the slip stitch – Coolorful.com

How to Crochet The Crocodile Shawl

Feb 092018

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends ,

There are many variations to the crocodile crochet stitch and even more applications and ways to use it to make all sorts of items , from blankets , pillow cases , hats , mittens , shawls , cardigans and so many more . I am currently experimenting with these variations to create patterns for small items just to keep my hands and imagination busy . Let me remind you that I lost my sight in November 2013 after suffering a stroke that I wrote about on my personal blog . You can read the story here . But let’s go back to the crocodile stitch . I put together a video tutorial on how to crochet the crocodile stitch that you can follow bellow .

However , today’s instructions will show you a variation of this beautiful crochet stitch . Why is that ? It is easier for me to use this variation because of the extra chain 1 spaces . Since I no longer see , I need to use my touching quite a lot to figure out a pattern . Which is why I prefer the lacey stitches a lot more rather than the solid block stitches . Thankfully , the crocodile stitch falls under the first category which I like . So now let me explain to you how I was able to crochet the crocodile shawl that you can see in the images bellow , even though I don’t see . If you prefer visual instructions , you can follow my video tutorial on YouTube on how to crochet this type of shawl that I made shortly before the stroke . As far as I remember , the video also uses a small variation of the stitch . Either way will work just fine .

Information about the materials and tools needed :

1. I used 13 skeins of superfine yarn for the entire project , including the tassels , which I prefer long and thick . I wanted to make a large crocodile shawl because this is how I like them better , long and large . Which is why I used so many skeins of yarn . But if you want to make a scarf or a smaller shawl , then you should get 8 skeins . The information on the label is as follows : 50g (1,76 oz), 255m (~ 278yds), 71% acrylic, 24% wool, 5% metallic yarn, needle 2.50mm.

2. I used a 6 mm European size crochet hook , even though the label on the yarn recommends using a smaller size . I chose the 6 mm one because I can’t really hold a smaller hook in my hand . Blind people usually tend to work with big hooks and needles and bulky wool . I should admit that making this shawl was a dare . But the result turned out beautifully , which is why I couldn’t care less about all that effort , sweat , blood and tears .

3. It took me approximately 2 weeks to finish this shawl , with an average of one skein per day used .

4. Sizes: Width= 200cm (78,74 inch), Height= 82cm (32,38 inch), Sides= 128cm (50 inch), Tassels= 17cm (6,7 inch).

Abbreviations and how tos :

ch – chain ;

ch sp – chain space ;

sl st – slip stictch;

sc – single crochet ;

dc – double crochet ;

V-st – V stitch ( insert hook in space recommended and work 1dc,1ch,1dc ) ;

crocodile scale – working from top to bottom , make 5dc around first post of V-st, ch-1, working from bottom to top , make 5dc around second post of V-st .

The shawl will be worked in rows , with the start at the tip of the shawl . It will grow in size on each row , on the edges . Which is why I am only going to explain how to crochet the first rows , the rest of them being a repeat of these first , making sure you add the necessary stitches on the sides to enlarge your shawl .

Row 1 and row 2 : Ch5 ; join with beg ch with sl st to form a ring ; ch 1 ; 5dc in ring ; ch1 ; 5dc in ring ; turn .

Imag.1

Row 3 : Ch4 ( counts as 1dc+ch-1 sp here and throughout ) ; 1dc in same space as ch-4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale from previous row ; V-st in top of the first dc on one of the sides of the scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 3 V-st on row 3, see image bellow )

Imag.2

Row 4 : 1scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1scale around last V-st ; turn . ( 2 scales on row 4 , see image bellow )

Imag.3

Row 5 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; V-st in next ch1 sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on one of the sides of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 5 V-st on row 5 , see image bellow )

Imag.4

Row 6 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 3 scales on row 6 , see image bellow )

Imag.5

Row 7 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale ; * repeat from * to * once ; v-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of last scale from previous row ; ch 1 ; turn . ( 7 V-sts on row 7 )

Row 8 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st ; * repeat fromm * to * once ; 1 scale around last V-st from previous row ; turn . ( 4 scales on row 8 )

Row 9 : Ch4 ; 1dc in same space as ch4 ; V-st in the middle of the scale ; * V-st in next ch1-sp , making sure you grab and crochet around the space between the two scales from previous row as well ; V-st in the middle of next scale * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; V-st in top of first dc of the 5dc on the side of the last scale from previous row ; ch1 ; turn . ( 9 V-sts on row 9 )

Row 10 : 1 scale around first V-st ; skip next V-st ; * 1 scale around next V-st ; skip next V-st * ; repeat from * to * across the row ; 1 scale around the last V-st on the side from previous row ; turn . ( 5 scales on row 10 )

Rows 11-110 : Repeat rows 9-10 , making sure you enlarge the shawl on the sides , as explained and shown in the previous paragraphs .

Row 111 : 1sc in each chain space and stitch from rows 109 and 110 , making sure you grab and crochet around the spaces between the scales and in the middle of the scales from previous row as well / This row is necessary for a stronger foundation when you finish the shawl .

This is about it . Trust me when I say this , the pattern is not complicated at all . And the crocodile stitch is a lot easier to execute than it meets the eye . Even *I* was able to make it and I don’t see . I wrote the instructions on how to make tassels and attach them to a shawl in a different article for a better management of this website . You can find it here . I hope my instructions are of help to you and that you now have a long and gorgeous shawl wrapped around yourself for the upcoming spring . Please share photos of your work on our Facebook page that you can find in the sidebar .

Happy crocodiling , everyone ,
Cătălina (from The Coolorburbians) .

How to crochet a super colorful sweater with a solid Granny square

Sweaters, Pullovers & Cardigans No Responses »

Nov 252017

Dear Artsy&Crafts Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial I am going to show you how to crochet a colorful sweater using the Traditional Solid Granny Square, as shown in the picture below.

You might think it is hard, but that’s not the case. So let’s get started.

Abbreviations:

ch- – chain
ch-X-sp – chain X space
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level: beginner

Size: L, 40

Tips:

1. To make your sweater as colorful as possible, you will need a variety of colors. So make an inventory of all the leftover yarn or buy new ones. Or you can make it with as many colors as you want, even two or just one, in which case you won’t have to cut the yarn and fasten off the yarn as much. The instructions will be the same. All in all, you will need about 800 grams ( approx. 29 ounces) of yarn in total.

2. For this project, we used 100% light worsted acrylic yarn. If you use a thicker yarn, the size will differ.

3. You will need a 4mm EU size (7-I9), 5mm EU size, a pair of scissors, tape measurement, like in the photo below (imag.1).

How To crochet A Super Colorful Sweater Using Solid Granny Square

Imag.1

4. Try to keep a steady tension when crocheting the stitches to make the project look even and neat.

5. If you decide to work with multiple colors, be aware that you will have lots of loose ends. When working solid Granny squares, you will attach the new color as follows: make a knot, (imag. 2) join with sl st ]n ch-2-sp (imag. 3), which is the corner of the solid granny square. You will do the same when working the sleeves, chest or back.

: Imag.3

: Imag.2

6. Don’t forget to hide all the loose ends as you crochet ( imag. 4). If you leave them for later, it will be a lot more difficult and time consuming.

Imag.4

7. You will crochet 2 big solid Granny squares, one for front, one for back. Each square will have 20 rows. When you finish working one square, you will add 15 rows of double crochet to each square to complete the chest and the back. Then, you will work the sleeves, an edge using the single crochet and, finally, the collar.

Having said that, let’s get to work.

Part 1: How to crochet the two solid Granny squares

Row 1: with first color work 2ch (imag.5); work [ 3dc in 1st ch; 2 h (imag.6,7)] x 4; join with sl st last ch-2 with first dc; cut the thread and fasten off; you will have: 3dc on each side, 12 dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp (which represent the corners of the square)(imag. 8)

: Imag.8

: Imag.7

: Imag.6

: Imag.5

Row 2: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp; work 3ch (this counts as a dc here and throughout); work 1dc in same ch-sp as the 3ch (imag. 9); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row (imag 10); * work [2dc, 2 ch, 2dc] in next ch-2-sp (imag. 11); work 1dc in each of next 3dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch -3 with sl st; cut the thread and fasten off . You will have: 7dc on each side, 28dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.12)

: Imag.12

: Imag.11

: Imag.10

: Imag.9

Row 3: join a new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2-sp as 3ch (imag.13); work 1dc in each of next 7dc from previous row (imag. 14); * work [2dc, 2ch,2dc] in next ch-2sp, (imag. 15) and 1dc in each of the next 7 dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row work: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2ch, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st, cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 11dc on each side, 44dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.(imag. 16)

: Imag.16

: Imag.15

: Imag.14

: Imag.13

Row 4: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 17), and 1dc in each of the 11dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.18), and 1dc in each of next 11dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 15dc on each side, 60dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.19)

: Imag.17

: Imag.18

: Imag.19

Row 5: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch2-sp; work 3ch, 1dc in same ch-2sp as ch-3 (imag. 20), and 1dc in each of the 15dc from previous row; * work [2dc,2ch,2dc] in next ch-2-sp, (imag.21), and 1dc in each of next 15dc from previous row *; repeat from * to * two more times; to finish the row: 2dc in first ch-2-sp, 2c, join with top of first ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have: 19dc on each side, 76dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.22)

: Imag.20

: Imag.21

: Imag.22

The square will increase in size in the ch-2-sp corners which each row. Each side of the square will have 4 extra dc (16dc in total on each row). Following this principle and the instructions from the previous rows, please work the next 15 rows. To give you extra help, will count the number of dc for each row.

Row 6: you will have: 23dc on each side, 92dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 7: 27dc on each side, 108dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 8: 31dc on each side, 124dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 9: 35dc on each side, 140dc in total, 4ch-2-sp.

Row 10: 39dc on each side, 156dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag. 23)

Imag.23

Row 11: 43dc on each side, 172dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 12: 47dc on each side, 188dc in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 13: 51dc on each side, 204 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 14: 55dc on each side, 220 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 15: 59dc on each side, 236 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 16: 63dc on each side, 252 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 17: 67dc on each side, 268 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 18: 71dc on each side, 284 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 19: 75dc on each side, 300 in total, 4 ch-2-sp.

Row 20: 79dc on each side, 316 in total, 4 ch-2-sp. (imag.24)

Imag.24

Part 2: How to crochet the chest and the back

The pattern is the same for both chest and back. You work the rows horizontically on either side of the squares.

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any of the 4 ch-2-sp ; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout)(imag. 25); work 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row of the square, 1dc in next ch-2-sp; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag.26,27)

: Imag.25

: Imag.26

: Imag.27

Rows 2-15: join new color with sl st in last dc from previous row; work 3c, and 1dc in each of the next dc from previous row; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 81dc in total. (imag. 28, 29)

: Imag.28

: Imag.29

Part 3: How to join the front and the back

Join the two sides of the sweater, front and back, with sl st. Insert crochet hook in any ch-2-sp from opposite side of the one you worked the 15 rows, simultaneously in both squares and start to sl st. Insert hook in next dc, simultaneously in both squares and sl st. Repeat until end of rows. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag 30)

Imag.30

Part 4: How to join the shoulders

Join the shoulders the same as the front and back, with sl st. Don’t forget to leave enough space for the neck. (imag. 31)
At this point, your project will look like a vest.

Imag.31

Part 5: How to crochet the sleeves

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc in the space designed for the sleeve; work 3ch (this counts as 1dc here and throughout), and 1dc in same dc as ch-3; work 2dc on the horizontal side of each dc in the sleeve space until you finish; join last dc with top of beg. ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 60dc in total ( imag. 32)

Imag.32

Rows 2-35: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 3ch, and 1dc in each of next 59dc from previous row; join last dc with top beg ch-3 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. There will be 60dc in total (imag. 33).

Imag.33

Part 6: How to work the edges

You will need the 4mm crochet hook. You will use single crochet stitches and work in circle.

a)The edge at the bottom of squares:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any ch-2-sp from bottom side of the Granny square; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 79dc from the bottom side of square1; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; 1sc in next 79dc from bottom side of square2; 1sc in next ch-2-sp; join with first sc with sl st; cut and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag 34, 35)

: Imag.34

: Imag.35

Rows2-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; work 1sc in each 161sc from previous row; join with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 162sc in total. (imag.36)

Imag.36

b)The sleeve edge:

Row 1: join new color with sl st in any dc from previous row; work 1ch; insert hook in same space as ch-1 and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all the 3 loops on the hook (imag. 37, 38); * insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next dc from previous row and pull out a loop; yarn over hook once and pull out through all 3 loops on the hook (imag. 39,40) *; repet from * to *; join last sc with first sc with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 30sc in total. (imag. 41)

: Imag.37

: Imag.38

: Imag.39

: Imag.40

: Imag.41

Row 2: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop; insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops on the hook; * insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop, insert hook in next sc from previous row and pull out a loop through all 3 loops *; repeat from * to *; join with first ch-1 with sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off. You will have 20 sc in total.

Rows 3-5: join new color with sl st in any sc from previous row; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 19sc in each of the next 20sc from previous row; join with sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and afsten off. You will have 20sc in total. (imag.42)

Imag.42

Part 7: How to work the collar

Join desired color with sl st in any of dc from within the collar space; work 1ch, 1sc in same space as ch-1, and 1sc in each of the next dc from previous row within the collar area; join wih sl st with first sc; cut the yarn and fasten off. (imag. 43)

Imag.43

Congratulations! You’ve just finished a super colorful sweater. Enjoy it.

Happy joining colors,

The Coolorburbians.

How to crochet an Urban Slouchy Beanie

Beanies, Hats, Hoodies, Scoodies & Co. No Responses »

Dec 182014

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Winter has come and my mom was looking to make a few beanies for me and my sister and she didn’t know where to start. She used to be an avid crocheter, but since taking a break for a few years, she doesn’t remember patterns and things like that. I remembered I had written a pattern on how to crochet an urban slouchy beanie last year, but never got around to write then down on the website, so I told my mom to start with this beanie first.

The beanie will fit most adult sizes. Our beanie is 29cm long (approx. 11,4″) and 23cm wide (approx. 9″). We don’t know the measurements of the beanie for a child.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain;
ch- – refers to chain previously made;
sc – single crochet;
dc – double crochet;
sl st – slip stitch;
st(s) – stitch(es)

Level: beginner – intermediate .

Needed time: 3-6 hours.

There are a few tips I’d like to share with you before you begin your beanie.

The beanie should look like the ones in the images below.

1. You will need a small amount of yarn to crochet the beanie. You can use up to 5 colors, just like my mom did. We will name these colors A, B, C, D and E. The yarn can be leftovers from your previous crochet projects. Mom used approximately 30 g (approx. 1 oz) for each ball of yarn. So approx. 150 g (~ 5 oz) in total.

2. The texture of the yarn is very important. I mean, getting the right type of yarn is imperative. For this beanie you will need light yarn which you can also find under the name DK and worsted yarn. Mom tried using fine yarn and the beanie was far too slouchy. If you use thicker yarn, the beanie will be too tight and not slouchy enough.

3. You will need a 4mm and a 5mm crochet hook and a pair of scissors. Rounds 1-20 will be completed using the 5mm crochet hook. Rounds 21-30 will be completed using the 4mm crochet hook.

All this materials are shown in image 1:

How to crochet an urban slouchy beanie, written instructions

Image 1

4. You need to know how to crochet the single crochet stitch, the double crochet stitch and how to slip stitch. Try crocheting these stitches a little tighter and even. Otherwise, the beanie will look too airy.

5. A lot of colors will be changed. A new color will be attached to the crochet hook through a slipknot (image 2) and then attached to the beanie with a slip stitch (image 3). There will be a lot of loose ends. Do not leave them out. Sewing loose ends is more difficult, I believe. Conceal these loose ends while crocheting (image 4).

: Image 2

: Image 3

: Image 4

Let’s begin.

Round 1: use the 5mm crochet hook; start with color A; ch2; work 12dc in 2nd ch from the hook; join last dc with first dc with a sl st (12 sts). (Images 5 to 8).

: Image 5

: Image 6

: Image 7

: Image 8

Round 2: ch3 (counts as a dc here and throughout); 1dc in the same st as ch-3 (image 9); 2dc in each st around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (24 sts).(image 10)

: Image 9

: Image 10

Round 3: attach color B with a sl st in any st from previous round (tip: does not need to be on top of the beginning ch-3 from previous round); ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 2 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 2dc * ; (image 11) repeat from * to * ; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (32 sts). (image 12).

: Image 11

: Image 12

Round 4: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 3 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 3dc * ; (image 13) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (40 sts). (image 14)

: Image 13

: Image 14

Round 5: attach color C in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 4 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 4dc * ; (image 15) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (48 sts). (image 16)

: Image 15

: Image 16

Round 6: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 5 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 5dc * ; (image 17) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (56 sts). (image 18)

: Image 17

: Image 18

Round 7: attach color D in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 6 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 6dc * ; (image 19) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (64 sts). (image 20)

: Image 19

: Image 20

Round 8: ch3; 1dc in same st as ch-3; 1dc in each of next 7 sts from previous round; * 2dc in next dc; 1dc in each of next 7dc * ; (image 21) repeat from * to * around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (72 sts). (image 22)

: Image 21

: Image 22

Round 9: attach color E in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch3; 1dc in next st; 1dc in each dc around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st (72 sts). (image 23)

Image 23

Round 10: ch3; 1dc in next st; 1dc in each st around; join last dc with top of beginning ch-3 with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (72 sts). (image 24)

Image 24

Rounds 11-20: repeat rounds 9, 10 alternating between colors A, B, C, D and E (72 sts on each round). Image 25 will show you 20 completed rounds.

Image 25

Round 21: switch to the 4mm crochet hook; attach color A in any st from previous round with a sl st; ch1; 1sc in same st as ch-1; (image 26) 1sc in next st; 1sc in each st from previous round; join last sc with first sc with a sl st (72 sts). (image 27)

: Image 26

: Image 27

Round 22: ch1; 1sc in same st as ch-1; 1sc in next st; 1sc in each of next sts around ; join last sc with first sc with a sl st; cut the yarn and fasten off (72 sts).

Round 23-30: repeat rounds 21, 22 alternating between colors B, C, D, E (72 sts on each round). (image 28)

Image 28

Cut last color and fasten off. Conceal the loose end around the last round with sl st (image 29).

Image 29

That’s all, folks!

I hope your urban slouchy beanie looks wonderful on you. If you wish to share photos of your finished beanie, you can do so on our Facebook wall that you can find in the right sidebar.

Happy slouching,
The Coolorburbians.

How to crochet the Moss Stitch

Fancy Stitches 13 Responses »

Dec 152014

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

Today’s written instructions will show you how to crochet the Moss Stitch. It is a fancy stitch that looks complicated, making you wonder: “How do you do this?” In reality, it is a very simple stitch and to make it, you will only need to know how to slip stitch and how to make half double crochet stitches. In combination, the two stitches will look like a bobble where the yarn will lay across the bobble on the diagonal.

Let’s get going.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch;

hdc – half double crochet;

Level: beginner – intermediate.

Tips:

The moss stitch will look more emphasized, when using a bulkier and junkier yarn and a bigger sized crochet hook (7mm and above).
When finishing a project using the moss stitch, the last row should end with single crochet stitches in order to look even with the beginning of the crochet project.

Make a loose chain from a multiple of 2, plus 1 extra chain to complete the pattern.

Row 1: work 1 sl st in the next ch from the hook; * 1hdc in next ch from the foundation ch; 1 sl st in next ch * ; repeat from * to * ; ch1 to turn.

Row 2: work 1hdc in 1st sl st; * 1 sl st in next 1hdc; 1hdc in next 1 sl st * ; repeat from * to * ; ch1 to turn.

Row 3: work 1 sl st in 1st 1hdc form previous row; * 1hdc in next 1 sl st; 1 sl st in next 1hdc * ; repeat from * to * ; CH1 to turn.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 to compete the pattern.

Isn’t this very easy? Don’t be confused by the formula “1SLST…1HDC…”. The secret of this stitch is to alternate the two techniques on each row. What I mean is, you will need to work a slip stitch on top of the half double crochet stitch, and a half double crochet stitch on top of a slip stitch from the previous row.

I hope these written instructions will help you learn the moss stitch.

As usual, if you prefer a video tutorial instead, you can watch the one below that will show you how to crochet the moss stitch. However, the video does not tell you to make a foundation chain from multiples of 2 + 1, which is something I added in the written instructions to make the edges look more even.

The Moss Stitch – part 1:

The Moss Stitch – part 2:

The third video will show you a completed blanket I made two years ago using the moss stitch, ten skeins of bulky yarn in shades of white and and light green and a 9mm crochet hook.

Crocheted blanket using the moss stitch:

Happy mossing,
The Coolorburbians.

How to crochet The Slip Stitch

Beginners Stitches No Responses »

Dec 092014

Dear Artsy Craftsy Friends,

In today’s photo tutorial, we will show you how to crochet the slip stitch. It is a very easy technique in crocheting and it is very useful when finishing a crochet project, or joining parts of a crochet project, like granny squares for a blanket, for example. We could say, it is the equivalent of sewing in the art of crocheting. The slip stitch is abbreviated SL ST in crochet patterns. Image 1 will show you that the slip stitch is used to join the beginning and the end of a small foundation chain in a small ring, in case of a crochet circle or a traditional granny square. Image 2 will show you that the slip stitch is used to join the end with the beginning of a round in case of a circle; image 3 will show you that this stitch is also used to finish a traditional granny square. The examples can continue.

: Image 1

: Image 2

: Image 3

Let’s get on with the instructions for the slip stitch.

For practice purposes, make a small foundation chain of 10 chains (image 4) – we might have added a few extra chains.

Image 4

Insert your crochet hook in the first chain from the hook (image 5). YO (yarn over) hook once (image 6). Pull the yarn through the chain (image 7). You will have two loops on the hook. Continue pulling the yarn through the first loop on the hook to form a first slip stitch (image 8).

: Image 5

: Image 6

: Image 7

: Image 8

Let’s make a second slip stitch, using the same steps mentioned above. * Insert your hook in the next chain of the foundation chain (image 9). YO hook once (image 10) and pull the yarn through the chain (image 11). Continue pulling the yarn to form a second slip stitch (image 12) *.

: Image 9

: Image 10

: Image 11

: Image 12

Now, all you have to do to crochet more slip stitches is to repeat the instructions between * and * . Images 13 to 16 will show you how to crochet a third slip stitch. Image 17 shows a complete row of slip stitches.