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How to Crochet a Pair of Crocodile Mittens

Jun 042018

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Dear Arttsy Craftsy Friends ,

I can’t stop myself from trying new patterns and ways to use the crocodile stitch , now that I began mastering it , even with my eyes closed , which is not a figure of speech . Don’t forget that I still can’t see, which is sort of forcing me to try a certain type of crochet stitches . And the crocodile stitch is one of my favorite nowadays . I came up with three patterns using the crocodile stitch . They are easy , clear and are addressed to beginner-intermediate crocheters . These patterns include instructions on how to crochet a pair of mittens , a scarf and a hat .

Here is how you should make the pair of mittens :

Materials needed : I used a 5.5 mm European size crochet hook and a fine , light yarn , a blend of wool and acrylic yarn . Depending on the size of the mittens you plan to crochet , you will need between 250-350 meters of yarn . That is about a skein of yarn weighting around 75gr. .

I made three pairs of mittens so far . Two of them are a M size , whereas the third is a L size . The M ones are 8 cm in diameter and 24 cm long . The L ones are 9 cm in diameter and 24 cm long . My advice to you is to meassure your hand around your wrist using a centimeter to get the right size for yourself .

Abbreviations :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

Let’s begin .

Rows 1 and 2 : Chain 5 ; join with beginning chain with a slip stitch to form a ring ; chain 1 ; work 5dc in the ring ; ch6 ; work 5dc in the ring ; ch4 ( counts as a 1dc+ch1-sp here and throughout ) ;

Row 3 : Work 1dc in same sp as beg ch4 , in top of last executed dc from previous row ; ch1 ; V-st in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 . ( 3 V-st on row 3 )

Row 4 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around the first post of the V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; skip next V-st ; work a second crocodile scale around last V-st ; ch4 and turn . ( 2 scales onn row 4 )

Row 5 : Work 1dc in same space as beg ch4 ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of V-st , making sure you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales from previous row ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in thee middle of second scale ; ch1 ; V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 to turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 )

Row 6 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; ch1 skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; ch4 to turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 )

Row 7 : 1dc in same space as beg ch4 ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; * 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of next V-st , making sure you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales from previous row ; ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale * ; repeat from * to * once ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 to turn . ( 7 V-st on row 7 )

Row 8 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; * skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; ch1 * ; repeat from * to * once ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; ch4 to turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : 1dc in same space as beg ch4 ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; * 1 V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of next V-st , making sure you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales from previous row ; ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale * ; repeat from * to * twice ; ch1 ; 1 V-st in top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the side ; ch1 to turn .( 9 V-st on row 9 )

Row 10 : Working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; ch1 ; * skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; ch1 * ; repeat from * to * twice ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

At this point , you should take a look at the size of the triangle you made so far to make sure it fits your arm . To do verify this , wrap the triangle around your wrist . Are you able to join the ends of row 10 in one large ring ? If the triangle is too small , then you should work two extra rows , which will be a repeat of rows 9 and 10 , but making sure you enlarge the size of the triangle on the sides . If this is not neccessary , then continue the following steps for the size M mittens .

Row 11 : Join the last dc you just finished with top of first dc of the set of 5dc on the other side of row 10 with a slip stitch to form a ring ; ch4 ; 1dc in the same spacee as beg ch4 , between the two joined scales on the sides ; ch1 ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; ch1 ; V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of V-st , making suree you also grab and work around the ch1 between the scales * ; repeat from * to * around ;; ch1 ; join with third ch of beg ch4 with a slip stitch ; ch3 and do not turn . ( 11 V-st on row 11 )

Row 12 : Working from top to bottom , make 4dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; * ch1 ; skip next V-st ; 1 crocodile scale around next V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; ch1 ; join with top of beg ch3 of the first executed scale with a slip stitch ; do not turn . ( 6 crocodile scales on row 12 )

Row 13 : Ch4 and work 1dc in same space , making sure you insert your hook in the middle of the V-st on the back of the work , grabing the ch1 between the two scales on the front as well ; ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale ; * ch1 ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the midle of next V-st , making sure you also grab and crochet around the ch1 between the two scales as well ; 1V-st in next ch1-sp , in the middle of crocodile scale * ; repeat from * to * around ; ch1 ; join with third ch of beeg ch4 with a slip stitch ; ch3 . ( 11 V-st on row 13 )

Row 14 : Working from top to bottom , make 4dc around first post of V-st ; ch1 ; working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st ; * ch1 ; skip next V-st ; 1 crocodile scale around next V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; ch1 ; join with top of beg ch3 of the first executed scale with a slip stitch ; do not turn . ( 6 crocodile scales on row 14 )

Repeat rows 13 and 14 as many times as you like , in case you prefer your mittens to b shorter or longer . I stopped at row 36 . To end your work , please add an extra row of sc around . This is important because it secures your work properly and helps avoid your work to loosen up with time .

So that’s it , folks ! Was it hard ? I am sure it wasn’t at all , since even I was able to crochet this pair of mittens and I do not see ! Despite my disability , I would be very happy if you shared your pictures with your finished mittens on our Facebook page . You can find it on the sidebar .

My sister , Ana Maria , did all the photo shooting , correcting the errors in my written instructions and many more . Like translating the pattern in our native language , Romanian .

In case , you should also take a look at the patterns on how to crochet a scarf and a hat using the crocodile stitch , just so that you have the full set of accessories for the upcoming fall season !

Happy crocheting !

How to Crochet The Crocodile Shawl

Shawls No Responses »

Feb 092018

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

There are many variations to the crocodile crochet stitch and even more applications and ways to use it to make all sorts of items , from blankets , pillow cases , hats , mittens , shawls , cardigans and so many more . I am currently experimenting with these variations to create patterns for small items just to keep my hands and imagination busy . Let me remind you that I lost my sight in November 2013 after suffering a stroke that I wrote about on my personal blog . You can read the story here . But let’s go back to the crocodile stitch . I put together a video tutorial on how to crochet the crocodile stitch that you can follow bellow .

However , today’s instructions will show you a variation of this beautiful crochet stitch . Why is that ? It is easier for me to use this variation because of the extra chain 1 spaces . Since I no longer see , I need to use my touching quite a lot to figure out a pattern . Which is why I prefer the lacey stitches a lot more rather than the solid block stitches . Thankfully , the crocodile stitch falls under the first category which I like . So now let me explain to you how I was able to crochet the crocodile shawl that you can see in the images bellow , even though I don’t see . If you prefer visual instructions , you can follow my video tutorial on YouTube on how to crochet this type of shawl that I made shortly before the stroke . As far as I remember , the video also uses a small variation of the stitch . Either way will work just fine .

Information about the materials and tools needed :

1. I used 13 skeins of superfine yarn for the entire project , including the tassels , which I prefer long and thick . I wanted to make a large crocodile shawl because this is how I like them better , long and large . Which is why I used so many skeins of yarn . But if you want to make a scarf or a smaller shawl , then you should get 8 skeins . The information on the label is as follows : 50g (1,76 oz), 255m (~ 278yds), 71% acrylic, 24% wool, 5% metallic yarn, needle 2.50mm.

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook , even though the label on the yarn recommends using a smaller size . I chose the 6 mm one because I can’t really hold a smaller hook in my hand . Blind people usually tend to work with big hooks and needles and bulky wool . I should admit that making this shawl was a dare . But the result turned out beautifully , which is why I couldn’t care less about all that effort , sweat , blood and tears .

3. It took me approximately 2 weeks to finish this shawl , with an average of one skein per day used .

4. Sizes: Width= 200cm (78,74 inch), Height= 82cm (32,38 inch), Sides= 128cm (50 inch), Tassels= 17cm (6,7 inch).

Abbreviations and how tos :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stictch;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in space recommended and work 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

The shawl will be worked in rows , with the start at the tip of the shawl . It will grow in size on each row , on the edges . Which is why I am only going to explain how to crochet the first rows , the rest of them being a repeat of these first , making sure you add the necessary stitches on the sides to enlarge your shawl .

Row 1 and row 2 : Ch5 ; join with beg ch with sl st to form a ring ; ch 1 ; 5dc in ring ; ch1 ; 5dc in ring ; turn .

Imag.1

Row 3 : Ch4 ( counts as 1dc+ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same space as ch-4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale from previous row ; V-st in top of the first dc on one of the sides of the scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 3 V-st on row 3, see image bellow )

Imag.2

Row 4 : 1scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1scale around last V-st ; turn . ( 2 scales on row 4 , see image bellow )

Imag.3

Row 5 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; V-st in next ch1 sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on one of the sides of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 , see image bellow )

Imag.4

Row 6 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 , see image bellow )

Imag.5

Row 7 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * once ; v-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of last scale from previous row ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 7 V-sts on row 7 )

Row 8 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; * repeat fromm * to * once ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the two scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 9 V-sts on row 9 )

Row 10 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last V-st on the side from previous row ; turn . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

Rows 11-110 : Repeat rows 9-10 , making sure you enlarge the shawl on the sides , as explained and shown in the previous paragraphs .

Row 111 : 1sc in each chain space and stitch from rows 109 and 110 , making sure you grab and crochet around the spaces between the scales and in the middle of the scales from previous row as well / This row is necessary for a stronger foundation when you finish the shawl .

This is about it . Trust me when I say this , the pattern is not complicated at all . And the crocodile stitch is a lot easier to execute than it meets the eye . Even *I* was able to make it and I don’t see . I wrote the instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to a shawl in a different article for a better management of this website . You can find it here . I hope my instructions are of help to you and that you now have a long and gorgeous shawl wrapped around yourself for the upcoming spring . Please share photos of your work on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians) .

How to Crochet a Slouchy Crocodile Beret

Beanies, Hats, Hoodies, Scoodies & Co. 1 Response »

Dec 222017

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

I admit that I only began writing instructions for my crochet projects recently , after resuming my hand made hobby last year , in March . Putting these instructions together is a great adventure for me , since I still am unable to see , which means that I have to write down the steps using a lot of my imagination and visual memory . This is a marvelous thing happening to me since visualizing things is a recommended exercise for people who have lost their sight . So let’s see how this is going to go . Please address notes to me about any mistakes you may find throughout the instructions for a Christmas crocheted beret using the crocodile stitch as the main technique .

Crocodile Stitch Beret

Materials and other information :

I used three skeins of yarn , one white and two reds and a 5.5 mm and a 4.5 mm European size crochet hooks , as seen in the image bellow . The yarn is 100% acrylic yarn , 75 grams per skein , 210 meters long , from a Romanian brand called ‘Adina’ . I recommend that you use similar materials , including the hook sizes for the instructions to work the best . If you prefer crocheting the crocodile beret in one color , I still suggest that you get three skeins of your preferred color . Better be safe than sorry . Besides that , you are going to need the remaining yarn to make the pompon . This is a pattern for beginner-intermediate crocheters . It took me three days to finish the beret , but then again things take me a little longer to complete . But if you are going to start like NOW , you may be over in time for Christmas with a beautiful beret that you can wear yourself or give away as a gift to someone dear .

The beret will fit a medium adult size. Unstretched, the headband is 51cm in circumference.

Imag.1

Abbreviations and how-to’s :

ch – chain ;

ch-1 sp – chain 1 space ;

sl st – slip stitch ;

YO – yarn over

hdc – half double crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

hdc V-st– half double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1hdc , ch1 , 1hdc ) ;

dc V-st – double crochet V stitch ( insert hook in next space recommended and work a set of 1dc , ch1 , 1dc ) ;

fpdc – front post double crochet ( insert hook behind the next recommended stitch from right to left, as seen in the image bellow , making sure you YO once before this step ; twirl the hook and YO again , just like you would crochet a normal dc ; now you have three loops on your hook ; YO again and pull through first two loops on your hook ; YO one last time and pull through last two loops on your hook ; the dc should look as if pushed in front – see images bellow )

: Imag.2

: Imag.3

: Imag.4

: Imag.5

: Imag.6

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom work 5 dc around post of first dc of next V-st, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways, working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc (see image bellow).

: Imag.7

: Imag.8

How to crochet the headband :

Begin with white and the 5.5 mm hook . Chain 13 .

Row 1 : Skip first 2ch ( they count as 1hdc here and throughout ) ; 1dc in each of next 10 chains ; 1hdc in last ch ; ch 2 ; turn .

Row 2 : 1fpdc in second dc from previous row ; 1fpdc in each of the next 9dc ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch2 ; turn .

: Imag.10

: Imag.9

Rows 3-56 : Begin in the second fpdc , 1fpdc in each fpdc across the row ; 1hdc in top of beg ch2 from previous row ; ch 2 ( skip this last step when you get to row 56 ) ; turn .

Your headband should look like mine , as seen in the image bellow . Each row of the crocheted headband has 12 stitches , 10 of which are fpdc and 2 hdc on the sides.

Imag.11

If you are going to switch the color into the red one , then please cut the yarn , leaving about a 10 cm long tail for sewing , . If you continue working the beret using the same color , then please use sl st to join the two sides together, as shown in image bellow.

Imag.12

How to crochet the main part of the beret:

Turn the headband on one side. You will work in rounds from now on.

Round 1 : Attach the red color in any ch2 on side of the beret you chose with a sl st ; ch 4 ( counts as 1dc and a ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same ch2 as the previous ch4 ; * skip next hdc on the side ; dc V-st in next ch2 * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last hdc on the side ; join in the 3rd ch of the beg ch4 with sl st . ( 28 dc V-st in total , see image bellow ); do not turn.

Imag.13

Round 2 : Ch3 ( counts as 1dc here and throughout ) ; working from top to bottom around post of first dc of first V-st , work 4dc ; ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down (V point of V-st will be facing right); working from bottom to top around post of second dc of V-st, work 5 dc ; * skip next dc V-st ; 1 scale around the next dc V-st * ; repeat from * to * around ; skip last dc V-st ; join with top of beg ch3 with a sl st ; do not turn . (14 scales in total)

Imag.14

Round 3 : Insert hook in the ch-1 sp between the two scales from previous row and work 1sc , making sure you crochet around both the ch-1 sp and the sp between the scales ; ch4 ; 1dc in same sp as ch4 ; * dc V-st in next ch-1 sp in the middle of the next scale ; dc V-st in the next ch-1 sp , making sure you crochet around the sp between the the two scales from previous row as well * ; repeat from * to * around ; dc V-st in last ch-1 sp in the middle of last scale ; join in the 3rd ch of ch4 with a sl st ; do not turn . (28 dc V-st in total)

Round 4 : repeat round 2 .

Rounds 5-22 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , alternating between them .

Rounds 23-24 : Repeat rounds 3 and 4 , but using the 4.5 mm crochet hook .

Round 25 : Repeat row 3 with the following notes : change beg ch4 with a ch3 ; change dc V-st with hdc V-st ; join in the second ch from the beg ch3 with a sl st ; use the same 4.5 mm crochet hook . (28 hdc V-sts in total)

Round 26 : Ch 2 (counts as a hdc); working from top to bottom around post of first hdc of first V-st, work 3 fphdc, ch 1, turn work so V-st is sideways and post of second dc of V-st is upside down, working from bottom to top around post of second hdc of V-st, work 4 fphdc; * skip next hdc V-st; 1 hdc scale around next hdc V-st, making sure you crochet 4hdc around each hdc post instead of 5, like you did so far*; repeat from * to *; skip last hdc V-st; join with top of beg ch-2 with a sl st; do not turn. (14 smaller scales in total)

Round 27 : Repeat round 25 . Leave a long thread to use for sewing top of beret.

Imag.15

Closing hat top: With yarn needle, thread tail through spaces of hdc V-sts of last round twice, pull gently to gather top tightly, and knot securely. (See following image)

Imag.16

How to make the pompon :
Wind yarn around a piece of hard cardboard 13cm long approx 150 times ( we used a plastic cover); tie tightly in the middle and leave a long end for attaching to hat; cut loops at both ends and trim to smooth round shape; sew securely to top of hat. See images below:

: Imag.17

: Imag.18

: Imag.19

: Imag.20

: Imag.21

: Imag.22

I hope you like it. Happy crocheting and
Merry Christmas,
The Coolorburbians.

How to crochet a super colorful sweater with a solid Granny square

Sweaters, Pullovers & Cardigans No Responses »

Nov 252017

Dear Artsy&Crafts Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial I am going to show you how to crochet a colorful sweater using the Traditional Solid Granny Square, as shown in the picture below.

You might think it is hard, but that’s not the case. So let’s get started.

Abbreviations:

ch- – chain
ch-X-sp – chain X space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner

Size: L, 40

Tips:

1. To make your sweater as colorful as possible, you will need a variety of colors. So make an inventory of all the leftover yarn or buy new ones. Or you can make it with as many colors as you want, even two or just one, in which case you won’t have to cut the yarn and fasten off the yarn as much. The instructions will be the same. All in all, you will need about 800 grams ( approx. 29 ounces) of yarn in total.

2. For this project, we used 100% light worsted acrylic yarn. If you use a thicker yarn, the size will differ.

3. You will need a 4mm EU size (7-I9), 5mm EU size, a pair of scissors, tape measurement, like in the photo below (imag.1).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.1

4. Try to keep a steady tension when crocheting the stitches to make the project look even and neat.

5. If you decide to work with multiple colors, be aware that you will have lots of loose ends. When working solid Granny squares, you will attach the new color as follows: make a knot, (imag. 2) join with sl st ]n ch-2-sp (imag. 3), which is the corner of the solid granny square. You will do the same when working the sleeves, chest or back.

: Imag.3

: Imag.2

6. Don’t forget to hide all the loose ends as you crochet ( imag. 4). If you leave them for later, it will be a lot more difficult and time consuming.

Imag.4

7. You will crochet 2 big solid Granny squares, one for front, one for back. Each square will have 20 rows. When you finish working one square, you will add 15 rows of double crochet to each square to complete the chest and the back. Then, you will work the sleeves, an edge using the single crochet and, finally, the collar.

Having said that, let’s get to work.

Part 1: How to crochet the two solid Granny squares

Row 1: with first color work 2ch (imag.5); work [ 3dc in 1st ch; 2 h (imag.6,7)] x 4; join with sl st last ch-2 with first dc; cut the thread and fasten off; you will have: 3dc on each side, 12 dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp (which represent the corners of the square)(imag. 8)

: Imag.8

: Imag.7

: Imag.6

: Imag.5

Row 2: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp; work 3ch (this counts as a dc here and throughout); work 1dc in same ch-sp as the 3ch (imag. 9); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row (imag 10); * work [2dc, 2 ch, 2dc] in next ch-2-sp (imag. 11); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch -3 with sl st; cut the thread and fasten off . You will have: 7dc on each side, 28dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.12)

: Imag.12

: Imag.11

: Imag.10

: Imag.9

Row 3: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2-sp as 3ch (imag.13); work 1dc in each of next 7dc from previous row (imag. 14); * work [2dc, 2ch,2dc] in next ch-2sp, (imag. 15) and 1dc in each of the next 7 dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 11dc on each side, 44dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.(imag. 16)

: Imag.16

: Imag.15

: Imag.14

: Imag.13

Row 4: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 17), and 1dc in each of the 11dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.18), and 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 15dc on each side, 60dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.19)

: Imag.17

: Imag.18

: Imag.19

Row 5: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 20), and 1dc in each of the 15dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.21), and 1dc in each of next 15dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 19dc on each side, 76dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.22)

: Imag.20

: Imag.21

: Imag.22

The square will increase in size in the ch-2-sp corners which each row. Each side of the square will have 4 extra dc (16dc in total on each row). Following this principle and the instructions from the previous rows, please work the next 15 rows. To give you extra help, will count the number of dc for each row.

Row 6: you will have: 23dc on each side, 92dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 7: 27dc on each side, 108dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 8: 31dc on each side, 124dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 9: 35dc on each side, 140dc in total, 4ch-2-sp.

Row 10: 39dc on each side, 156dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag. 23)

Imag.23

Row 11: 43dc on each side, 172dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 12: 47dc on each side, 188dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 13: 51dc on each side, 204 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 14: 55dc on each side, 220 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 15: 59dc on each side, 236 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 16: 63dc on each side, 252 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 17: 67dc on each side, 268 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 18: 71dc on each side, 284 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 19: 75dc on each side, 300 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 20: 79dc on each side, 316 in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.24)

Imag.24

Part 2: How to crochet the chest and the back

The pattern is the same for both chest and back. You work the rows horizontically on either side of the squares.

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp ; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout)(imag. 25); work 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row of the square, 1dc in next ch-2-sp; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag.26,27)

: Imag.25

: Imag.26

: Imag.27

Rows 2-15: join new color with sl st in last dc from previous row; work 3c, and 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag. 28, 29)

: Imag.28

: Imag.29

Part 3: How to join the front and the back

Join the two sides of the sweater, front and back, with sl st. Insert crochet hook in any ch-2-sp from opposite side of the one you worked the 15 rows, simultaneously in both squares and start to sl st. Insert hook in next dc, simultaneously in both squares and sl st. Repeat until end of rows. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag 30)

Imag.30

Part 4: How to join the shoulders

Join the shoulders the same as the front and back, with sl st. Don’t forget to leave enough space for the neck. (imag. 31)
At this point, your project will look like a vest.

Imag.31

Part 5: How to crochet the sleeves

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc in the space designed for the sleeve; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout), and 1dc in same dc as ch-3; work 2dc on the horizontal side of each dc in the sleeve space until you finish; join last dc with top of beg. ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 60dc in total ( imag. 32)

Imag.32

Rows 2-35: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 3ch, and 1dc in each of next 59dc from previous row; join last dc with top beg ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. There will be 60dc in total (imag. 33).

Imag.33

Part 6: How to work the edges

You will need the 4mm crochet hook. You will use single crochet stitches and work in circle.

a)The edge at the bottom of squares:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any ch-2-sp from bottom side of the Granny square; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 79dc from the bottom side of square1; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; 1sc in next 79dc from bottom side of square2; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; join with first sc with sl st; cut and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag 34, 35)

: Imag.34

: Imag.35

Rows2-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 161sc from previous row; join with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag.36)

Imag.36

b)The sleeve edge:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 1ch; insert hook in same space as ch-1 and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all the 3 loops on the hook (imag. 37, 38); * insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all 3 loops on the hook (imag. 39,40) *; repet from * to *; join last sc with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 30sc in total. (imag. 41)

: Imag.37

: Imag.38

: Imag.39

: Imag.40

: Imag.41

Row 2: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops on the hook; * insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops *; repeat from * to *; join with first ch-1 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 20 sc in total.

Rows 3-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 19sc in each of the next 20sc from previous row; join with sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and afsten off. You will have 20sc in total. (imag.42)

Imag.42

Part 7: How to work the collar

Join desired color with sl st in any of dc from within the collar space; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 1sc in each of the next dc from previous row within the collar area; join wih sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag. 43)

Imag.43

Congratulations! You’ve just finished a super colorful sweater. Enjoy it.

Happy joining colors,

The Coolorburbians.

How to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape

Randoms, Shawls No Responses »

Jul 062016

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

I thought I should tell you that I’ve finally managed to overcome the lethargy after the stroke. In fact, even my sister, Ana-Maria, is feeling much better. We were both struck with apathy and with this sense of futility. But for the past few months I’ve started crocheting again and my sister started to learn how to crochet. I feel this overwhelming joy that I can hold the crochet hook without feeling frustrated that I can’t crochet double crochet stitches like I used to. I’m still limited to a few techniques and stitches, because of my blindness, but it’s better than nothing. Ever since I started crocheting I’ve been making shawl after shawl. Seven, to be more precise. Some of them I offered to friends as gifts, and the rest I intend to sell. But, even if I want to sell the complete project, that doesn’t mean that you do not have the right to know “the secret” behind the project. So, we decided to teach you how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape, like the one in the image below.

You can also watch the video tutorials below on how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Let’s get started!

Abbreviations:

() – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

[] – work instructions within parentheses as may time as instructed

beg ch – beginning chain

ch – chain

ch-x-sp – chain-x-space

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner.

Tips: Read my next article on tips and recommendations about how to crochet a shawl in a triangle shape.

Work a loose ch of 5. Join 1st ch with last ch with a sl st to make a ring. (Tip: work around the ring and the loose end to avoid sewing).

Row 1: work 4ch (this represents 1dc and ch-1-sp here and across); 3dc inside the ring; 3ch to work the tip of the shawl; 3dc inside the ring; 1ch; 1dc inside the ring; 4ch to turn.

Row 2: work 3ch in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch,1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 3: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc,3ch,3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; 3dc in next ch-1-sp; 1ch; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 4: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 2; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 5: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 3; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 3; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Row 6: work 3dc in first ch-1-sp which separates the last set of 3dc and the last 1dc; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp] X 4; (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) in next ch-3-sp; 1ch; [ 3dc in next ch-1-sp, 1ch] X 4; (3dc, 1ch, 1dc) in beg ch from previous row; 4ch to turn.

Rows 7-40/50: repeat row 6 following the same steps as shown in this row.

That’s it. Seriously. We are not going to write instructions for the next rows because it would be redundant. All you have to do is follow the instructions for rows 4-6. The only difference is that each side of the row will have an additional set of 3dc. This is how the shawl increases: on the sides and not on the tip, as you might think.

Don’t forget to read the article about tips and recommendations about how to crochet shawls in a triangle shape. We will also post an article to show you how to attach the tassels to a shawl. And lastly, feel free to post photos of your finished projects on our Facebook page.

Happy crocheting,
The Coolorburbians