Feb 092018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

There are many variations to the crocodile crochet stitch and even more applications and ways to use it to make all sorts of items , from blankets , pillow cases , hats , mittens , shawls , cardigans and so many more . I am currently experimenting with these variations to create patterns for small items just to keep my hands and imagination busy . Let me remind you that I lost my sight in November 2013 after suffering a stroke that I wrote about on my personal blog . You can read the story here . But let’s go back to the crocodile stitch . I put together a video tutorial on how to crochet the crocodile stitch that you can follow bellow .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

However , today’s instructions will show you a variation of this beautiful crochet stitch . Why is that ? It is easier for me to use this variation because of the extra chain 1 spaces . Since I no longer see , I need to use my touching quite a lot to figure out a pattern . Which is why I prefer the lacey stitches a lot more rather than the solid block stitches . Thankfully , the crocodile stitch falls under the first category which I like . So now let me explain to you how I was able to crochet the crocodile shawl that you can see in the images bellow , even though I don’t see . If you prefer visual instructions , you can follow my video tutorial on YouTube on how to crochet this type of shawl that I made shortly before the stroke . As far as I remember , the video also uses a small variation of the stitch . Either way will work just fine .

Information about the materials and tools needed :

1. I used 13 skeins of superfine yarn for the entire project , including the tassels , which I prefer long and thick . I wanted to make a large crocodile shawl because this is how I like them better , long and large . Which is why I used so many skeins of yarn . But if you want to make a scarf or a smaller shawl , then you should get 8 skeins . The information on the label is as follows : 50g (1,76 oz), 255m (~ 278yds), 71% acrylic, 24% wool, 5% metallic yarn, needle 2.50mm.

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook , even though the label on the yarn recommends using a smaller size . I chose the 6 mm one because I can’t really hold a smaller hook in my hand . Blind people usually tend to work with big hooks and needles and bulky wool . I should admit that making this shawl was a dare . But the result turned out beautifully , which is why I couldn’t care less about all that effort , sweat , blood and tears .

3. It took me approximately 2 weeks to finish this shawl , with an average of one skein per day used .

4. Sizes: Width= 200cm (78,74 inch), Height= 82cm (32,38 inch), Sides= 128cm (50 inch), Tassels= 17cm (6,7 inch).

Abbreviations and how tos :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stictch;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in space recommended and work 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

The shawl will be worked in rows , with the start at the tip of the shawl . It will grow in size on each row , on the edges . Which is why I am only going to explain how to crochet the first rows , the rest of them being a repeat of these first , making sure you add the necessary stitches on the sides to enlarge your shawl .

Row 1 and row 2 : Ch5 ; join with beg ch with sl st to form a ring ; ch 1 ; 5dc in ring ; ch1 ; 5dc in ring ; turn .

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.1

Row 3 : Ch4 ( counts as 1dc+ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same space as ch-4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale from previous row ; V-st in top of the first dc on one of the sides of the scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 3 V-st on row 3, see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.2

Row 4 : 1scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1scale around last V-st ; turn . ( 2 scales on row 4 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.3

Row 5 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; V-st in next ch1 sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on one of the sides of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.4

Row 6 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 , see image bellow )

Crocheted Triangle Crocodile Shawl

Imag.5

Row 7 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * once ; v-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of last scale from previous row ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 7 V-sts on row 7 )

Row 8 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; * repeat fromm * to * once ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the two scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 9 V-sts on row 9 )

Row 10 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last V-st on the side from previous row ; turn . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

Rows 11-110 : Repeat rows 9-10 , making sure you enlarge the shawl on the sides , as explained and shown in the previous paragraphs .

Row 111 : 1sc in each chain space and stitch from rows 109 and 110 , making sure you grab and crochet around the spaces between the scales and in the middle of the scales from previous row as well / This row is necessary for a stronger foundation when you finish the shawl .

This is about it . Trust me when I say this , the pattern is not complicated at all . And the crocodile stitch is a lot easier to execute than it meets the eye . Even *I* was able to make it and I don’t see . I wrote the instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to a shawl in a different article for a better management of this website . You can find it here . I hope my instructions are of help to you and that you now have a long and gorgeous shawl wrapped around yourself for the upcoming spring . Please share photos of your work on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians) .

Jan 132018
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit I grew very fond of the granny on the straight stitch that I used since I began crocheting again in March 2016 . To those of you who are reading my blog for the first time , I should repeat this bit of information about my life . I suffered a stroke in late November 2013 after which I became blind and partially deaf . I used to crochet on an advanced level before the stroke , but the permanent blindness that I am facing cut my crocheting passion short . I now am somewhere below a beginner crocheter since I have to make every step and stitch through touching with the visual help being a valuable commodity that I currently do not afford . But in March 2016 I got into the habit of crocheting once again , though all my work since that moment relied solely on the granny on the straight stitch that I found so easy to use with all the chain 1 spaces and somewhat lacey aspect that this stitch has . In time , I was no longer able to fool the little artist in me . My fingers were aching to try new stitches and patterns , despite my fear and frustration . I really used to be an advanced crocheter and loved the Tunisian stitches the most , stitches that I currently find impossible to make . But so I thought about the crocodile crochet stitch less than 4 months ago , when I gave it a try . And guess what , everyone ? I did a fabulous job crocheting two baby blankets and three pillow cases . One set is for a girl , the other one is for a baby boy . Come to think about it , the two blankets are for about 12-18 months old children . In any case , I thought to put together the instructions that will help you crochet similar pieces for your children , relatives or possible clients .

Things you need to know about the stitch and materials needed :

1. I used 28 skeins of 100% micropolyester Baby Softy yarn from Alize, wash by hand, 50g (1.76 oz.), 115m (126 yds) , as shown in the image bellow . They were enough to complete the blanket and the pillow cases .

Colorful Crocodile Crochet Baby Blanket By Coolorful

2. I used a mix of 14 colors for the girl blanket and a mix of white and four shades of blue for the boy blanket . Feel free to use whatever colors you prefer , but make sure you have sufficient quantity to finish your project .

3. Buying the necessary amount of yarn depends on the type of crochet hook you will use to crochet the crocodile set . I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook . It also depends on the type of stitches and tension in your work . For example , my mother tends to crochet large stitches , so she would need a larger quantity of yarn as well , whereas my sister and I tend to make our stitches tightly , giving them a smaller look .

4. This means that the following measurements that I am going to give you are only an approximation . Please take into consideration your own crochet habits before embarking on working on this project .

The Baby Girl Crocodile Crochet Blanket: Width: 90cm; Length: 100cm

The Baby Boy Crocodile Crochet Blanket: Width: 94cm ; Length: 98cm

5. It took me about 18 days to complete the whole set of blanket plus two pillow cases , but then again I have a tremendous amount of free time on my hands . However I averaged on around five rows per day .

6. Even though I will try my best to explain the crocodile stitch as best as possible , you could take a look at my old tutorial on YouTube that I posted on my crochet channel before the stroke that you can find at the following link . Please note that the tutorial is split in a few parts , giving you a lot of details and tips on how to crochet the crocodile stitch .

7. See the following diagram that I used to combine the colors:

Baby girl blanket: A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N / A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N/ A-B-C-D-E-F-G / H-I-J-K-L-M-N / A-B-C-D-E-F-G – 2 skeins for each A to N colors (28 in total)

Baby boy blanket: A- white (16 skeins); B- 1st blue (3 skeins); C- 2nd bleu (3 skeins); D- 3rd bleu (3 skeins); E- 4th bleu (3 skeins) – 28 in total.

A-B-A-C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A/ C-A-D-A-E-A-D-A-C-A-B-A

Abbreviations :

ch – chain

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space

beg ch – beginning chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet stitch

dc – double crochet stitch

How to crochet the crocodile scale : working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next set of 2dc, ch 1, turn work so the set of 2dc is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of the set, work 5 dc.

Level: easy, beginner.

Instructions :

Make a foundation chain of 122 chains ( the crocodile stitch is usually done in a multiple of 6 chains plus 4 extra chains to complete the pattern , but I used a small variation of the instructions for a more solid foundation , so I recommend that you do the same ) . Work 1sc in each ch across the foundation ch ( 121 sc in total ) .

Row 1 : Ch 3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same sc as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; skip next 2sc ; * 2dc in next sc ; ch 2 ; skip next 2 sc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; 2dc in last sc ; ch 1 and turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 1 )

Row 2 : 1 crocodile scale around first set of 2dc ; ch 1; skip next set of 2dc ; * 1 crocodile scale around next set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last set of 2dc ; cut the yarn and fasten off; turn . ( 21 crocodile scales on row 2 )

Row 3 : Attach new color in the middle of last scale from previous row with sl st ; ch 3 ; 1dc in same sp as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; * 2dc between the next 2dc from previous row , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the scales as well ; ch 2 ; 2dc in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with 2dc in the middle of last scale ; turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 3 )

Row 4 : Sl st between the two dc of the first set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; * 1 scale around the next set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; skip next set of 2dc ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; sl st between the two dc of the last set of 2dc from previous row ; cut the yarn and fasten off , turn . (20 crocodile scales in total)

Row 5 : Attach new choice of color between the two dc of the last set of 2dc from row 3 with a sl st ; ch 3 ; 1dc in same space as ch 3 ; ch 2 ; * 2dc in the middle of the next scale ; ch 2 ; 2dc between the two dc of the next set of 2dc , making sure you grab and crochet around the ch-1 sp between the scales as well ; * repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with a set of 2dc in the last set of 2dc from row 3 ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 41 sets of 2dc on row 5 )

Row 6 : 1 scale around the first set of 2dc ; ch 1 ; * skip next set of 2dc ; 1 scale around next set of 2dc; ch 1* repeat from * to * across the row ; make sure you end up the row with a scale around the last set of 2dc ; cut the yarn and fasten off; turn. ( 21 scales on row 6 )

Rows 7-126 : Repeat rows 3-6 , alternating your color options as well to suit your personal taste the best .

Do not cut the yarn on row 126. 1sc in each stitch , chain and space , 121 sc in total . Knot all loose ends securely , sew them across the scales and cut the tails when you are done .

I split the instructions in two parts, making the pattern easier to follow. Please visit the article on how to crochet a crocodile pillow case for a baby or as a home decor here.

I hope my guidance is of help and that your kids will enjoy their new crocodile blankets.

Happy crocodiling,
The Coolorburbians.

Dec 222017
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit that I only began writing instructions for my crochet projects recently , after resuming my hand made hobby last year , in March . Putting these instructions together is a great adventure for me , since I still am unable to see , which means that I have to write down the steps using a lot of my imagination and visual memory . This is a marvelous thing happening to me since visualizing things is a recommended exercise for people who have lost their sight . So let’s see how this is going to go . Please address notes to me about any mistakes you may find throughout the instructions for a Christmas crocheted beret using the crocodile stitch as the main technique .

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Crocodile Stitch Beret

Materials and other information :

I used three skeins of yarn , one white and two reds and a 5.5 mm and a 4.5 mm European size crochet hooks , as seen in the image bellow . The yarn is 100% acrylic yarn , 75 grams per skein , 210 meters long , from a Romanian brand called ‘Adina’ . I recommend that you use similar materials , including the hook sizes for the instructions to work the best . If you prefer crocheting the crocodile beret in one color , I still suggest that you get three skeins of your preferred color . Better be safe than sorry . Besides that , you are going to need the remaining yarn to make the pompon . This is a pattern for beginner-intermediate crocheters . It took me three days to finish the beret , but then again things take me a little longer to complete . But if you are going to start like NOW , you may be over in time for Christmas with a beautiful beret that you can wear yourself or give away as a gift to someone dear .

The beret will fit a medium adult size. Unstretched, the headband is 51cm in circumference.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.1

Abbreviations and how-to’s :

ch – chain ;

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space ;

sl st – slip stitch ;

YO – yarn over

hdc – half double crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

hdc V-st– half double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1hdc , ch1 , 1hdc ) ;

dc V-st – double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1dc , ch1 , 1dc ) ;

fpdc – front post double crochet ( insert hook behind the next recommended stitch from right to left, as seen in the image bellow , making sure you YO once before this step ; twirl the hook and YO again , just like you would crochet a normal dc ; now you have three loops on your hook ; YO again and pull through first two loops on your hook ; YO one last time and pull through last two loops on your hook ; the dc should look as if pushed in front – see images bellow )

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc (see image bellow).

How to crochet the headband :

Begin with white and the 5.5 mm hook . Chain 13 .

Row 1 : Skip first 2ch ( they count as 1hdc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in each of next 10 chains ; 1hdc in last ch ; ch 2 ; turn .

Row 2 : 1fpdc in second dc from previous row ; 1fpdc in each of the next 9dc ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch2 ; turn .

Rows 3-56 : Begin in the second fpdc , 1fpdc in each fpdc across the row ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch 2 ( skip this last step when you get to row 56 ) ; turn .

Your headband should look like mine , as seen in the image bellow . Each row of the crocheted headband has 12 stitches , 10 of which are fpdc and 2 hdc on the sides.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.11

If you are going to switch the color into the red one , then please cut the yarn , leaving about a 10 cm long tail for sewing , . If you continue working the beret using the same color , then please use sl st to join the two sides together, as shown in image bellow.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.12

How to crochet the main part of the beret:

Turn the headband on one side. You will work in rounds from now on.

Round 1 : Attach the red color in any ch2 on side of the beret you chose with a sl st ; ch 4 ( counts as 1dc and a ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same ch2 as the previous ch4 ; * skip next hdc on the side ; dc V-st in next ch2 * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last hdc on the side ; join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch4 with sl st . ( 28 dc V-st in total , see image bellow ); do not turn.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.13

Round 2 : Ch3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; working from top to bottom around post of first dc of first V-st , work 4dc ; ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down (V point of V-st will be facing right); working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc ; * skip next dc V-st ; 1 scale around the next dc V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last dc V-st ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st ; do not turn . (14 scales in total)

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.14

Round 3 : Insert hook in the ch-1 sp between the two scales from previous row and work 1sc , making sure you crochet around both the ch-1 sp and the sp between the scales ; ch4 ; 1dc in same sp as ch4 ; * dc V-st in next ch-1 sp in the middle of the next scale ; dc V-st in the next ch-1 sp , making sure you crochet around the sp between the the two scales from previous row as well * ; repeat from * to * around ; dc V-st in last ch-1 sp in the middle of last scale ; join in the 3rd ch of ch4 with a sl st ; do not turn . (28 dc V-st in total)

Round 4 : repeat round 2 .

Rounds 5-22 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , alternating between them .

Rounds 23-24 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , but using the 4.5 mm crochet hook .

Round 25 : Repeat row 3 with the following notes : change beg ch4 with a ch3 ; change dc V-st with hdc V-st ; join in the second ch from the beg ch3 with a sl st ; use the same 4.5 mm crochet hook . (28 hdc V-sts in total)

Round 26 : Ch 2 (counts as a hdc); working from top to bottom around post of first hdc of first V-st, work 3 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down, working from bottom to top around post of second hdc of V-st, work 4 fphdc; * skip next hdc V-st; 1 hdc scale around next hdc V-st, making sure you crochet 4hdc around each hdc post instead of 5, like you did so far*; repeat from * to *; skip last hdc V-st; join with top of beg ch-2 with a sl st; do not turn. (14 smaller scales in total)

Round 27 : Repeat round 25 . Leave a long thread to use for sewing top of beret.

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.15

Closing hat top: With yarn needle, thread tail through spaces of hdc V-sts of last round twice, pull gently to gather top tightly, and knot securely. (See following image)

How to crochet a Crocodile Stitch Beret

Imag.16

How to make the pompon :
Wind yarn around a piece of hard cardboard 13cm long approx 150 times ( we used a plastic cover); tie tightly in the middle and leave a long end for attaching to hat; cut loops at both ends and trim to smooth round shape; sew securely to top of hat. See images below:

I hope you like it. Happy crocheting and
Merry Christmas,
The Coolorburbians.

Nov 252017
 

Dear Artsy&Crafts Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial I am going to show you how to crochet a colorful sweater using the Traditional Solid Granny Square, as shown in the picture below.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

You might think it is hard, but that’s not the case. So let’s get started.

Abbreviations:

ch- – chain
ch-X-sp – chain X space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner

Size: L, 40

Tips:

1. To make your sweater as colorful as possible, you will need a variety of colors. So make an inventory of all the leftover yarn or buy new ones. Or you can make it with as many colors as you want, even two or just one, in which case you won’t have to cut the yarn and fasten off the yarn as much. The instructions will be the same. All in all, you will need about 800 grams ( approx. 29 ounces) of yarn in total.

2. For this project, we used 100% light worsted acrylic yarn. If you use a thicker yarn, the size will differ.

3. You will need a 4mm EU size (7-I9), 5mm EU size, a pair of scissors, tape measurement, like in the photo below (imag.1).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.1

4. Try to keep a steady tension when crocheting the stitches to make the project look even and neat.

5. If you decide to work with multiple colors, be aware that you will have lots of loose ends. When working solid Granny squares, you will attach the new color as follows: make a knot, (imag. 2) join with sl st ]n ch-2-sp (imag. 3), which is the corner of the solid granny square. You will do the same when working the sleeves, chest or back.

6. Don’t forget to hide all the loose ends as you crochet ( imag. 4). If you leave them for later, it will be a lot more difficult and time consuming.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.4

7. You will crochet 2 big solid Granny squares, one for front, one for back. Each square will have 20 rows. When you finish working one square, you will add 15 rows of double crochet to each square to complete the chest and the back. Then, you will work the sleeves, an edge using the single crochet and, finally, the collar.

Having said that, let’s get to work.

Part 1: How to crochet the two solid Granny squares

Row 1: with first color work 2ch (imag.5); work [ 3dc in 1st ch; 2 h (imag.6,7)] x 4; join with sl st last ch-2 with first dc; cut the thread and fasten off; you will have: 3dc on each side, 12 dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp (which represent the corners of the square)(imag. 8)

Row 2: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp; work 3ch (this counts as a dc here and throughout); work 1dc in same ch-sp as the 3ch (imag. 9); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row (imag 10); * work [2dc, 2 ch, 2dc] in next ch-2-sp (imag. 11); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch -3 with sl st; cut the thread and fasten off . You will have: 7dc on each side, 28dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.12)

Row 3: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2-sp as 3ch (imag.13); work 1dc in each of next 7dc from previous row (imag. 14); * work [2dc, 2ch,2dc] in next ch-2sp, (imag. 15) and 1dc in each of the next 7 dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 11dc on each side, 44dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.(imag. 16)

Row 4: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 17), and 1dc in each of the 11dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.18), and 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 15dc on each side, 60dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.19)

Row 5: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 20), and 1dc in each of the 15dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.21), and 1dc in each of next 15dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 19dc on each side, 76dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.22)

The square will increase in size in the ch-2-sp corners which each row. Each side of the square will have 4 extra dc (16dc in total on each row). Following this principle and the instructions from the previous rows, please work the next 15 rows. To give you extra help, will count the number of dc for each row.

Row 6: you will have: 23dc on each side, 92dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 7: 27dc on each side, 108dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 8: 31dc on each side, 124dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 9: 35dc on each side, 140dc in total, 4ch-2-sp.

Row 10: 39dc on each side, 156dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag. 23)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.23

Row 11: 43dc on each side, 172dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 12: 47dc on each side, 188dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 13: 51dc on each side, 204 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 14: 55dc on each side, 220 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 15: 59dc on each side, 236 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 16: 63dc on each side, 252 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 17: 67dc on each side, 268 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 18: 71dc on each side, 284 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 19: 75dc on each side, 300 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 20: 79dc on each side, 316 in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.24)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.24

Part 2: How to crochet the chest and the back

The pattern is the same for both chest and back. You work the rows horizontically on either side of the squares.

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp ; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout)(imag. 25); work 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row of the square, 1dc in next ch-2-sp; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag.26,27)

Rows 2-15: join new color with sl st in last dc from previous row; work 3c, and 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag. 28, 29)

Part 3: How to join the front and the back

Join the two sides of the sweater, front and back, with sl st. Insert crochet hook in any ch-2-sp from opposite side of the one you worked the 15 rows, simultaneously in both squares and start to sl st. Insert hook in next dc, simultaneously in both squares and sl st. Repeat until end of rows. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag 30)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.30

Part 4: How to join the shoulders

Join the shoulders the same as the front and back, with sl st. Don’t forget to leave enough space for the neck. (imag. 31)
At this point, your project will look like a vest.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.31

Part 5: How to crochet the sleeves

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc in the space designed for the sleeve; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout), and 1dc in same dc as ch-3; work 2dc on the horizontal side of each dc in the sleeve space until you finish; join last dc with top of beg. ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 60dc in total ( imag. 32)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.32

Rows 2-35: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 3ch, and 1dc in each of next 59dc from previous row; join last dc with top beg ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. There will be 60dc in total (imag. 33).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.33

Part 6: How to work the edges

You will need the 4mm crochet hook. You will use single crochet stitches and work in circle.

a)The edge at the bottom of squares:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any ch-2-sp from bottom side of the Granny square; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 79dc from the bottom side of square1; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; 1sc in next 79dc from bottom side of square2; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; join with first sc with sl st; cut and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag 34, 35)

Rows2-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 161sc from previous row; join with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag.36)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.36

b)The sleeve edge:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 1ch; insert hook in same space as ch-1 and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all the 3 loops on the hook (imag. 37, 38); * insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all 3 loops on the hook (imag. 39,40) *; repet from * to *; join last sc with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 30sc in total. (imag. 41)

Row 2: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops on the hook; * insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops *; repeat from * to *; join with first ch-1 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 20 sc in total.

Rows 3-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 19sc in each of the next 20sc from previous row; join with sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and afsten off. You will have 20sc in total. (imag.42)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.42

Part 7: How to work the collar

Join desired color with sl st in any of dc from within the collar space; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 1sc in each of the next dc from previous row within the collar area; join wih sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag. 43)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.43

Congratulations! You’ve just finished a super colorful sweater. Enjoy it.

Happy joining colors,

The Coolorburbians.

Jul 062016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

I thought I should tell you that I’ve finally managed to overcome the lethargy after the stroke. In fact, even my sister, Ana-Maria, is feeling much better. We were both struck with apathy and with this sense of futility. But for the past few months I’ve started crocheting again and my sister started to learn how to crochet. I feel this overwhelming joy that I can hold the crochet hook without feeling frustrated that I can’t crochet double crochet stitches like I used to. I’m still limited to a few techniques and stitches, because of my blindness, but it’s better than nothing. Ever since I started crocheting I’ve been making shawl after shawl. Seven, to be more precise. Some of them I offered to friends as gifts, and the rest I intend to sell. But, even if I want to sell the complete project, that doesn’t mean that you do not have the right to know “the secret” behind the project. So, we decided to teach you how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape, like the one in the image below.

How to crochet a shawl in a triangle

You can also watch the video tutorials below on how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Let’s get started!

Abbreviations:

() – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

[] – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

beg ch – beginning chain

ch – chain

ch-x-sp – chain-x-space

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner.

Tips: Read my next article on tips and recommendations about how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape.

Work a loose ch of 5. Join 1st ch with last ch with a sl st to make a ring. (Tip: work around the ring and the loose end to avoid sewing).

Row 1: work 4ch (this represents 1dc and ch-1-sp here and across); 3dc inside the ring; 3ch to work the tip of the shawl; 3dc inside the ring; 1ch; 1dc inside the ring; 4ch to turn.

Row 2: work 3ch in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch,1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 3: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 4: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 5: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 3; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 3; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 6: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 4; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 4; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Rows 7-40/50: repeat row 6 following the same steps as shown in this row.

That’s it. Seriously. We are not going to write instructions for the next rows because it would be redundant. All you have to do is follow the instructions for rows 4-6. The only difference is that each side of the row will have an additional set of 3dc. This is how the shawl increases: on the sides and not on the tip, as you might think.

Don’t forget to read the article about tips and recommendations about how to crochet shawls in a triangle shape. We will also post an article to show you how to attach the tassels to a shawl. And lastly, feel free to post photos of your finished projects on our Facebook page.

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians

Jun 112016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Today’s article will show you how to crochet an Anchored Stitch. Why anchored, you might wonder? Well we thought about how to name the stitch and we noticed that the mixture of double crochet stitches in V and one other on top of them looks like an anchor. We admit that renaming crochet stitches requires quite a bit of imagination.

This is a very easy pattern that you can use to make ponchos and scarves.

Take a look at the picture below see how this pattern looks like.

How to crochet the Anchored Stitch

Abbreviations:

[ ] – work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
ch – chain
ch-sp – chain-space
dc -double crochet
sc -single crochet
sp – space
tr – triple (treble) crochet

Level: beginner

Tip: This stitch has very loose and mixed edgings. Make sure you learn how to add various borders to make these edgings look prettier.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 6, plus 3 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc] in 6th ch from the hook; * skip next 5ch; work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc ] in next ch *; repeat from * to *; finish the row: skip next 2ch, work 1dc in the last ch from the foundation ch, 1ch to turn.

Row 2: work 1sc in last dc from previous row; * 3 ch; skip next 2dc; work 1dc in next ch-2-sp; 3ch; skip next 2dc; work 1sc in the sp between the 2 groups of 4dc *; repeat from * to *; finish the row: work 1sc in the last ch-sp from previous row, 4ch to turn.

Row 3: * work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc ] in first dc from previous row; skip next sc *; repeat from * to *; finish the row: work 1tr in last sc from previous row, 1ch to turn.

Repeat rows 2 to 3 to complete the pattern.

Happy anchoring,
The Coolorburbians.

May 032016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

After nearly 2 years and a half break from crocheting, I began practicing the art once again on a beginners level. I started crocheting a blanket using the Granny on the Straight Stitch. It will be given as a gift to my bioenergy therapist, who is treating me free of charge.

This article won’t teach you how to crochet the Granny on the Straight Stitch, but it will show the adventure of crocheting a first blanket being a blind person. However, if you want to learn how to crochet the Granny on the Straight Stitch, you can watch my old tutorials that teach you to do just that. Follow the links bellow:
The Granny on the Straight Stitch video tutorial: Part 1; Part 2; Part 3; Part 4.

This is how a Granny on the Straight Blanket looks like. I made it a few years back and I do not remember the materials that I used. It is smaller in size. The one that I plan to make now should be at least twice in size.

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Mom got me 10 skeins of yarn, but I am sure I’m going to need a double quantity. Each skein is 75g. The yarn is 100% Acrylic. Length = 210 m. The label recommends using a 3.5mm European size crochet hook, but I’m going to use a 6mm one. It is easier for me to hold it.

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Black and White Skeins of Yarn

The Granny on the Straight Stitch is made of multiples of 4. I made a foundation chain of 300 chains (image 1), since I plan to make the blanket for a Queen size bed. By the way, I decided to crochet the blanket on the long. If you like to crochet your blanket on the wide, you will need to make a smaller foundation chain. You could,for example, chain approx. 200 chains. However, since I tend to pull and stretch the chains, I decided to work a first row of single crochet stitches to make my foundation stronger and more secure. (images2-4) My video tutorial on the Granny on the Straight Stitch does not show you this first row of single crochet stitches. I admit that mom gave me a hand. I tend to skip and miss a lot of the chains, or make more stitches in the same chain.

Then I began crocheting the first real, real row of the Granny on the Straight Stitch. If you remember, this stitch is done in sets of 3 double crochet stitches, also called shells. When a shell is done, you need to chain 1, than skip the next 3 chains of the foundation chain. In the 4th chain, you will work another shell. (Image 5)

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Image 5

The first row of double crochet stitches using white is completed. There are 225 double crochet stitches (75 shells) and 75 chain one spaces. (image 6) Once again mom helped me , but starting with the next row, the work will be a lot easier for me because of all the chain one spaces. They will give me a lot of freedom when touching.

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Image 6

The black and white colors will be changed every two rows. Image 7 shows you how I attached the black color to the end of second row and how I worked a few shells of double crochet stitches. The first row using the black color is completed.(Image 8) Six rows of double crochet are completed. This is how the colors look in contrast. (Image 9) This will be more noticeable as the project advances.

A few technicalities: a skein of yarn of 75g is enough to crochet 4 rows on the long. A small ball of yarn will be left (approx. 10g). I will use it to make the tassels. I’ve used 2 skeins so far. The blanket is 250cm long, and 15cm wide so far. (Image 10)

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Image 10

I placed the blanket on the bed so you can have a guess about it’s length and width so far. Four skeins are over. 17 rows completed. 25cm wide now. (Image 11) By the way, it takes me approx. 30 to 40 minutes to complete a row. I make between 4 and 8 rows per day.

Crochet contrasting Granny on the Straight Blanket

image 11

I asked mom to buy me 20 skeins of yarn. She bought me the last 18 skeins that the shop-assistant had, 10 black and 8 white. Lucky me!!!By the way a skein costed us nearly 1,5$. The total cost for the materials for the blanket reached about 45$. (Image 12)

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Image 12

I finished my first 10 skeins of yarn. They were enough for finishing a 1/3 of the blanket. This means a total of 40 rows (approx. 60cm width). (Images 13-14)

1/2 of the blanket is done. 14 out of 28 skeins of yarn were used to crochet 58 rows. The blanket is 93cm in width at the moment. Take a guess how short I am.!? The blanket is growing bigger and bigger It is becoming more and more difficult to turn it around when I end a row and begin a new one. (Images 15-17)

It’s been three weeks since I began working on the blanket. The blanket is nearly done. Got to 3/4. The blanket is 256 cm long and 140 cm wide. I used 22,5 skeins of yarn to complete 96 rows. (Image 18) Sadly, I caught a nasty cold after my dance class. It put my crochet work behind by a few days. I dropped to 2-4 rows a day. It took me 2 weeks to recover.

Crochet contrasting Colors Granny on the Straight Blanket

Image 18

5th week and working on the last row of double crochet stitches. I’m finishing the blanket in white to match the first row. I asked mom to help me finish the blanket. A last row of single crochet stitches was needed. I was afraid I was going to miss some stitches, so mom made it for me instead. She did one single crochet stitch( scs) on top of each double crochet stitch (dcs) and 1scs in each chain one space across the last row. (Images 19-20)

This is all the yarn that was left from the 28 skeins. Approx. 300g in total. The balls of yarn will be used to make the tassels. (Image 21) We decided that the tassels should be about 10cm long. Mom cut a 110cm long thread as a swatch. (Image 22) We wanted to make more tassels at the same time. Based on the swatch that mom made, we measured ten more threads, then ten more and so on. (Image 23) Each thread was then folded and inserted in each chain one space using a bigger crochet hook. My sister then cut all the ends to make the tassels even and finish them.(Images 24 – 25) Mom made 200 of them, switching between colors. Tassels were added on three sides of the blanket. (Image 26)

Image 27 shows how the blanket looks before the tassels were added. Image 28 shows the final blanket, including tassels, covering the Queen size bed in the bedroom.
Final sizes:
200cm wide, including tassels, 180cm without them;
260cm long with tassels, 250cm without them.
24 skeins of yarn were used to complete 110 rows and 4 skeins were used to make 200 tassels. Some of the yarn was left over.
I used a 6mm crochet hook.

More photos of the crocheted black & white Granny on the Straight blanket:

It took 5 weeks to make the blanket. It was given as a gift to my bioenergy therapist 2 weeks ago. It took him by surprise:

” How much does it cost me?”, he asked me.

“It is art for art”, I answered and received five hugs in a row.

It made me very happy to know that he liked it, and, also, it makes me very happy to know that you, my dear friends, like my very first blanket after the stroke as well. Until the next time.

The Coolorburbians.

Feb 252015
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Welcome to yet another pattern for a fancy stitch. We know that Halloween has already passed, but even so, adding a new stitch to your crochet dictionary is always a bonus. Today’s written instructions will show you how to crochet the spider stitch. You can use it to crochet scarves, cardigans, sweaters, even ponchos, etc.

You can take a look at the image bellow to see how the spider stitch looks like:

How to crochet the spider stitch, written instructions

Abbreviations:

ch– chain
ch- – chain from previous row
sc– single crochet stitch
dc– double crochet stitch
tr– triple crochet stitch

Level: beginner-intermediate.

Tip: The spider stitch is mostly based on the triple crochet stitch. Working this stitch requires you to keep a steady tension, so that the swatch will look even. Otherwise, the spiders will turn out messy.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 14 plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: 1dc in the 6th ch from the hook; * ch1; skip next ch from foundation ch; 1dc in next ch * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return (counts as a dc + ch1sp here and throughout).

Row 2: 1dc in the 2nd dc from previous row; * ch3; 1tr in each of next 4dc from previous row; ch3; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 3: 1dc in 2nd dc from previous row; * ch3; 1sc in each of next 4tr; ch3; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 4: 1dc in 2nd dc from previous row; * ch3; 1sc in each of next 4sc; ch3; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 5: repeat row 4.

Row 6: 1dc in next 2nd dc from previous row; * ch1; 1tr in 1st sc; ch1; 1tr in 2nd sc; ch1; 1tr in 3rd sc; ch1; 1tr in 4th sc; ch1; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 7: 1dc in 2nd dc from previous row; * ch1; 1dc in 1st tr; ch1; 1dc in 2nd tr; ch1; 1dc in 3rd tr; ch1; 1dc in 4th tr; ch1; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Repeat rows 2-7 to compete the pattern.

As usual, if you prefer the video instructions, you can watch the one below, that will show you how to crochet the spider stitch.

Photo gallery:

Happy spidering,
The Coolorburbians.

Dec 182014
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Winter has come and my mom was looking to make a few beanies for me and my sister and she didn’t know where to start. She used to be an avid crocheter, but since taking a break for a few years, she doesn’t remember patterns and things like that. I remembered I had written a pattern on how to crochet an urban slouchy beanie last year, but never got around to write then down on the website, so I told my mom to start with this beanie first.

The beanie will fit most adult sizes. Our beanie is 29cm long (approx. 11,4″) and 23cm wide (approx. 9″). We don’t know the measurements of the beanie for a child.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain;
ch- – refers to chain previously made;
sc – single crochet;
dc – double crochet;
sl st – slip stitch;
st(s) – stitch(es)

Level: beginner – intermediate .

Needed time: 3-6 hours.

There are a few tips I’d like to share with you before you begin your beanie.

The beanie should look like the ones in the images below.


1. You will need a small amount of yarn to crochet the beanie. You can use up to 5 colors, just like my mom did. We will name these colors A, B, C, D and E. The yarn can be leftovers from your previous crochet projects. Mom used approximately 30 g (approx. 1 oz) for each ball of yarn. So approx. 150 g (~ 5 oz) in total.

2. The texture of the yarn is very important. I mean, getting the right type of yarn is imperative. For this beanie you will need light yarn which you can also find under the name DK and worsted yarn. Mom tried using fine yarn and the beanie was far too slouchy. If you use thicker yarn, the beanie will be too tight and not slouchy enough.

3. You will need a 4mm and a 5mm crochet hook and a pair of scissors. Rounds 1-20 will be completed using the 5mm crochet hook. Rounds 21-30 will be completed using the 4mm crochet hook.

All this materials are shown in image 1:

How to crochet  an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 1

4. You need to know how to crochet the single crochet stitch, the double crochet stitch and how to slip stitch. Try crocheting these stitches a little tighter and even. Otherwise, the beanie will look too airy.

5. A lot of colors will be changed. A new color will be attached to the crochet hook through a slipknot (image 2) and then attached to the beanie with a slip stitch (image 3). There will be a lot of loose ends. Do not leave them out. Sewing loose ends is more difficult, I believe. Conceal these loose ends while crocheting (image 4).

Let’s begin.

Round 1: use the 5mm crochet hook; start with color A; ch2; work 12dc in 2nd ch from the hook; join last dc with first dc with a sl st (12 sts). (Images 5 to 8).

Round 2: ch3 (counts as a dc here and throughout); 1dc in the same st as ch-3 (image 9); 2dc in each st around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (24 sts).(image 10)

Round 3: attach color B with a sl st in any st from previous round (tip: does not need to be on top of the beginning ch-3 from previous round); ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 2 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 2dc * ; (image 11) repeat from * to * ; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (32 sts). (image 12).

Round 4: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 3 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 3dc * ; (image 13) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (40 sts). (image 14)

Round 5: attach color C in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 4 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 4dc * ; (image 15) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (48 sts). (image 16)

Round 6: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 5 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 5dc * ; (image 17) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (56 sts). (image 18)

Round 7: attach color D in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 6 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 6dc * ; (image 19) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (64 sts). (image 20)

Round 8: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 7 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 7dc * ; (image 21) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (72 sts). (image 22)

Round 9: attach color E in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch3; 1dc in next st; 1dc in each dc around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (72 sts). (image 23)

How to crochet  an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 23

Round 10: ch3; 1dc in next st; 1dc in each st around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (72 sts). (image 24)

How to crochet  an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 24

Rounds 11-20: repeat rounds 9, 10 alternating between colors A, B, C, D and E (72 sts on each round). Image 25 will show you 20 completed rounds.

How to crochet  an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 25

Round 21: switch to the 4mm crochet hook; attach color A in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch1; 1sc in same st as ch-1; (image 26) 1sc in next st; 1sc in each st from previous round; join last sc with first sc with a sl st (72 sts). (image 27)

Round 22: ch1; 1sc in same st as ch-1; 1sc in next st; 1sc in each of next sts around ; join last sc with first sc with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (72 sts).

Round 23-30: repeat rounds 21, 22 alternating between colors B, C, D, E (72 sts on each round). (image 28)

How to crochet  an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 28

Cut last color and fasten off. Conceal the loose end around the last round with sl st (image 29).

How to crochet  an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 29

That’s all, folks!

I hope your urban slouchy beanie looks wonderful on you. If you wish to share photos of your finished beanie, you can do so on our Facebook wall that you can find in the right sidebar.

Happy slouching,
The Coolorburbians.

Nov 092014
 

Abbreviations:

ch – chain;
ch- – refers to chain previously made;
ch-sp – chain space;
dc – double crochet;
beg ch – beginning chain space.

Level: beginner.

Tip: Before committing yourself to a larger project, learn the new stitch on a smaller swatch.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 6, plus 3 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work 1dc in the 6th ch from the hook; * skip ch-4; work [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in next ch; [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in next ch *; repeat from * to * ; finish the row by skipping ch-4; work [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in the last chain; ch4 to return (counts as a 1dc+ch-1sp).

Row 2: work 1dc in the first dc of the previous row; * skip the next 2dc from previous row; work [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in the next dc; [ 1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in the next dc from previous row; repeat from * to * ; finish the row by working [1dc, 1ch, 1dc] in the beg ch; work another ch4 to return.

Repeat row 2 to complete the pattern.

How to crochet an opposed V stitch

How to crochet an opposed V stitch

Happy crocheting!