarn needle, thread tail through spaces of hdc V-sts of last round twice, pull gently to gather top tightly, and knot securely. (See following image)

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.16

How to make the pompon :
Wind yarn around a piece of hard cardboard 13cm long approx 150 times ( we used a plastic cover); tie tightly in the middle and leave a long end for attaching to hat; cut loops at both ends and trim to smooth round shape; sew securely to top of hat. See images below:

I hope you like it. Happy crocheting and
Merry Christmas,
The Coolorburbians.

Nov 252017
 

Dear Artsy&Crafts Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial I am going to show you how to crochet a colorful sweater using the Traditional Solid Granny Square, as shown in the picture below.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

You might think it is hard, but that’s not the case. So let’s get started.

Abbreviations:

ch- – chain
ch-X-sp – chain X space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner

Size: L, 40

Tips:

1. To make your sweater as colorful as possible, you will need a variety of colors. So make an inventory of all the leftover yarn or buy new ones. Or you can make it with as many colors as you want, even two or just one, in which case you won’t have to cut the yarn and fasten off the yarn as much. The instructions will be the same. All in all, you will need about 800 grams ( approx. 29 ounces) of yarn in total.

2. For this project, we used 100% light worsted acrylic yarn. If you use a thicker yarn, the size will differ.

3. You will need a 4mm EU size (7-I9), 5mm EU size, a pair of scissors, tape measurement, like in the photo below (imag.1).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.1

4. Try to keep a steady tension when crocheting the stitches to make the project look even and neat.

5. If you decide to work with multiple colors, be aware that you will have lots of loose ends. When working solid Granny squares, you will attach the new color as follows: make a knot, (imag. 2) join with sl st ]n ch-2-sp (imag. 3), which is the corner of the solid granny square. You will do the same when working the sleeves, chest or back.

6. Don’t forget to hide all the loose ends as you crochet ( imag. 4). If you leave them for later, it will be a lot more difficult and time consuming.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.4

7. You will crochet 2 big solid Granny squares, one for front, one for back. Each square will have 20 rows. When you finish working one square, you will add 15 rows of double crochet to each square to complete the chest and the back. Then, you will work the sleeves, an edge using the single crochet and, finally, the collar.

Having said that, let’s get to work.

Part 1: How to crochet the two solid Granny squares

Row 1: with first color work 2ch (imag.5); work [ 3dc in 1st ch; 2 h (imag.6,7)] x 4; join with sl st last ch-2 with first dc; cut the thread and fasten off; you will have: 3dc on each side, 12 dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp (which represent the corners of the square)(imag. 8)

Row 2: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp; work 3ch (this counts as a dc here and throughout); work 1dc in same ch-sp as the 3ch (imag. 9); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row (imag 10); * work [2dc, 2 ch, 2dc] in next ch-2-sp (imag. 11); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch -3 with sl st; cut the thread and fasten off . You will have: 7dc on each side, 28dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.12)

Row 3: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2-sp as 3ch (imag.13); work 1dc in each of next 7dc from previous row (imag. 14); * work [2dc, 2ch,2dc] in next ch-2sp, (imag. 15) and 1dc in each of the next 7 dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 11dc on each side, 44dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.(imag. 16)

Row 4: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 17), and 1dc in each of the 11dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.18), and 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 15dc on each side, 60dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.19)

Row 5: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 20), and 1dc in each of the 15dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.21), and 1dc in each of next 15dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 19dc on each side, 76dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.22)

The square will increase in size in the ch-2-sp corners which each row. Each side of the square will have 4 extra dc (16dc in total on each row). Following this principle and the instructions from the previous rows, please work the next 15 rows. To give you extra help, will count the number of dc for each row.

Row 6: you will have: 23dc on each side, 92dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 7: 27dc on each side, 108dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 8: 31dc on each side, 124dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 9: 35dc on each side, 140dc in total, 4ch-2-sp.

Row 10: 39dc on each side, 156dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag. 23)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.23

Row 11: 43dc on each side, 172dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 12: 47dc on each side, 188dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 13: 51dc on each side, 204 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 14: 55dc on each side, 220 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 15: 59dc on each side, 236 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 16: 63dc on each side, 252 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 17: 67dc on each side, 268 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 18: 71dc on each side, 284 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 19: 75dc on each side, 300 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 20: 79dc on each side, 316 in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.24)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.24

Part 2: How to crochet the chest and the back

The pattern is the same for both chest and back. You work the rows horizontically on either side of the squares.

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp ; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout)(imag. 25); work 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row of the square, 1dc in next ch-2-sp; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag.26,27)

Rows 2-15: join new color with sl st in last dc from previous row; work 3c, and 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag. 28, 29)

Part 3: How to join the front and the back

Join the two sides of the sweater, front and back, with sl st. Insert crochet hook in any ch-2-sp from opposite side of the one you worked the 15 rows, simultaneously in both squares and start to sl st. Insert hook in next dc, simultaneously in both squares and sl st. Repeat until end of rows. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag 30)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.30

Part 4: How to join the shoulders

Join the shoulders the same as the front and back, with sl st. Don’t forget to leave enough space for the neck. (imag. 31)
At this point, your project will look like a vest.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.31

Part 5: How to crochet the sleeves

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc in the space designed for the sleeve; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout), and 1dc in same dc as ch-3; work 2dc on the horizontal side of each dc in the sleeve space until you finish; join last dc with top of beg. ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 60dc in total ( imag. 32)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.32

Rows 2-35: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 3ch, and 1dc in each of next 59dc from previous row; join last dc with top beg ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. There will be 60dc in total (imag. 33).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.33

Part 6: How to work the edges

You will need the 4mm crochet hook. You will use single crochet stitches and work in circle.

a)The edge at the bottom of squares:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any ch-2-sp from bottom side of the Granny square; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 79dc from the bottom side of square1; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; 1sc in next 79dc from bottom side of square2; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; join with first sc with sl st; cut and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag 34, 35)

Rows2-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 161sc from previous row; join with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag.36)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.36

b)The sleeve edge:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 1ch; insert hook in same space as ch-1 and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all the 3 loops on the hook (imag. 37, 38); * insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all 3 loops on the hook (imag. 39,40) *; repet from * to *; join last sc with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 30sc in total. (imag. 41)

Row 2: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops on the hook; * insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops *; repeat from * to *; join with first ch-1 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 20 sc in total.

Rows 3-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 19sc in each of the next 20sc from previous row; join with sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and afsten off. You will have 20sc in total. (imag.42)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.42

Part 7: How to work the collar

Join desired color with sl st in any of dc from within the collar space; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 1sc in each of the next dc from previous row within the collar area; join wih sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag. 43)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.43

Congratulations! You’ve just finished a super colorful sweater. Enjoy it.

Happy joining colors,

The Coolorburbians.

Nov 052016
 

Hello, Dear Friends

Today’s article is about a project that my sister and I started just recently to raise funds to modernize our parents farm. We launched the campaign on Indiegogo and now we are trying to reach to as many people as we can to make our campaign more visible and attract more support. And I thought that you might like to give a helping hand and spread the word.

My parents run a small traditional farm in Braila, Romania. They specialize in growing herbs (dill and leaf parsley), root vegetables , green beans, chili peppers and corn. Most of the work is still done manually. They aim to upgrade to a sustainable farm growing organic food over the next years. That’s why they need your help.

Let’s continue with the story.

Their name is Nicu and Vasilica Stan, a 50 something year old couple from Braila, Romania. Their life, so far, has been mostly tough than easy, with more valleys than peaks. This all began in 1995 when we lost our house due to the country’s economical changes. For the next 8 years they’ve tried various ventures (and adventures, including working abroad in Turkey). Until finally they found their passion. Because this is what farming is for them. It’s not just a business. It is freedom, love and caring. In fact, this is so well known about their work, that it got my father the nickname “Nicu Mărar”, as in Nicu “Dill”.

Mom and Dad

Mom and Dad

2003 was an important milestone in their life. It was the year they went into farming on their own, but also the year, they decided to sell our second house (a 1 room flat) for the sake of us, who were both in high school and needed more space. Sadly, we haven’t been able to buy a house ever since. We’ve been renting for 13 years now. They never had a start up budget that could have allowed them to put a solid basis to their business. They still rely on loans for production costs.

Over the years their business grew little by little. They experimented with different vegetables, like tomatoes, pepper, garlic, cucumber, zucchini, eggplant, cabbage, spinach, root vegetables, green beans, chili peppers, corn, but they found that dill and parsley were most successful. They were more resilient to weather changes than other vegetables and herbs and easier to manage. Although their main products are dill and parsley, they still grow other vegetable in rotation, mostly radish, green beans, chili peppers, corn and others.

All their products are sold in bulk to more than 75% of our local markets. They only sell fresh herbs and vegetables, per kilo/ pounds and in bunches. They cut the dill/ parsley and bind them in small bunches which they put in plastic crates. Then they put the crates in cold water for 15-20 minutes to keep them fresh. Then they are stored away from the sun until next morning when they are delivered to their clients. Their work begins at around 5.00 am in the morning until it gets dark, but it’s work that they love and do with joy, though, for the past few years, it has become a bit difficult for them to keep up with this schedule. (They are not getting any younger!). They would like to increase our workforce to reduce their workload.

The harvesting season lasts from April to late November, which means that they are on standby for 5 months due to cold and harsh winters. You may wonder why they do not build greenhouses. They did. Two of them. But they both got blown away by the strong winds and, ironically, it was in summer. The land is open; there is no curtain of trees to offer protection. And winds are especially strong in these parts.

They have about 5 hectares/10 acres of land. They do not own the land; it is rented annually. Also, they are still at the level of traditional farming, where most of the work is done manually. They use hand operating machinery, such as a two-wheel tractor, hand seeding machine, they weed manually. For soil cultivation, such as ploughing/plowing or tilling, they contract specialists from neighbouring farms.

In 2013 they decided to take the first step to becoming sustainable and modernize their farm. They wanted to buy:

solar panels to replace the generator which ran on petrol (very costly and inefficient) and thus produce their own energy;

– a drip irrigation and low pivot pressure system to reduce loss of water and prevent salinization of soil;

– build two extra drilled wells to deal with the shortage of water during droughts in summer, but also to make sure that the groundwater doesn’t dry up (the land is pretty vast for just one well);

– 3 new submersible water pumps adapted to the solar panels;

budget for production costs for the following year;

– a new car to replace their old Ford Transit from 1995.

Ford Transit

Our Parents Old Ford Transit

They applied for a bank loan which was approved. However, in late November 2013, I, Cătălina, suffered a stroke. But a month spent in the hospital and nearly all the loan money spent on doctors barely saved my life. At that time, I lost my sight, my hearing, the sense of smell and partial mobility. I began recovering only after I was taken out of the hospital and brought home. Currently, even though I’m still blind, I’m doing much better and I’m back to crocheting again, though I’m doing easy stitches such as the Granny on the Straight Stitch. In fact, I want to do something with my life. Since the income provided by the state isn’t enough to cover all daily expenses, me and my older sister, Ana, are planning an online little yarn shop. I’ve crocheted dozens of shawls so far, which I intend to sell; but that’s a story for another day.

Now, let’s go on with the story.

Not being able to make those investments back then has taken a great toll on them. They simply couldn’t reduce the debts anymore. They couldn’t make any progress. They dream of a day when they start the agricultural year without any debt. That’s why, my sister and I came up with this idea to make a campaign to raise funds to help them. This is the least we can do to help them.

All of your donations will go into making the original plan from 2013 a reality: a sustainable farm which plans to grow organic food. They need $50,000. Here is what it will be spent:

– solar panels to produce solar energy: $10,000

– drip irrigation system and low pivot pressure: $4,000

– costs for two drilled wells: $2,000

– 3 submersible pumps: $1,000

– budget for production costs (seeds, organic fertilizers, which are very expensive, soil management, etc): $10,000

– a new car ( a car is essential to our business; we deliver the goods to our clients every morning): $10,000

– new machinery to replace older ones, such as our 5 year old two-wheel tractor, our 8 year old hand sowing machine, hand held fertilizing equipment: $5,000

– other unforeseen costs due to climatic hazards, mostly; estimated costs around $3,000

(Last year they went through a series of misfortunes where their well clogged; they couldn’t water the plants and they couldn’t produce anything for a month; later that year the car engine broke and needed to be replaced; because the car is very old, the pieces are also old and faulty and need constant replacement; believe it or not, this summer, there were some pretty strong currents which, unfortunately destroyed their greenhouse).

– there are quite a number of taxes needed to be paid for money transfers, exchange rates, commissions, fees and taxes that sum up to $5,000

Greenhouse

The Greenhouse which was destroyed

The land they work every day has given them and us so much, so now they want to give something back to it. They have noticed that over the years that the soil has lost some of its fertility, the droughts seem more intense and the rain is more acid. It is essential that we protect the land and environment and help replenish it and not overuse it if we want to have long term benefits.

We do know that there are chances we won’t raise the entire amount of money that we ask. Even so, we will use all the money that we will receive to implement our plan.

There is always a way you could help, even though you may not be able to donate. Please spread the word around. You can even use our text, story and photos to share with people that may be interested. For more information on how you can help or how to donate, please visit our campaign on Indiegogo: Support Our Farm To Become Sustainable.

Sure we would have wanted to write even more about us, since our story is full of experiences of all sorts. But your time, Dear Friend, is valuable. We do hope that we managed to give you an overall image of who our parents are and what they want.

Photo Gallery:


Thank you so much for listening and helping,
The Coolorburbians

Sep 262016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Today, we are going to teach you how to crochet a square around a circle.
There are many ways to crochet a circle. Also, there are lots of variations in the number of rounds you can crochet for a circle, for instance, a circle with two rounds, a circle with three rounds, or more. Crocheting a circle with 2 rounds is different from crocheting a circle with 3 rounds. This is based on the number of double crochet stitches you are using on the first round. There are video tutorials showing both types of circles on my YouTube channel, which you can find by following the links below:
How to crochet a circle with 2 rounds: part 1 and part 2.
How to crochet a circle with 3 rounds: part 1, part 2 and part 3.
We had to reconfigure the number of stitches on each round so as to have an even number of stitches to match a square.

How to crochet a square around a circle

Let’s get started!

Abbreviations:
beg ch – beginning chain
ch – chain
ch-x-sp – chain x space
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch

Level: beginner.

Part 1: How to crochet a circle with 3 rounds

Ch 4. Join with first ch with sl st to make a ring.

Round 1: ch3 (counts as a dc here and throughout); 11dc in the ring; join with top beg ch3 with sl st. (12dc in total)

Round 2: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch3; (2dc in next dc from previous round) X 11 times; join with top of beg ch 3 with sl st. (24dc in total)

Round 3: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch3; 1 dc in next dc; [2dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc] X 11 times; join with top of beg ch3 with sl st; (36dc in total)

If you want to continue with a different color, fasten off and attach the new color in any of the dc from previous round. We continued where we left off.

Part 2: How to crochet a square around a circle

Round 4: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch3; ch2; 2dc in next dc from previous round; * 2hdc in next 2 dc; 3sc in next 3 dc; 2hdc in next 2dc; 2dc in next dc; ch2; 2dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * two more times; finish the round: 2hdc in next 2 dc, 3sc in next 3dc, 2hdc in next 2dc; join with top of beg ch3 with sl st; (44dc and 4ch-2-sp in total).

Round 5: ch3; 1dc in next dc; (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next ch-2-sp; * 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous round; (2dc, ch2, 2dc in next ch-2-sp)*; repeat from * to * two more times; finish the round: 1 dc in each of next 9dc from previous round; join with top of beg ch3 with sl st; ( 60 dc and 4ch-2-sp in total).

Cut the yarn and fasten off.

If you want to make the square larger, you can crochet an extra round following the same instructions showed in row 5, making sure you enlarge the square size in corners.

If you prefer video instructions, here is the link showing you how to crochet a square around a circle.

Part 1: Hot to crochet a circle with 3 rounds

Part 2: How to crochet a square around a circle with 3 rounds

When you are done crocheting your project using our instructions, please share your photos on our Facebook page, in the sidebar.

Happy squaring circles,
The Coolorburbians.

Jul 062016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

I thought I should tell you that I’ve finally managed to overcome the lethargy after the stroke. In fact, even my sister, Ana-Maria, is feeling much better. We were both struck with apathy and with this sense of futility. But for the past few months I’ve started crocheting again and my sister started to learn how to crochet. I feel this overwhelming joy that I can hold the crochet hook without feeling frustrated that I can’t crochet double crochet stitches like I used to. I’m still limited to a few techniques and stitches, because of my blindness, but it’s better than nothing. Ever since I started crocheting I’ve been making shawl after shawl. Seven, to be more precise. Some of them I offered to friends as gifts, and the rest I intend to sell. But, even if I want to sell the complete project, that doesn’t mean that you do not have the right to know “the secret” behind the project. So, we decided to teach you how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape, like the one in the image below.

How to crochet a shawl in a triangle

You can also watch the video tutorials below on how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Let’s get started!

Abbreviations:

() – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

[] – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

beg ch – beginning chain

ch – chain

ch-x-sp – chain-x-space

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner.

Tips: Read my next article on tips and recommendations about how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape.

Work a loose ch of 5. Join 1st ch with last ch with a sl st to make a ring. (Tip: work around the ring and the loose end to avoid sewing).

Row 1: work 4ch (this represents 1dc and ch-1-sp here and across); 3dc inside the ring; 3ch to work the tip of the shawl; 3dc inside the ring; 1ch; 1dc inside the ring; 4ch to turn.

Row 2: work 3ch in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch,1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 3: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 4: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 5: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 3; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 3; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 6: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 4; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 4; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Rows 7-40/50: repeat row 6 following the same steps as shown in this row.

That’s it. Seriously. We are not going to write instructions for the next rows because it would be redundant. All you have to do is follow the instructions for rows 4-6. The only difference is that each side of the row will have an additional set of 3dc. This is how the shawl increases: on the sides and not on the tip, as you might think.

Don’t forget to read the article about tips and recommendations about how to crochet shawls in a triangle shape. We will also post an article to show you how to attach the tassels to a shawl. And lastly, feel free to post photos of your finished projects on our Facebook page.

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians

Jun 182016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

In this post we will teach you how to crochet the Granny on the Straight stitch.

This stitch originates from the Traditional Granny Square. Unlike the traditional Granny square, the Granny on the Straight stitch is worked on the long or on the wide in straight rows (thus the name). It is one of the easiest and frequently used stitch. You can crochet a variety of projects with the Granny on the Straight, such as blankets, shawls, scarves, sweaters, blouses, handbags and much more. You just have to use your imagination.

Abbreviations :
ch – chain
ch-x-sp – chain x space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sp – space

And now let’s continue with some technical information:

– this stitch is worked in multiples of 4;

– because the foundation chain tends to stretch a lot because it is looser, we recommend crocheting a row of single crochet stitches for consolidation;

– the double crochet stitch is the main stitch used across the project; it is worked in sets of 3 double crochet stitches called shells (Note: shells are not necessarily crocheted with a fixed number of stitches, the number may vary from 3 to 9 , such as in the Catherine Wheels stitch);

– the shells are separated by a ch-1-space, which creates a space between the sets.

When learning a new stitch, always crochet small swatches before committing yourself to bigger projects.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 4. Then work a row of single crochet stitches.

Row 1: work 3ch (they count as a dc here and across the project); work 2dc in the same sc as the ch-3; * 1ch; skip next 3sc from previous row; 3dc in 4th sc from previous row*; repeat from * to *; finish the row: 1ch, skip next 3sc, 3dc in last sc from previous row; work 4ch to turn (this counts as 1dc + ch-1 here and across).

Note: If you decide not to work the row of single crochet stitches, the instructions are the same. You will work the shells in the chains on the foundation chain and not in the single crochet. Here it goes: work 3ch; 2dc in 4th ch from foundation ch; *1ch; skip next 3ch; work 3dc in 4th ch from foundation ch*; repeat from * to *; finish the row: 1ch, skip 3ch from foundation ch, 3dc in last ch from foundation ch; work 4ch to turn.

Row 2: skip 1st shell of 3dc; work 3dc in next ch-1-space; * 1ch; skip next set of 3dc; work 3dc in next ch-1-space from previous row*; repeat from * to *; finish the row: 1ch, 1dc in last ch-3 from previous row (this sp is the same as the ch-4-sp from the beginning of the row); work 3ch to turn.

Row 3: work 2dc in 1st ch-1-sp from previous row (these 2dc + ch-3 make a shell); *1ch; skip next set of 3dc; work 3dc in next ch-1-sp from previous row*; repeat fro * to *; finish the row: 1ch, 3dc in last ch-1-sp from previous row; work 4ch to turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern.

If you worked a row of single crochet stitches at the beginning you need to finish the project with a row of single crochet stitches as well. So, work 1sc in each dc from previous row, including the ch-1-sps as well.

We hope that our instructions will help you learn the Granny on the Straight stitch.

We would be happy if you uploaded photos of your finished projects using this stitch on our Facebook page, which you can find in the right column.

If you prefer video tutorials, you can watch them following the links bellow:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 4:

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians.

Jun 112016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Today’s article will show you how to crochet an Anchored Stitch. Why anchored, you might wonder? Well we thought about how to name the stitch and we noticed that the mixture of double crochet stitches in V and one other on top of them looks like an anchor. We admit that renaming crochet stitches requires quite a bit of imagination.

This is a very easy pattern that you can use to make ponchos and scarves.

Take a look at the picture below see how this pattern looks like.

How to crochet the Anchored Stitch

Abbreviations:

[ ] – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
ch – chain
ch-sp – chain-space
dc -double crochet
sc -single crochet
sp – space
tr – triple (treble) crochet

Level: beginner

Tip: This stitch has very loose and mixed edgings. Make sure you learn how to add various borders to make these edgings look prettier.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 6, plus 3 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc] in 6th ch from the hook; * skip next 5ch; work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc ] in next ch *; repeat from * to *; finish the row: skip next 2ch, work 1dc in the last ch from the foundation ch, 1ch to turn.

Row 2: work 1sc in last dc from previous row; * 3 ch; skip next 2dc; work 1dc in next ch-2-sp; 3ch; skip next 2dc; work 1sc in the sp between the 2 groups of 4dc *; repeat from * to *; finish the row: work 1sc in the last ch-sp from previous row, 4ch to turn.

Row 3: * work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc ] in first dc from previous row; skip next sc *; repeat from * to *; finish the row: work 1tr in last sc from previous row, 1ch to turn.

Repeat rows 2 to 3 to complete the pattern.

Happy anchoring,
The Coolorburbians.