Nov 252017
 

Dear Artsy&Crafts Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial I am going to show you how to crochet a colorful sweater using the Traditional Solid Granny Square, as shown in the picture below.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

You might think it is hard, but that’s not the case. So let’s get started.

Abbreviations:

ch- – chain
ch-X-sp – chain X space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner

Size: L, 40

Tips:

1. To make your sweater as colorful as possible, you will need a variety of colors. So make an inventory of all the leftover yarn or buy new ones. Or you can make it with as many colors as you want, even two or just one, in which case you won’t have to cut the yarn and fasten off the yarn as much. The instructions will be the same. All in all, you will need about 800 grams ( approx. 29 ounces) of yarn in total.

2. For this project, we used 100% light worsted acrylic yarn. If you use a thicker yarn, the size will differ.

3. You will need a 4mm EU size (7-I9), 5mm EU size, a pair of scissors, tape measurement, like in the photo below (imag.1).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.1

4. Try to keep a steady tension when crocheting the stitches to make the project look even and neat.

5. If you decide to work with multiple colors, be aware that you will have lots of loose ends. When working solid Granny squares, you will attach the new color as follows: make a knot, (imag. 2) join with sl st ]n ch-2-sp (imag. 3), which is the corner of the solid granny square. You will do the same when working the sleeves, chest or back.

6. Don’t forget to hide all the loose ends as you crochet ( imag. 4). If you leave them for later, it will be a lot more difficult and time consuming.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.4

7. You will crochet 2 big solid Granny squares, one for front, one for back. Each square will have 20 rows. When you finish working one square, you will add 15 rows of double crochet to each square to complete the chest and the back. Then, you will work the sleeves, an edge using the single crochet and, finally, the collar.

Having said that, let’s get to work.

Part 1: How to crochet the two solid Granny squares

Row 1: with first color work 2ch (imag.5); work [ 3dc in 1st ch; 2 h (imag.6,7)] x 4; join with sl st last ch-2 with first dc; cut the thread and fasten off; you will have: 3dc on each side, 12 dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp (which represent the corners of the square)(imag. 8)

Row 2: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp; work 3ch (this counts as a dc here and throughout); work 1dc in same ch-sp as the 3ch (imag. 9); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row (imag 10); * work [2dc, 2 ch, 2dc] in next ch-2-sp (imag. 11); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch -3 with sl st; cut the thread and fasten off . You will have: 7dc on each side, 28dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.12)

Row 3: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2-sp as 3ch (imag.13); work 1dc in each of next 7dc from previous row (imag. 14); * work [2dc, 2ch,2dc] in next ch-2sp, (imag. 15) and 1dc in each of the next 7 dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 11dc on each side, 44dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.(imag. 16)

Row 4: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 17), and 1dc in each of the 11dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.18), and 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 15dc on each side, 60dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.19)

Row 5: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 20), and 1dc in each of the 15dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.21), and 1dc in each of next 15dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 19dc on each side, 76dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.22)

The square will increase in size in the ch-2-sp corners which each row. Each side of the square will have 4 extra dc (16dc in total on each row). Following this principle and the instructions from the previous rows, please work the next 15 rows. To give you extra help, will count the number of dc for each row.

Row 6: you will have: 23dc on each side, 92dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 7: 27dc on each side, 108dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 8: 31dc on each side, 124dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 9: 35dc on each side, 140dc in total, 4ch-2-sp.

Row 10: 39dc on each side, 156dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag. 23)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.23

Row 11: 43dc on each side, 172dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 12: 47dc on each side, 188dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 13: 51dc on each side, 204 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 14: 55dc on each side, 220 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 15: 59dc on each side, 236 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 16: 63dc on each side, 252 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 17: 67dc on each side, 268 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 18: 71dc on each side, 284 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 19: 75dc on each side, 300 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 20: 79dc on each side, 316 in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.24)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.24

Part 2: How to crochet the chest and the back

The pattern is the same for both chest and back. You work the rows horizontically on either side of the squares.

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp ; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout)(imag. 25); work 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row of the square, 1dc in next ch-2-sp; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag.26,27)

Rows 2-15: join new color with sl st in last dc from previous row; work 3c, and 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag. 28, 29)

Part 3: How to join the front and the back

Join the two sides of the sweater, front and back, with sl st. Insert crochet hook in any ch-2-sp from opposite side of the one you worked the 15 rows, simultaneously in both squares and start to sl st. Insert hook in next dc, simultaneously in both squares and sl st. Repeat until end of rows. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag 30)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.30

Part 4: How to join the shoulders

Join the shoulders the same as the front and back, with sl st. Don’t forget to leave enough space for the neck. (imag. 31)
At this point, your project will look like a vest.

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.31

Part 5: How to crochet the sleeves

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc in the space designed for the sleeve; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout), and 1dc in same dc as ch-3; work 2dc on the horizontal side of each dc in the sleeve space until you finish; join last dc with top of beg. ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 60dc in total ( imag. 32)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.32

Rows 2-35: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 3ch, and 1dc in each of next 59dc from previous row; join last dc with top beg ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. There will be 60dc in total (imag. 33).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.33

Part 6: How to work the edges

You will need the 4mm crochet hook. You will use single crochet stitches and work in circle.

a)The edge at the bottom of squares:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any ch-2-sp from bottom side of the Granny square; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 79dc from the bottom side of square1; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; 1sc in next 79dc from bottom side of square2; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; join with first sc with sl st; cut and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag 34, 35)

Rows2-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 161sc from previous row; join with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag.36)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.36

b)The sleeve edge:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 1ch; insert hook in same space as ch-1 and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all the 3 loops on the hook (imag. 37, 38); * insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all 3 loops on the hook (imag. 39,40) *; repet from * to *; join last sc with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 30sc in total. (imag. 41)

Row 2: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops on the hook; * insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops *; repeat from * to *; join with first ch-1 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 20 sc in total.

Rows 3-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 19sc in each of the next 20sc from previous row; join with sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and afsten off. You will have 20sc in total. (imag.42)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.42

Part 7: How to work the collar

Join desired color with sl st in any of dc from within the collar space; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 1sc in each of the next dc from previous row within the collar area; join wih sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag. 43)

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.43

Congratulations! You’ve just finished a super colorful sweater. Enjoy it.

Happy joining colors,

The Coolorburbians.

Sep 262016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Today, we are going to teach you how to crochet a square around a circle.
There are many ways to crochet a circle. Also, there are lots of variations in the number of rounds you can crochet for a circle, for instance, a circle with two rounds, a circle with three rounds, or more. Crocheting a circle with 2 rounds is different from crocheting a circle with 3 rounds. This is based on the number of double crochet stitches you are using on the first round. There are video tutorials showing both types of circles on my YouTube channel, which you can find by following the links below:
How to crochet a circle with 2 rounds: part 1 and part 2.
How to crochet a circle with 3 rounds: part 1, part 2 and part 3.
We had to reconfigure the number of stitches on each round so as to have an even number of stitches to match a square.

How to crochet a square around a circle

Let’s get started!

Abbreviations:
beg ch – beginning chain
ch – chain
ch-x-sp – chain x space
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch

Level: beginner.

Part 1: How to crochet a circle with 3 rounds

Ch 4. Join with first ch with sl st to make a ring.

Round 1: ch3 (counts as a dc here and throughout); 11dc in the ring; join with top beg ch3 with sl st. (12dc in total)

Round 2: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch3; (2dc in next dc from previous round) X 11 times; join with top of beg ch 3 with sl st. (24dc in total)

Round 3: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch3; 1 dc in next dc; [2dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc] X 11 times; join with top of beg ch3 with sl st; (36dc in total)

If you want to continue with a different color, fasten off and attach the new color in any of the dc from previous round. We continued where we left off.

Part 2: How to crochet a square around a circle

Round 4: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch3; ch2; 2dc in next dc from previous round; * 2hdc in next 2 dc; 3sc in next 3 dc; 2hdc in next 2dc; 2dc in next dc; ch2; 2dc in next dc*; repeat from * to * two more times; finish the round: 2hdc in next 2 dc, 3sc in next 3dc, 2hdc in next 2dc; join with top of beg ch3 with sl st; (44dc and 4ch-2-sp in total).

Round 5: ch3; 1dc in next dc; (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next ch-2-sp; * 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous round; (2dc, ch2, 2dc in next ch-2-sp)*; repeat from * to * two more times; finish the round: 1 dc in each of next 9dc from previous round; join with top of beg ch3 with sl st; ( 60 dc and 4ch-2-sp in total).

Cut the yarn and fasten off.

If you want to make the square larger, you can crochet an extra round following the same instructions showed in row 5, making sure you enlarge the square size in corners.

If you prefer video instructions, here is the link showing you how to crochet a square around a circle.

Part 1: Hot to crochet a circle with 3 rounds

Part 2: How to crochet a square around a circle with 3 rounds

When you are done crocheting your project using our instructions, please share your photos on our Facebook page, in the sidebar.

Happy squaring circles,
The Coolorburbians.

Jul 062016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

I thought I should tell you that I’ve finally managed to overcome the lethargy after the stroke. In fact, even my sister, Ana-Maria, is feeling much better. We were both struck with apathy and with this sense of futility. But for the past few months I’ve started crocheting again and my sister started to learn how to crochet. I feel this overwhelming joy that I can hold the crochet hook without feeling frustrated that I can’t crochet double crochet stitches like I used to. I’m still limited to a few techniques and stitches, because of my blindness, but it’s better than nothing. Ever since I started crocheting I’ve been making shawl after shawl. Seven, to be more precise. Some of them I offered to friends as gifts, and the rest I intend to sell. But, even if I want to sell the complete project, that doesn’t mean that you do not have the right to know “the secret” behind the project. So, we decided to teach you how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape, like the one in the image below.

How to crochet a shawl in a triangle

You can also watch the video tutorials below on how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Let’s get started!

Abbreviations:

() – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

[] – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

beg ch – beginning chain

ch – chain

ch-x-sp – chain-x-space

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner.

Tips: Read my next article on tips and recommendations about how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape.

Work a loose ch of 5. Join 1st ch with last ch with a sl st to make a ring. (Tip: work around the ring and the loose end to avoid sewing).

Row 1: work 4ch (this represents 1dc and ch-1-sp here and across); 3dc inside the ring; 3ch to work the tip of the shawl; 3dc inside the ring; 1ch; 1dc inside the ring; 4ch to turn.

Row 2: work 3ch in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch,1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 3: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 4: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 5: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 3; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 3; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 6: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 4; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 4; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Rows 7-40/50: repeat row 6 following the same steps as shown in this row.

That’s it. Seriously. We are not going to write instructions for the next rows because it would be redundant. All you have to do is follow the instructions for rows 4-6. The only difference is that each side of the row will have an additional set of 3dc. This is how the shawl increases: on the sides and not on the tip, as you might think.

Don’t forget to read the article about tips and recommendations about how to crochet shawls in a triangle shape. We will also post an article to show you how to attach the tassels to a shawl. And lastly, feel free to post photos of your finished projects on our Facebook page.

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians

Jun 182016
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

In this post we will teach you how to crochet the Granny on the Straight stitch.

This stitch originates from the Traditional Granny Square. Unlike the traditional Granny square, the Granny on the Straight stitch is worked on the long or on the wide in straight rows (thus the name). It is one of the easiest and frequently used stitch. You can crochet a variety of projects with the Granny on the Straight, such as blankets, shawls, scarves, sweaters, blouses, handbags and much more. You just have to use your imagination.

Abbreviations :
ch – chain
ch-x-sp – chain x space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sp – space

And now let’s continue with some technical information:

– this stitch is worked in multiples of 4;

– because the foundation chain tends to stretch a lot because it is looser, we recommend crocheting a row of single crochet stitches for consolidation;

– the double crochet stitch is the main stitch used across the project; it is worked in sets of 3 double crochet stitches called shells (Note: shells are not necessarily crocheted with a fixed number of stitches, the number may vary from 3 to 9 , such as in the Catherine Wheels stitch);

– the shells are separated by a ch-1-space, which creates a space between the sets.

When learning a new stitch, always crochet small swatches before committing yourself to bigger projects.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 4. Then work a row of single crochet stitches.

Row 1: work 3ch (they count as a dc here and across the project); work 2dc in the same sc as the ch-3; * 1ch; skip next 3sc from previous row; 3dc in 4th sc from previous row*; repeat from * to *; finish the row: 1ch, skip next 3sc, 3dc in last sc from previous row; work 4ch to turn (this counts as 1dc + ch-1 here and across).

Note: If you decide not to work the row of single crochet stitches, the instructions are the same. You will work the shells in the chains on the foundation chain and not in the single crochet. Here it goes: work 3ch; 2dc in 4th ch from foundation ch; *1ch; skip next 3ch; work 3dc in 4th ch from foundation ch*; repeat from * to *; finish the row: 1ch, skip 3ch from foundation ch, 3dc in last ch from foundation ch; work 4ch to turn.

Row 2: skip 1st shell of 3dc; work 3dc in next ch-1-space; * 1ch; skip next set of 3dc; work 3dc in next ch-1-space from previous row*; repeat from * to *; finish the row: 1ch, 1dc in last ch-3 from previous row (this sp is the same as the ch-4-sp from the beginning of the row); work 3ch to turn.

Row 3: work 2dc in 1st ch-1-sp from previous row (these 2dc + ch-3 make a shell); *1ch; skip next set of 3dc; work 3dc in next ch-1-sp from previous row*; repeat fro * to *; finish the row: 1ch, 3dc in last ch-1-sp from previous row; work 4ch to turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern.

If you worked a row of single crochet stitches at the beginning you need to finish the project with a row of single crochet stitches as well. So, work 1sc in each dc from previous row, including the ch-1-sps as well.

We hope that our instructions will help you learn the Granny on the Straight stitch.

We would be happy if you uploaded photos of your finished projects using this stitch on our Facebook page, which you can find in the right column.

If you prefer video tutorials, you can watch them following the links bellow:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 4:

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians.

Jun 082015
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

It has been a long time since we last posted instructions for crochet stitches. We are going through major changes, but once in a while, we like to get our hands on crochet tools and play. Today we are posting instructions on how to crochet a pairing of single and double crochet stitches. It is a simple, yet very good looking to the eye stitch.

How to crochet a pairing of single and double crochet stitches

Abbreviations:
ch – chain
chxsp – chain x space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet

Level: beginner.

Tips: Because it is summer and the stitch is a solid one, we would recommend using it to crochet a bag or a purse to go to the beach with. Also, make sure to keep the tension of the thread constant, so that your project will look even.

Work a loose chain from a multiple of 8 plus 4 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work 2dc in 4th ch from the hook; * skip 3ch; in next ch work [1sc, 3ch, 1sc]; skip next 3ch; in next ch work [2dc, 2ch, 2dc]*; repeat from * to *; to finish the row work 3dc in last ch of the foundation ch; work 3ch to return.

Row 2: work 1sc on top of last dc from previous row; *in the next ch3sp work [2dc, 2ch, 2dc]; in the next ch2sp work [ 1sc, 3ch, 1sc]*; repeat from * to *; to finish the row work [ 1sc, 3ch, 1sc] in top of beginning ch from previous row; work 3ch to return.

Row 3: in the first ch3sp from previous row work 2dc; * in the next ch2sp work [ 1sc, 3ch, 1sc]; in the next ch3sp work [ 2dc, 2ch, 2dc] *; repeat from * to *; to finish the row work 3dc in the last ch2sp; work 3ch to return.

Repeat rows to and 3 to complete the pattern.

How did you like the crochet stitch? Pretty easy, right!? We hope you enjoyed it and that you are going to use it to create many wonderful crochet projects.

Happy crocheting,

The Coolorburbians.

Feb 252015
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Welcome to yet another pattern for a fancy stitch. We know that Halloween has already passed, but even so, adding a new stitch to your crochet dictionary is always a bonus. Today’s written instructions will show you how to crochet the spider stitch. You can use it to crochet scarves, cardigans, sweaters, even ponchos, etc.

You can take a look at the image bellow to see how the spider stitch looks like:

How to crochet the spider stitch, written instructions

Abbreviations:

ch– chain
ch- – chain from previous row
sc– single crochet stitch
dc– double crochet stitch
tr– triple crochet stitch

Level: beginner-intermediate.

Tip: The spider stitch is mostly based on the triple crochet stitch. Working this stitch requires you to keep a steady tension, so that the swatch will look even. Otherwise, the spiders will turn out messy.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 14 plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: 1dc in the 6th ch from the hook; * ch1; skip next ch from foundation ch; 1dc in next ch * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return (counts as a dc + ch1sp here and throughout).

Row 2: 1dc in the 2nd dc from previous row; * ch3; 1tr in each of next 4dc from previous row; ch3; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 3: 1dc in 2nd dc from previous row; * ch3; 1sc in each of next 4tr; ch3; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 4: 1dc in 2nd dc from previous row; * ch3; 1sc in each of next 4sc; ch3; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 5: repeat row 4.

Row 6: 1dc in next 2nd dc from previous row; * ch1; 1tr in 1st sc; ch1; 1tr in 2nd sc; ch1; 1tr in 3rd sc; ch1; 1tr in 4th sc; ch1; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Row 7: 1dc in 2nd dc from previous row; * ch1; 1dc in 1st tr; ch1; 1dc in 2nd tr; ch1; 1dc in 3rd tr; ch1; 1dc in 4th tr; ch1; 1dc in next dc; ch1; 1dc in next dc * ; repeat from * to * ; ch4 to return.

Repeat rows 2-7 to compete the pattern.

As usual, if you prefer the video instructions, you can watch the one below, that will show you how to crochet the spider stitch.

Photo gallery:

Happy spidering,
The Coolorburbians.

Feb 062015
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

We apologize for the over a month break, but, as you probably remember, one of The Coolorburbians is still recovering after a stroke (that’s me). So, my sister and I are now in Bucharest so I can get more alternative therapy. There is a noticeable progress with the therapy. In any case, since we have a little more free time on our hands, we decided to post patterns and stitches again.

Today’s written instructions will show you how to crochet the tulip stitch. Take a look at the pictures bellow to see how the stitch looks like:

The pattern can be used to crochet all sorts of items, such as scarves, hats, scoodies, vests, neck warmers, ear warmers, gloves and so on. There is no limit to the possibilities.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain
ch- – chain from previous row
chx-sp – chain x space
beg chx-sp – beginning chain x space
dc – double crochet

Level: beginner.

Tip: Before committing yourself to a large project, please crochet a smaller swatch before, so you can understand the basics of the tulip stitch better.

Work a loose chain from a multiple of 6 plus 4 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: in the 7th ch from the hook work [3dc, ch2, 1dc]; * skip next ch-5 from foundation chain; in next ch work [4dc, ch2, 1dc] * ; repeat from * to * ; to finish the row: skip next ch-2; 1dc in last ch; ch3 to return. (counts as a dc here and throughout).

Row 2: skip first 2dc from previous row; in next ch2-sp work [3dc, ch2, 1dc]; * skip next 5dc from previous row; in next ch2-sp work [4dc, ch2, 1dc] * ; repeat from * to * ; to finish the row: skip next 3dc from previous row; work 1dc in top of beg ch from previous row; ch3 to return.

Row 3: skip first 2dc from previous row; in next ch2-sp work [3dc, ch2, 1dc]; * skip next 5dc from previous; in next ch2-sp work [4dc, ch2, 1dc] * ; repeat from * to * ; to finish the row: skip 3dc; work 1dc in top of beg ch from previous row; ch3 to return.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to finish the pattern.

As usual, if you prefer video instructions, you can watch the tutorial bellow that will show you how to crochet the tulip stitch:

Happy tuliping,

The Coolorburbians.

Dec 152014
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Today’s written instructions will show you how to crochet the Moss Stitch. It is a fancy stitch that looks complicated, making you wonder: “How do you do this?” In reality, it is a very simple stitch and to make it, you will only need to know how to slip stitch and how to make half double crochet stitches. In combination, the two stitches will look like a bobble where the yarn will lay across the bobble on the diagonal.

Let’s get going.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch;

hdc – half double crochet;

Level: beginner – intermediate.

Tips:

The moss stitch will look more emphasized, when using a bulkier and junkier yarn and a bigger sized crochet hook (7mm and above).
When finishing a project using the moss stitch, the last row should end with single crochet stitches in order to look even with the beginning of the crochet project.

Make a loose chain from a multiple of 2, plus 1 extra chain to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work 1 sl st in the next ch from the hook; * 1hdc in next ch from the foundation ch; 1 sl st in next ch * ; repeat from * to * ; ch1 to turn.

Row 2: work 1hdc in 1st sl st; * 1 sl st in next 1hdc; 1hdc in next 1 sl st * ; repeat from * to * ; ch1 to turn.

Row 3: work 1 sl st in 1st 1hdc form previous row; * 1hdc in next 1 sl st; 1 sl st in next 1hdc * ; repeat from * to * ; CH1 to turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to compete the pattern.

Isn’t this very easy? Don’t be confused by the formula “1SLST…1HDC…”. The secret of this stitch is to alternate the two techniques on each row. What I mean is, you will need to work a slip stitch on top of the half double crochet stitch, and a half double crochet stitch on top of a slip stitch from the previous row.

I hope these written instructions will help you learn the moss stitch.

As usual, if you prefer a video tutorial instead, you can watch the one below that will show you how to crochet the moss stitch. However, the video does not tell you to make a foundation chain from multiples of 2 + 1, which is something I added in the written instructions to make the edges look more even.

The Moss Stitch – part 1:

The Moss Stitch – part 2:

The third video will show you a completed blanket I made two years ago using the moss stitch, ten skeins of bulky yarn in shades of white and and light green and a 9mm crochet hook.

Crocheted blanket using the moss stitch:

Happy mossing,
The Coolorburbians.

Dec 092014
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial, we will show you how to crochet the slip stitch. It is a very easy technique in crocheting and it is very useful when finishing a crochet project, or joining parts of a crochet project, like granny squares for a blanket, for example. We could say, it is the equivalent of sewing in the art of crocheting. The slip stitch is abbreviated SL ST in crochet patterns. Image 1 will show you that the slip stitch is used to join the beginning and the end of a small foundation chain in a small ring, in case of a crochet circle or a traditional granny square. Image 2 will show you that the slip stitch is used to join the end with the beginning of a round in case of a circle; image 3 will show you that this stitch is also used to finish a traditional granny square. The examples can continue.

Let’s get on with the instructions for the slip stitch.

For practice purposes, make a small foundation chain of 10 chains (image 4) – we might have added a few extra chains.

How to crochet the slip stitch

Image 4

Insert your crochet hook in the first chain from the hook (image 5). YO (yarn over) hook once (image 6). Pull the yarn through the chain (image 7). You will have two loops on the hook. Continue pulling the yarn through the first loop on the hook to form a first slip stitch (image 8).


Let’s make a second slip stitch, using the same steps mentioned above. * Insert your hook in the next chain of the foundation chain (image 9). YO hook once (image 10) and pull the yarn through the chain (image 11). Continue pulling the yarn to form a second slip stitch (image 12) *.


Now, all you have to do to crochet more slip stitches is to repeat the instructions between * and * . Images 13 to 16 will show you how to crochet a third slip stitch. Image 17 shows a complete row of slip stitches.

How to crochet the slip stitch

Image 17

Congrats!

You have just learned how to make the crochet slip stitch.

As usual, if you prefer video tutorials, you can watch the one bellow.

The second one added will show you how to slip stitch to finish the last row of the Tunisian stitch.

Happy slip stitching,

The Coolorburbians.

Dec 022014
 

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Welcome to yet another “name this stitch” written instructions. We thought the pattern looks like a rhombus, so we decided to name the stitch the elongated rhombus stitch. The pattern is composed from two parts: one that looks solid and one that looks like a lace. It can be used to make shawls, tops, scarves, shrugs, summer sweaters and many others.

How to crochet a beginner elongated rhombus stitch

How to crochet a beginner elongated rhombus stitch

Abbreviations:

chchain;
ch- – refers to chain previously made
ch-sp – chain space;
sc – single crochet;
dc – double crochet.

Level: beginner.

Tip: Because it tends to be a lacey stitch, we recommend that you use finer yarn and a smaller sized crochet hook (3,5-4mm).

Grab your yarn and crochet hook and let’s begin.

Work a loose chain from multiples of 4, plus 2 extra chains to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work 1sc in the 2nd ch from the hook; * work a ch5; skip ch3 from foundation ch; 1sc in next ch * ; repeat from * to * ; to finish the row: work a ch3 to turn (counts as a dc here and throughout).

Row 2: work 2dc in the first sc from previous row; * work 1sc in the next ch5sp; in the next 1sc work [2dc, 1ch, 2dc] * ; repeat from * to * ; to finish the row: work 1sc in the last ch5sp; 3dc in the last 1sc from previous row; ch1 to turn.

Row 3: work 1sc in the first dc from previous row; * work a ch5; skip next [2dc, 1sc, 2dc]; work 1sc in next ch1sp * ; repeat from * to * ; to finish the row: work 1sc in the beginning ch3; work ch3 to turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to complete the pattern.

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians.

P.S.: We are very interested in what you, guys, work with these new stitches. You can upload photos and share your projects with us and other crochet lovers on our Facebook wall that you can find in the right side bar.